GS1000 maintenance and idle questions...

[KGB]

WOW sounds like a beauty, too bad about how your got it.


I have a 1980 GS1000S. I gought it about 15 years ago from the original owner. He put it away correctly. But it was in storage for about 5 years.
The valve guides were dry and allowing oil to blow by. Not really bad, but enough so it was noticeable. Anyway I did a complete rebuild about 7 years ago. The only thing left from the factory is the crank and cams. It's been bored 20thousand. Yes I rode it for quite a few years. I also had the carbs rebuilt.
The jets were $200.
These bike are cold blooded, be patient.

In the last couple of years, normal maintenance. Lots of oil changes, about 2K-3K, new clutch, Barnett, and gaskets. I just had ALL the gaskets replaced 3 weeks ago.
Even after the clutch replacement, yes, it rumbles from the clutch. I did springs,steel plates and fiber plates. Still makes some noise, only when cold or very hot.
The cam chains are easy to adjust, but if they need replacement, it can be expensive.
As for tires, I have a set of Dunlop GT501 on my bike. I really like them.
Good grip, even in wet/rain. I replaced my stock brake lines years ago with braided steel lines. Huge difference. It won't stand on it's nose, but it stops a heck of a lot better. I have Progressive shocks and fork springs.
I also have a steering damper and fork brace. It still wobbles over 110mph.
You said it had a choke on the dash and it is actually on the carbs.
Was the dash replaced?
My advice, give it a good once over. Replace ALL fluids, get a manual and ride it
There is an incredible amount of information on this site, all of it good.
There is a great group of people here dedicated to keeping these great bike running. Just ask.

Ride safe
Keith

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The bike does have stock exhaust and airbox (no filter...), so I figured the carbs had never been messed with. That coating over the pilot and air screws sounds like what I saw. I didn't even think about measuring the float level when I had the carbs open.

The bike didn't have an air filter when I got it. On a stock motor is there any advantage to a K&N filter over a stock one? I wouldnt think it would make a performance difference, and probably costs 3-4x as much.. the biggest mod this bike will ever see will be a 4-1 pipe and jet kit.

Is the ignition timing adjustable on this bike? I thought most bikes had fixed ignition timing, but again I've never owned a bike this old.

Unfortunately I do not have a manual for the bike. I've usually never been satisfied with Clymer manuals and the other aftermarket ones.. The factory manuals are always the best, but they're never cheap.

Thanks.

Jeff

With NO air filter you will run lean and be sucking in dirty air. Years ago when I had the stock box, I bought a K&N filter. It was about $5 more than stock and is washable and should last the life of the bike. The stock paper filter is a throw-away. Too bad I don't still have it, I'd give it to you. Also,I'm just curious, is the top metal cover still on the box? If not, this will make it run even leaner. ALL ignitions are adjustable. If you still have a points ignition I would swap it for a Dyna 'S' electronic.(about $125) If the points/condenser are in good shape, you can stay with them to save money. I got rid of my points when the bike was new, so I have no experience adjusting them. Someone here can probably explain it for you. If not, I'll look it up when I get back from vacation and send you the adjustment procedure if you still can use it.

[Anonymous]

KGB, fortunately my bike was not truely stored, it was started and ridden around the block every coulple months. It seems to have kept everything in pretty good condition.

Keith, I'll have to check about the air box cover, but I dont remember taking it off or on, so its probably not there. Ill have to look into the electronic ignition, I have never been a fan of points.

Thanks

Jeff

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, I'm still here. Turns out we will be going on vacation Monday AM. It's very probable that our discussion has revealed why your bike is lean and cold-blooded. With no air filter alone, it will run leaner. And I know because of past experimenting, if the air box lid is not on it will run even leaner. So before you do anything else, get an air filter and if you cannot find a lid, you can make something that will go over the opening that will be reasonably air tight. After the air box fix, make sure the timing is correct. Then sincing the carbs is still a good idea. At start up it will now run richer than before, causing the idle to drop, so you will have to adjust the idle. After all this the bike should run and idle right.

[Anonymous]

I ordered a foam cleanable filter from J.C.Whitney a couple years ago that replaces the stock one in the air box. Just have to wash it in some gasoline and oil it up and it will go forever. One time purchase.

[Anonymous]

ign timing is adjustable check with good old fashion timing light
ozman

[Anonymous]

Ok, I'll look into getting an air filter today. I have a feeling it is not something my local dealer will have in stock, but who knows..

So since the ignition timing is adjustable, is their any performance increase from advancing the timing past the factory setting, asuming it does not detonate?

I posted a couple pics of my bike in the 1979 gallery a few days ago, but I guess they have not been approved yet.

Thanks

Jeff

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Ok, I'll look into getting an air filter today. I have a feeling it is not something my local dealer will have in stock, but who knows..

So since the ignition timing is adjustable, is their any performance increase from advancing the timing past the factory setting, asuming it does not detonate?

I posted a couple pics of my bike in the 1979 gallery a few days ago, but I guess they have not been approved yet.

Thanks

Jeff

I always preferred not to play around with timing. I set mine to what the factory manual says. And besides the air filter, if you cannot find the air box lid you need to make something to cover the top, or it will run too lean. Even a couple strips of duct tape will work. Cheap fix, you won't see it under the seat and you can easily get to the filter. At least until you can find a replacement lid.

[Anonymous]

stupid question time...

Ok I got my air filter in. I borrowed the carb-sync adapters from my friend. I went to find the adjustment screws before I started hooking the gauge up, and I cant find them! Yeah, I feel pretty dumb saying that.. On most of the bikes I have worked on, the carb-sync adjustment screws are pretty easialy accessible and easy to find, usually right on the linkage that connects the carbs to each other. I even got out a small mirror and looked from the bottom, but I didnt see anything. I figure I'm missing something really simple...

This is one of those times when buying a service manual sounds like it would have been a good investment. :roll:

My second question is about the vacuum nipples on the top of the carbs. The far left carb does not have one, the second from left and the far right have vent tubes running to nothing.. (?) And the second from the right has a vacuum line running to the petcock. I asume this is the vacuum line that opens the petcock when the bike is running. So, if that is the case, why do two of the carbs have the same nipple aparently not connected to a vacuum source, and one of them has nothing?


Thanks

Jeff

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: stupid question time...

Ok I got my air filter in. I borrowed the carb-sync adapters from my friend. I went to find the adjustment screws before I started hooking the gauge up, and I cant find them! Yeah, I feel pretty dumb saying that.. On most of the bikes I have worked on, the carb-sync adjustment screws are pretty easialy accessible and easy to find, usually right on the linkage that connects the carbs to each other. I even got out a small mirror and looked from the bottom, but I didnt see anything. I figure I'm missing something really simple...

This is one of those times when buying a service manual sounds like it would have been a good investment. :roll:

My second question is about the vacuum nipples on the top of the carbs. The far left carb does not have one, the second from left and the far right have vent tubes running to nothing.. (?) And the second from the right has a vacuum line running to the petcock. I asume this is the vacuum line that opens the petcock when the bike is running. So, if that is the case, why do two of the carbs have the same nipple aparently not connected to a vacuum source, and one of them has nothing?


Thanks
Jeff

The screw to sinc each carb is under the cap on top the carb, held by 3 screws.Directly above the slide you will see a flat head screw held by a nut.Loosen the nut enough to allow turning the screw.You can use a box or open end wrench and a good fitting screwdriver.Turn the screw to adjust that carbs vacuum,it does'nt take much.Then tighten the nut WITHOUT allowing the screw to move at all.Final torque on these nuts is only 3 ft/lb.Sometimes adjusting 1 carb will change the level of another carb, it takes practice.It is much quicker and easier if you do a good 'manual' sinc first.It can be hard to set all 4 equal at idle,but it's more important to get them close at around 3,500-4,000 rpm.Don't rev' it higher than this and NEVER let the throtttle return quickly,this can suck the mercury into the engine.Before sincing,or hooking up anything,warm up the engine first. While sincing,place a fan or 2 to cool the motor.I place my tank on my workmate bench and use extended fuel/vacuum lines.As for your vacuum nipple,etc,questions:carbs 2 and 4 have a vent tube that vents the floatbowls.The tube to #2 vents #1 and 2 carbs, the tube to #4 vents 3 and 4 carbs. These just go under the seat and should not be blocked or allowed to get pinched or else fuel starvation will occur.Carb 3 has an identical looking nipple but it is a vacuum for the petcock. The place you hook up the threaded adapters in your sinc kit is on the manifolds of the head.Just in front of the carb rubber intakes. The 4 allen heads with a small copper washer are removed and you install the threaded adapters in their place.Your adapters should also have an o-ring or rubber washer to avoid air leaks.Place a towel under the carbs so you don't drop and lose the little screws or copper washers. Don't over tighten them either! Hope this covers your questions. You really should get a manual. Factory, if you can find one.

[Anonymous]

with the clutch basket rattle at idle we drill out the rivets replace the damper springs with heavier ones and re rivet welding is ok for racing but tends to make the clutch a bit harsh for average riding
ozman