Need backup on my Stator/RR troubleshooting logic..

[Chris: GS750EZ]

Greetings!
I think that I have worked out the failures in my charging system.. but I would like others to confirm that I am not delusional.
I got the bike out of storage after 2 years...
The battery was stone cold dead. It was bone dry.
I got a new battery and charged it.
I got it to run, but very rough and rugged. I know that I have other work to do later.. valves and carbs.
I went around the block, and got stranded 1/2 mile away. (sweat, puff, sweat, puff) It bogged out, I started it again, got a little further, and died for good.
Today, I put some meters and an oscilloscope on it and let it run.
Sure enough, it charged at first, but as it got hot, it started to stumble and stall.
The charge on the battery was dropping into the 12V range... clearly it was not charging at that point.
I poked around, and found that the 4 pin connector to the stator was crispy burnt. And it is one that I had replaced a few years ago when I was trying to get it working!
I replaced the connector and recharged the battery.
It runs again, but with a charge voltage as high as 17.5V!!
So I tested the stator open circuit.. 60+Vac at 4K. It is good.
So I concluded that the R/R is failed, in a short circuit.. and also, that the very high voltage was pushing very high currents into the battery.. thus the old battery that is bone dry! It boiled off the juice! Also, the high currents burnt the connector, so that by the time I got to it, it seemed like a low charge issue after heating up.
I plan to get my hands on a new R/R.. I see the one from ElectroSport, but $100 is a little rich for my blood.. is there an alternative?

Footnote.. I design circuits.. if I were to design one, is it a constant voltage regulation, and does it provide some sort of current limit? How hard could it be.

Thanks much,
Chris~

[Dave8338]

It sounds like you have a good fix on the problem. Use the Honda R/R with the sense wire (tied into an ignition switched wire Brake or Tail light) and you'll be set.

[Rodman]

chris
17.5 is just a tad too hi i would think and yeah the reason the old batt was dry , i would suggest a new r/r
now as far as constant regulator im not sure but i do know that it does change with rpm and load . meaning its go from 13.5 to almost 16 on my gs
but take into account my bike being a 77 has 2 units a rectifier and a regulator . hope i helped a little at least .
Rodman/jugsnlugsmotorsports

[Rodman]

dave
now youve schooled me lol now what do i do when mine goes bad lol i got a reg and rec in 2 units lol

[Dave8338]

dave
now youve schooled me lol now what do i do when mine goes bad lol i got a reg and rec in 2 units lol

Same thing applies with a slight harness mod. Just that simple!

[posplayr]

You will find that the FH012AA is a FET based regulator with improved efficiency and regulation that well exceeds the older SCR shunt technology. It is still a shunt regulator and so proper connection and grounding and required.


Quote:
Since someone seems to have put their mind to
doing a better design with the Shindengen FH012AA , I'm hoping they also improved on the regulation as well.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=965431&postcount=33

Additional links you might find interesting


High Performance Power and Grounding

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140109

Ground Loops

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139115

Good Luck, 17V is way overcharging.

before you disturb your connections could you measure the following at idle and 4000 RPM?

R/R (+) to Battery (+) (including the polarity of the voltage; current should flow from R/R(+) to the Battery (+)
R/R (-) to Battery (-) (including the polarity of the voltage; current should flow back to the R/R (-) )

I have had this over charging situation in the past, but solved it with proper grounding and connections. Using teh schematic in "ground loops", I can not develop a failure mechanism for overcharging unless it is something funny inside of the R/R.

Those measurements might help explain what is going on.

Also what is the voltage across the battery at idle and 4000 RPM.

TIA

Pos

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Chris: GS750EZ,

Send a PM to member duaneage to see if he has any of our favorite Honda r/r units for sale. He tests them and modifies them so they are a bolt-on replacement. They're good units for a good price (~$40). One more thing, clean every electrical connection and ground on the entire bike including the fusebox and ignition switch. You'll be glad you did.

Here is your "mega-welcome". Please take note of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jjmaag]

Keep in mind, any loose or corroded connections in the charging system can cause overheating and burned connectors. Check for voltage drops in the system and good grounds.

[Ant]

r/r

I purchased a r/r from one of our members here on this site for $40.00 delivered. Look him up. His name is (Duaneage).

[Ant]

Forgot photo

Look him up. R/R works great. (Duaneage)

[Chris: GS750EZ]

Thanks for the welcome, I am all over this good stuff..

Much thanks for the welcome.. I had already poked around all over, and on your web site too. That is where I stumbled onto the ref to Barr's o-ring kits, which I promptly bought one of.
My mother didn't has no fool.. I recognize high value info when I see it. I am grateful for the GS community already.

I will contact duaneage.. sounds like a great way to go.

On the other point, cleaning every contact, I had already discovered that. 8V on my ignition module at one point! I even had to replace the fuse panel, as the clips were all corroded. I bypassed that foolish long loop that one leg of the stator goes through, the one with white/green and white/red. I feel that the wiring is pretty sound at this point.. other than the RR melting stuff.

Thanks,
Chris~

"Send a PM to member duaneage to see if he has any of our favorite Honda r/r units.....
Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website...."