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Normal spark plug wire cap disassembly? Pics!

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    Normal spark plug wire cap disassembly? Pics!

    Working on cleaning all my connections when I noticed the plug wires where not in good shape. As you'll see by the pictures there are some large cracks, more than likely because the wires are the originals, I believe. As I moved them a little they basically popped right off with very little effort. I know I'll need to order new ones probably from Z1 but should the wire look like it does? How do I attach new ones? Thanks

    #2
    one of the cracks

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      #3
      and another

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        #4
        When you get your new caps, clip about 1/2" off the ends of the wires so that you have nice shiny wire showing that is flush with the end of the insulation.

        The new caps (I assume you're getting NGK caps) will have little screws in the ends that you simply push into the end of the wires, then twist on until they're good and tight.
        sigpic

        SUZUKI:
        1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
        HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
        KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
        YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

        Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

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          #5
          Do I only cut the black outer coating? I will be getting NGK caps. Do the numbers match from my originals?

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            #6
            Ok, so I looked and the cracks should be there because that section is a removable boot. I know I'll need to seal it when I'm all done. The rest of the caps look good so I'm going to reassemble by cutting a little off the wire for better connection. There is a, for the lack of a better word, pin in side the cap. Do I cut the wire back a half inch and then just push the cap back on or do I just cut the insulation and leave 1/2 in. of wire out?

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              #7
              Originally posted by Roemy24 View Post
              Ok, so I looked and the cracks should be there because that section is a removable boot. I know I'll need to seal it when I'm all done. The rest of the caps look good so I'm going to reassemble by cutting a little off the wire for better connection. There is a, for the lack of a better word, pin in side the cap. Do I cut the wire back a half inch and then just push the cap back on or do I just cut the insulation and leave 1/2 in. of wire out?
              Snip hte entire wire so that internal copper and the external insulation are flush with each other.
              sigpic

              SUZUKI:
              1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
              HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
              KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
              YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

              Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

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                #8
                The caps screw on like a...screw. Snip off just enough to get clean wire and then screw the cap back on.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                  #9
                  ok, then push or screw on? It looks like the "pin" in the cap has threads on it. I appreciate the help your giving!

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                    #10
                    You beat me to my question! ha. Thanks.

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                      #11
                      just did it today!

                      the NGK resister cap numbers from z1 enterprises are ';
                      TU38-1006 and TU38-1008 .$ 3.10 EACH you will need two of each.Just did mine in a couple of minutes and no strain to the wound , well not much. Cut a small amount of the wire back ,I cut an inch off one to get past a crack in the insulation , slide the supplied rubber cap on , peel back the outside so it will easier roll onto the resister cap, SCREW the resister caps into the wire clockwise, roll the rubber over the end and PESTO looks good .Now if I can find someone to put the gas tank back on it I'm done. Five pound weight restriction is still in effect.Wish I had drained the tank first

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