So we have the black and white wires coming from the Dyna S; How do we connect it to the wires that were connected to the ignitor? The ignitor has the two wires from old ignition going in and then four going out (Orange/White, White, Black/white, Black Yellow). So after we disconnect the ignitor, we have this connector.
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Dyna s wiring on 81 GS850(how to by pass ignitor)
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nisom512
Dyna s wiring on 81 GS850(how to by pass ignitor)
Yonker and I are here and cant figure out how to bypass ignitor. We wired every thing else up. we wired the red wire from the dyna to the brake light (12 volt switched).
So we have the black and white wires coming from the Dyna S; How do we connect it to the wires that were connected to the ignitor? The ignitor has the two wires from old ignition going in and then four going out (Orange/White, White, Black/white, Black Yellow). So after we disconnect the ignitor, we have this connector.
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nisom512
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SqDancerLynn1
You don't use the stock igniter, The Dyna S is a self contained unit. 12V power & connections to the coils. I don't have a diagram, Should be a wiring diagram at the dyna web site
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All the connections you been are on that plug.
1.) Hook the Dyna Power input (red?)to the orange/white on the connector. That is the same hot wire that went through the ignition switch and kill switch to power the coils and the ignitor. Don't use the tail light switched power.
2.) hook the Dyna rear mag pickup white wire to the 1-4 coil wire (-) which is also white
3.) hook the Dyna front mag pickup black wire to the 2-3 coil wire (-) which is the black/yellow
A better thing to do is to complete the coil relay mod at the same time. I have outlined that here
Last edited by posplayr; 05-30-2009, 03:20 PM.
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Wow,
I just read those Dyna S direction and they are crap. There are only three connections required by the Dyna S switched +12V and the 1-4 and 2-3 coild (-). All three are avaliable on the remaining harness plug after removal of the ignitor. At the very least, cut the old 4 contact connector off of the ignitor, solder the Dyna-S wires to the correct contacts and plug it back into the harness. That is it. Nothing else required.
Pos
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nisom512
Originally posted by posplayr View PostWow,
I just read those Dyna S direction and they are crap. There are only three connections required by the Dyna S switched +12V and the 1-4 and 2-3 coild (-). All three are avaliable on the remaining harness plug after removal of the ignitor. At the very least, cut the old 4 contact connector off of the ignitor, solder the Dyna-S wires to the correct contacts and plug it back into the harness. That is it. Nothing else required.
Pos
yeah we called Ed and asked him and he helped us out(thanks man) that is what we were thinking when we first looked at it that maybe the connector plug would have to be cut off but didnt know for sure. I even made the coment to ed about I should just do the relay mod right now. so I think i am gunna but thank you for the help and yeah I didnt get directions for installation with it .that or I couldnt seem to find them.
but it works now. the part i dont get is I think I should just run the red from the ignition to the relay on the mod? then Im good as gold. I think.
Jake
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but it works now. the part i dont get is I think I should just run the red from the ignition to the relay on the mod? then Im good as gold. I think.
If you have a Honda R/R the sense wire can be connected to the same relay output.
In the link provided I detailed a low impact way of doing the above.
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nisom512
Originally posted by posplayr View PostNot quite, the main reason to do the coil relay mod is to power the coils. Since the ignitor is the only other item on the ignition circuit, powering the Dyna with the coils is a good idea.
If you have a Honda R/R the sense wire can be connected to the same relay output.
In the link provided I detailed a low impact way of doing the above.
but I cant seem to get the bike to rev over 4-5k or at WOT I havent realy dont the timing yet I have a gun but dont know how to set the ignition. Ryonker was showing me but I didnt really get the gist of it fully.
Jake
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Put the timing light on the #4 wire. Start the bike and at idle you should line up on the F1&4 mark. When you throttle up over 2.5RPMs the next line should line up for the advance.
By turning the ignition plate you can get them lined up.
Easy peasy1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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nisom512
k sweet thanks
but hey what should I do if cyclanders 2 and 4 arnt fireing? I pull the plug wires on both and the engine doesnt even change. could it be the coils or what? they are new coils.
I will try the coil relay mod and see if that helps but if not I am stuck again. so if you have any other things for me to try that would be sweet.
Thank you
Jake
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a.) did you confirm that there is 12V on each coil on the orange/white wire?
b.) if so then I would disconnect the ground side and make sure that you have continuity to the Dyna on the other two legs (checking the former wiring).
c.) Not sure but you should also be able to see the negative side of the coils go from 12V down to 1 volt or so. This up and down is what fired the plugs.
If first two check out and the last not then the dyna is bad probably bad.
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nisom512
Originally posted by posplayr View Posta.) did you confirm that there is 12V on each coil on the orange/white wire?
b.) if so then I would disconnect the ground side and make sure that you have continuity to the Dyna on the other two legs (checking the former wiring).
c.) Not sure but you should also be able to see the negative side of the coils go from 12V down to 1 volt or so. This up and down is what fired the plugs.
If first two check out and the last not then the dyna is bad probably bad.
I will check these things tho. I dont understand B). what do you mean negative side of the coils? there are only 4 places where you can plug wires into the coils the signal wire and the power wire I dont see a ground wire, and the plug wires of coarse.
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B.) was to part of insuring that you wired the dyna correctly.
The negative side is the signal side that is controlled by the breaker plate and in this case the Dyna-S. (white and black/yellow at the coils)
If the problem existed before then it is not likely the Dyna.
This thread is getting confusing because you originally asked how to install a Dyna-S. The recommendatiosn were related to that and in diagnosing what I presumed was a bad install or bad parts.
Now you are trying to diagnose what the original problems was that cause you to change to the Dyna-S which is different. At this point I would confirm Test A and test C and go from there.
Pulling wires or is a way to diagnose, but in this case it is not tellng me much.
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Test the Dyna first and then the coil. With the Dyna power line hooked up you should get the up and down voltage on each line to the coils as Posplayr has stated. Now hook the coils up and check the spark on the spark plugs by grounding a spark plug to the head and crank. If one coil fires and not the other swap the Dyna coil leads and see if the other coil fires. If not you either have a bad coil or it's not getting power from the orange and white wire.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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nisom512
no it is wired up right I did your test. is there any thing else that I could do? or are the coils bad.
Jake
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