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    #16
    Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
    Quick question. Where do I get a syringe from?
    A farm store would have them with the veterinary supplies. The needles are controlled items in some places, but you don't need a needle for this particular use.

    You can also find a nice large syringe just about anywhere that's intended for measuring 2-cycle oil. Mine is called a "Mix Master". It'll be with the gas cans.
    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
    Eat more venison.

    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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    Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

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      #17
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      This issue comes up all the time here. The master needs to be primed. One easy way is to use a long tube on one of the bleeding nipples and suck on it with your mouth. Clear tubing is recommended so you can see when fluid is coming through. Once the master is primed it will start pumping so you can bleed the brakes.
      That's all I read there...

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        #18


        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        This issue comes up all the time here. The master needs to be primed. One easy way is to use a long tube on one of the bleeding nipples and suck on it with your mouth. Clear tubing is recommended so you can see when fluid is coming through. Once the master is primed it will start pumping so you can bleed the brakes.

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          #19


          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          This issue comes up all the time here. The master needs to be primed. One easy way is to use a long tube on one of the bleeding nipples and suck on it with your mouth. Clear tubing is recommended so you can see when fluid is coming through. Once the master is primed it will start pumping so you can bleed the brakes.

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            #20
            You get a big syringe from a medical supply store. Cost me $2.00 each. Use one to push new fluid through the nipple on the caliper, into your brake lines-use the other to suck the old (maybe non existent fluid in your case) fluid out of the applicable master cylinder.

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              #21
              I always use a new copper washers on the banjos and tighten to 18 ft lbs. Haven't had a leak yet.
              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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                #22
                boy that went off topic badly

                you all need to go to confession

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                  #23
                  You guys crack me up. Thanks.

                  Guess I need to be more careful with my choice of words.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    You guys crack me up. Thanks.

                    Guess I need to be more careful with my choice of words.
                    Please don't. Gives us fodder and a chance to brighten your day.

                    Back on topic though, I opened my bleeder valve a little bit when the caliper was off, just to check fluids and see if I could get more clearance between the pads and the rotor. The fluid that came out looked like crap. It was kind of brownish. I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to look like that. I doubt it's been changed before and if it has, it's been a very long time. Chock this up for another thing to do.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by RogueZuki View Post
                      Please don't. Gives us fodder and a chance to brighten your day.

                      Back on topic though, I opened my bleeder valve a little bit when the caliper was off, just to check fluids and see if I could get more clearance between the pads and the rotor. The fluid that came out looked like crap. It was kind of brownish. I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to look like that. I doubt it's been changed before and if it has, it's been a very long time. Chock this up for another thing to do.
                      Once the brake fluid gets to that point, the only way to properly clean the system is a full tear down. Replace the rubber brake lines as well since they have scale on the inside and Suzuki recommends replacing them every TWO years anyway (although this recommendation is obviously overly strict).
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #26
                        If your fluid is brown I would highly recommend that you flush the system so that it contains all new fluid...old contaminated fluid is bad stuff. Your brakes will work much better and it really doesn't take much fluid or time.


                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        OSuzuki recommends replacing them every TWO years anyway (although this recommendation is obviously overly strict).
                        Let's see by that recommendation I am roughly 14 brake line changes behind on the 450!

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