Possible Stator Issue

[hmsa42]

Well, after I managed to get the bike all back together, I took it to work and by the time I had managed to get to there and tried to start her up again, the battery was dead. I was thinking stator/R/R issues since I ran into this last year, but it would die at idle and it won't do that now. I ran through the stator papers regardless, and it passes the ohms tests, but the VAC test I'm getting about 3-4V regardless of the RPMs that I push. The kicker to this, is that I replaced the stator last year with the Electrosport stator(R/R as well), and I was having no charging issues at the end of riding season last year. Could there be something else affecting the stator to cause this low voltage output? I wouldn't think that new of a stator would go bad over the winter.

The R/R tested fine, although I was getting readings of 0L for 2 of the 4 tests, but I read on the forum somewhere that that should be fine. It's an '82 GS 750TZ.

[posplayr]

The stator is just wire that was a magnet running passed it. When it gets hot the insulation breaks down and it shorts. At that point it has to be replaced. The only other possibility is that the Permanent magnet on the rotor is not permanent.

Stators and R/R's will fry if there connections to the battery/frame are not good. You can tell the state of the connections by measuring the voltages in Phase A of the diagnosis page.

Once you fry it there is no going back other than to replace it. If you replace it and don't do the connection you will fry it again. The fried stator is normally a symptom not the problem. It is a symptom of bad conenctions.

[hmsa42]

Joy. I'm assuming that the R/R and battery are the main connections to check(which I've done already), but would there be anything else to check to see if it's connecting bad? While I was trying to start it yesterday, I noticed that there was smoke coming from the (-) connection to the deal that fires up the starter(I'm brain dead at the moment), it managed to melt the boot that was covering the connection. I checked it and the nut was loose(apparently I didn't remember to tighten it), I buttoned that up, but just assumed it was a loose connection and sparking was causing the heat to melt the boot. If that had been doing that the entire time would that have been enough to fry the stator?

I'm just afraid if it's a symptom as you say, I don't want to put a new one in untill I know what exactly to check and fix it.

[posplayr]

Joy. I'm assuming that the R/R and battery are the main connections to check(which I've done already), but would there be anything else to check to see if it's connecting bad?

You can measure resistance, but measuring teh voltage at load is sufficent, nessesary and conclusive.

While I was trying to start it yesterday, I noticed that there was smoke coming from the (-) connection to the deal that fires up the starter(I'm brain dead at the moment), it managed to melt the boot that was covering the connection.

I have seen this wire burn before as well. I'm not sure what causes it to burn other than an improper ground.

• battery needs to be well grounded to the frame
• R/R (-) needs to be grounded to the frame (with as short a lead as possible)
• R/R (-) needs to be tied to the battery (-)

Most of the problems are bad connectors, cleaning them is not sufficent you have to measure!!!!! You can clean a spade conenctor all day long but if the crimp is corroded you are not doing anything. Unless you measure you will be blind.

[hmsa42]

Thanks for the info, I wouldn't be surprised if I'm having some issues with grounding, since everything was repainted/powdercoated. I checked the grounds last night and seemed to be alright, but there's one that I changed around. I've ordered a new stator for the time being, but I think this weekend will be a good time to rip it back apart and get everything double checked.

On the piece about the R/R (-) lead to the frame and battery, I have the short lead to the frame, but there's nothing from the R/R to the battery. Is this a mod that I should do?

[tas850g]

If you have 2 ground wires coming from your r/r, one wire goes to a ground on the frame and the other ground wire goes to the (-) side of the battery via ring connector. This 2 wire ground is common when you use a honda r/r. If your r/r is from electrosport and only has 1 ground wire then most people here recommend that ground going to the (-) of your battery instead of your frame.

[hmsa42]

If you have 2 ground wires coming from your r/r, one wire goes to a ground on the frame and the other ground wire goes to the (-) side of the battery via ring connector. This 2 wire ground is common when you use a honda r/r. If your r/r is from electrosport and only has 1 ground wire then most people here recommend that ground going to the (-) of your battery instead of your frame.

Okay, that makes more sense, I take it that they extend the ground wire to the battery? Since right now it's only long enough to the frame(tried running it to the '-' terminal originally).