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Right way to tighten a chain?
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don_gibb6512
I apologize for jumping in to this thread for a reason that has nothing to do with chain tension but please guys, everybody take a breather and relax a bit. I've been on the forums long enough to have seen disputes erupt and then members just disappear and that shouldn't happen. After all, we're all just trying to do the best we can helping out with whatever knowledge we have. Differing ideas arise and that's exactly what's necessary to keep the learning process strong but try not to take things to the personal level. We need to keep as many members around as possible. After all, Suzuki isn't making any more of our old GS bikes.
Thanks for your indulgence.
Don
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Pete Logan
Originally posted by Agemax View Posttrue mate but how you gonna measure the chain tension with the suspension on full compression when its sat in your garage?
Nothing says you have to be on the bike, just the weight. Little bit of lateral thinking
Point 2. Check the slack at several points around the chain. You will find there is a tight spot. That is where you want your 20mm slack. My chain goes from 20mm at the tight spot to 30mm at the loose spot. That's why the manual gives a range.
Point 3. You should only have to do the string or beam alignment trick once (Google it). Once you have verified your swingarm alignment marks, you should be able to rely on them.
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81gs1100
There are alot of ways people set chain tension, and without problem. I just finished Suzuki "FAST" (Suzuki Factory Authorized Training). We had this same topic come up, and was told by the trainers that your Suzuki bike should be resting on the side stand or center stand when setting chain slack. That goes for street bikes as well as dirt bikes. Im not saying that if you don't do it that way your going to have a failure, I was just saying that is how Suzuki reccomends you to adjust it.
Take a look in all your Suzuki manuals. Read what each says about chain adjustment.
Also, "SAG", how you measure your sag, ones way of measuring to anothers can be as much as 10mm difference. Also who rotates the wheel and checks for the tightest area of the chain to set sag? You can set the sag at 25mm, turn the wheel a few times and measure again and have 20mm or 30mm. You should find the tightest part of the chain and set the sag from there.
Of course the suspension sag should be set to the drivers weight, in the seat, in riding position. Then set the comp, and damp to how the rider rides. I completley agree. And when you do set the suspension sag the suspension will be at the same geometry with a 125lb rider or a 225lb rider. So where does the need to adjust the chain to the riders weight come in? So when you're in the shop and you have 6 or so bikes in for service, do you call the riders up and ask if they can come in for 10 minutes so you can adjust thier chain?
Im not saying you have to do it this way. If you have any doubts please reffer to your Suzuki fatory service manual for proper chain sag settings.
You set your chain how you were taught and I will set it how I was taught. And when someone askes me I will tell them the same thing over and over. As Im sure you will, just don't pull the high and mighty card and go on about how you were taught by guys that raced years and years ago. It still don't make it right.
I was taught the way it is reccomended, the way the manufacture says it is to be done.
Does this mean we're not friends anymore? - Doc HolidayLast edited by Guest; 06-15-2009, 07:44 AM.
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3:00 to 6:00
Yeah, Bob, when I looked what I wrote over, I thought about the wording, I almost put in 'down' AND 'forward', but I also thought that someone reading it would assume what I meant (how you spell that word?) included 'down', 'cuz 'up' and 'forward' would loosen the nut-but you're right, I should have been more explicit. BTW, your signature about air compressors is SO right- couldn't live w/out mine.sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
'58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
'67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
'71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
'66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
'73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
'78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
'81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
'81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
'82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current
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How often though?
Originally posted by Agemax View Postthe main point really is not to have it too tight, that leads to all sorts of problems.
also, as previously stated, keep it lubricated
Thanks!Cheers,
Jonah
1979 GS1000 w/h full fairings, 65k, Winter Project
1978 GS550C, 30k
http://1978gs550c.blogspot.com/
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Calvin Blackmore
Originally posted by Joneman View PostHow often should I be lubing my chain though? Totalmotorcycle says to do it after every ride, and my friend says that stupid cause' I will just get oil everywhere and more dirt will get into my chain...
Thanks!
oh my
well start with doing it every ride
then every second ride till you see how long the lube stays and and stays clean for the conditions you ride in
not sure what you buddy means by more oil causing more dirt
if you apply it then use a rag to wipe off excess there should not be a problem
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mistertoadie
as far as alignment goes, I always set it with the marks on the swingarm, then just look down the length of the chain from the top of the rear sprocket, to the top of the front sprocket, (or as far as you can see it) You can see misalignment pretty easily this way. As far as slack, I always assumed that the recommended slack was while the bike was unladen, otherwise there wouldn't really be much need for slack if it was measured under compression. Unless it's a supercross bike that uses up a full foot or more of travel. But I'm just a rider, not a tech.
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Thank you!
Originally posted by Calvin Blackmore View Postoh my
well start with doing it every ride
then every second ride till you see how long the lube stays and and stays clean for the conditions you ride in
not sure what you buddy means by more oil causing more dirt
if you apply it then use a rag to wipe off excess there should not be a problem
Thanks!Cheers,
Jonah
1979 GS1000 w/h full fairings, 65k, Winter Project
1978 GS550C, 30k
http://1978gs550c.blogspot.com/
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