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Reading these plugs, concerns about crud fouling?

  • Thread starter Thread starter fb9
  • Start date Start date
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fb9

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6050 total miles.
Has sat for 4 years with out running.

New B8ES plugs, these now have a total of 15 miles on them.

Gave the bike most of the normal overhaul stuff:
Carbs dipped, o-rings.
Floats levels readjusted (was way bad!)
New intake boots/o-ring, airbox boots.
Valve shims swapped out.
Electrical overhaul on connections, replaced stator & RR.
New Pingle
Sealed airbox, Uni filter

Other info:
VH 4:1 Pipe
Dyna coils/wires

STOCK: 115 Mains / 40 Pilots
CURRENT: 120 Mains [new] / Washer Shim Needle (1/2 height of stock bushing = ~1 notch?) / 40 Pilots [new]

I do know I need to do some separate chops so that different circuit use isn't contaminating the results.
Also, I am not yet 100% satisfied with the idle settings and sync.
It's decent, but I know needs some work.
Darn throttle/choke attachment between 2&3 carb makes adjusting that screw hard. I get it perfect and then tightening the nut down throws it just a tiny bit off -- so hard to get a wrench in there tight enough.
Might have to remove and manually choke to warm it up, that way I can adjust the sync screw without clutter and actually fine tune it.

I think I may have a minor leak going on somewhere, since it 'cold' idles around 1000, and 'warm' idles closer to 1500. Did a little spraying, but nothing useful discovered. I do want to replace the round clamps for the airbox and intake boots since mine might be suspect and possibly not sealing perfect. (09402-60208, 09402-50306)

Overall, the bike runs pretty well once going, and am too inexperienced to tell there is any problem in performance at all just by riding.

I have some other work and testing to do to make sure there are lingering issues before I get into the rest of the tuning.

I was thinking of rechecking the valves too, in case for any reason they could quickly readjust themselves out of whack already? Some were previously very tight, but were good after the work.

What my concern is some of the crud on the plugs; mainly 2 &3.

Some other posts lead me to believe that it may just need to be run a bunch to breathe life though the old beast and burn out some of the 'spider webs'. Perhaps if something was sticking and causing the fouling a spoon of Mystery Oil in each spot (this goes in where the spark plugs screw in?) ?

I am going to do a bunch of the other stuff for sure (clamps, idle tuning, fresh plugs for next testing phase); but wanted to see if anyone thought were was some other bigger picture things I should be aware of.
I can get the general reading on too rich/too lean since it's fairly easy, but the crud I'm not certain on.

Thanks for any input.


1 & 2 Front
200906-12-Front.jpg



3 & 4 Front
200906-34-Front.jpg


1 & 2 Top
200906-12-Top.jpg


3 & 4 Top

200906-34-Top.jpg
 
Not sure if this helps, I was helping a fellow GSR'er yesterday and he had a very high idle. Turns out when he bench synced his carbs he had set the slides to high, the throttle stop didn't contact the idle set screw. After backing off the set screws for the slides we got the idle down and was then able to set the idle with the idle adjust screw.
AS for the plugs 1 and 4 look rich 2 and 3 look better but I dont know what the crud is.
Good luck
 
Last edited:
Info sounds pretty good. Sure, it might be running a little lean. Do you have access to a colortune? Or you could do plug chops.

I would ride it some with some seafoam in the gas to. A few small tweeks and you are probably good to go.

Based on what you said, do you have a dyna ignition as well? Have you adjusted the timing?

Also, what bike is it?

Rick
 
1982 GS850GZ

Colortune sort of broke pn first use, the black extension wire pulled apart when getting the spark wire off it.

Am using Carbsync/tool for vac adjustments. Just hard to tighten down the 2/3 sync nut with it put together.

No on the Dyna ignit/timing adjustment.


Ordered new bot clamps today to help fight any possible air leaks from old
 
Been a little while --
Nothing too exciting from a 'technical info' standpoint, but just in case it helps people in the future I'll post some of my results. For the most part I am still going through the proper steps and learning.

8 new ring clamps installed for airbox/carb/intake.
Synced up as good as I can get it and have the idle circuit sensible. Fine tuning that later highest-idle later.

Bizarre crud seems to be not showing up anymore -- probably just 'spider webs' from sitting too long. :)

Last weekend I did some riding and checked the plugs after the trip (not a formal chop). Did most of the throttle in the 1/4 twist region. Looks a bit lean probably, but not worrying about that until I properly get to that phase.

Just received my full face helmet tonight; the open face is nice but eyes jsut tear up over 30-35 and makes it a bear to enjoy the ride.
Popped on the new helmet and I took the bike for a spin to warm up and then did the WOT chop. Would have like to been able to go further/longest with the full throttle, but I started to run into traffic. Quick up from 1st to 5th, chopped at probably 65mph.

This was my first time going over 50mph -- that was exciting to say the least!
Main jet is lean according to plugs, so I will be pulling the carbs and putting the next jet size in. Fortunately I had previously purchased said larger size and later second guessed myself and put in one step down. Stock is 115, 120s now, so I'll be trying 3 steps up with the 122.5.

Have fun with the spark wires crimp coming apart. Didn't bring quite enough tools to make fixing that as easy as it should have been. I did have my pliers/crimper -- but reshaping it to slide over the outer insulation was fun. :)
 
Thanks for the update - glad you're enjoying your ride...

You need to stay longer at WOT to get a good plug reading, but with that 4-1 pipe you're mostly lean with the 120's.

good luck,

mike
 
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