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    GS1100 performance rebuild questions

    What is the max overbore on a street stock 16 valve motor you would advise ? Should I get the crank welded & rebuilt ? This is a stock 80 1100E model with 17,000 miles and will remain stock except 4-1 V&H pipe & 36mm 1150 carbs at most with the 10.25 rebuild pistons. No drag racing except maybe some roll on stuff. Dont want a racer just a good running near stocker. This is just a heallthy near resto stocker. Thanks for any advice. I have a spare 82 motor & would redo it and keep the original one

    #2
    2 main things are clutch & crank. "82" or "83" model left end of crank & matching rotor, straight cut primary gear on crank, weld crank. Good clutch basket (hub) w/ straight cut gear, heavy springs, heavy backing plate & good rivets. 1148 pistons @ 10 to 1 compression, maybe a set "83" cams, or after mkt drop in's, set cams lobe centers @ 104 int. & 107 ex. Just my opinion, & what I would do if doing it again.
    1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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      #3
      The max bore you can go on stock 1100 sleeves is 75mm which is an 1166. I would do the 1166 piston kit, Have the crank welded by either John Pearson at Pearson Racing or Stan Gardner at GRC. The ONLY 2 places in the country I would let touch one of my cranks. For what YOU are doing, you won't need the straight cut gears or the big left end. Next, since you are NOT building a DRAG motor would be 750 oil pump gears, a rebuild kit on the clutch hub with the heavy backing plate & springs, APE clutch hub nut, APE case & cylinder studs, APE manual cam chain tensioner, Tsubaki cam chain, oil cooler, .348 WEB cams or .355 G-4 Cam Motion cams, adjustable cam sprockets, GOOD ignition system with coils & wires, & a top end oiler wouldn't hurt. For the head I would do a "radiused" valve job with new seals & springs for those cams & a clean up & blending of the ports to the valve seats. This combo should make between 120 & 130 HP at the rear wheel if you put some better carbs on it than the stock 1150 carbs. WITH the 1150 carbs probably only 115-120 at the wheel. I have LOTS of parts & am a dealer for all the parts you would need to do the build. Let me know if I can help, Ray.

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        #4
        .348 WEB cams or .355 G-4 Cam Motion cams,
        0.340's are a little more docile , but the .348 are supposed to be perfectly street-able. With the 0.340's I getting about 32 mpg, so I assume going to the .348/.355 it would drop further. Were talking about if you need to dip under 10 sec in the quarter mile here

        The head work is very important as Ray suggests.

        more back ground info:

        Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.

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          #5
          Who would use reccommend for the machine work, APE ? Do they block plate hone them ? My 80 spun the rotor on the crank, Im going to fix that with permatex green sleeve & bearing retainer and was thinking of using the good rotor off the 82. The 82 motor is froze so I need to check it out and see if its usable. Ill get back to you when Im ready. Thanks very much for the advice

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            #6
            The "just buy a new bike "theory is fine unless youre 65 with a bad back and cant ride something made for a 20 year old kid for more then 5 minutes. Funny the people that fit them cant afford the bike or insurance and the people who can cant ride them. Hayabusas dont fit me, Ive tried them ! I have a pretty stout sleeved 1105 Superbike Mike built KZ to tie me over that was built in 76.

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              #7
              I recommend NOT using the Cometic MLS (Multi Layers Stainless) head gasket that will come with the Wiseco 1168 cc kit.


              This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.

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                #8
                Look at my signature below.
                I like it alot!
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #10
                  I have bought from this guy (EBAYER) .. good to deal with.

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                    #11
                    Why is it that they show 2 different rotor puller sizes for GS1100s. My 80 measures 35mm. Did they change sizes on later ones ?

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                      #12
                      There are big end cranks and small end cranks, The went big sometime in 82.

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                        #13
                        Well both my untouched original 80 and my 82 with a build date of 2/82 measure 35mm. Im confused !

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                          #14
                          The big end crank really got introduced in 83. There are a few 82s with it at the end of the building year.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                            #15
                            I was talking about the threads on the rotor that the puller screws on to. I thought they were saying theres 2 different pullers. I know about the crank snouts, sorry

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