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The early 1100's had problems with the left end of the crank. They would break or the rotor would come loose & mutilate the tapered fitment between the rotor & the crank. Mine came loose after 30,00 mi. On the later models, Suzuki fixed it with a bigger left end with a different taper for the rotor. The clutch baskets (hubs) gave trouble because of the helicle cut gear, pushing great pressure sideways on the on the basket. This pressure would pull the gear & backing plate off the the rivets, causing big problems, even on stock bikes. Extra HP will require much stronger clutch hub. And the left end of the crank needs fixing, even for a stock eng. being as you are going to have the crank in the shop anyway. Just my opinion!!!
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1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100 -
Your opinion is very much apprecatedComment
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The shaft drive and chain drive 1100s have different pullers. Make sure you get the one for the 1100&1150.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Where you get that? Looks like a POS until it was Jimmy rigged.
1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Do NOT get the one for the 1100/1150 as it will be for the BIGGER left end crank! Bill, I know what you meant but a newbie could be confused. Get the puller SPECIFIC to a 1980 & it will be the CORRECT puller. Ray.Originally posted by chef1366 View PostComment
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I meassured the external threads on the 80 & 82 rotor and they both measured 35mm , so I looked at Motion Pro and ordered this one. It was the one they showed when I put the make, model & year into the guide. Tell me I didnt screw up please. I did it before reading the last 3 posts http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0349/. Im going to put the good rotor on the 80 crank with red locktite as was advised by rapidray. Let me know if I got the wrong one and maybe I can chnage it tomorrow. Thanks again guysComment
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Threads behind nut are 35mm on both 80 & 82 GS1100s. Rapid ray, this is the nut that had one thread left on the 80 and the rotor was spun on the crank. This picture is of the 82 parts bikeComment
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I didn't have the money to fix mine right. I tried the locktite, & tightened the nut till I thought I was going to twist off the end of the crank. It would hold for a little while, then come loose again. After the third try, I had nothing to lose. I used locktite, tightened as much as I thought safe, then welded the nut to the crank & the nut to the rotor. It really hurt to do it, but at the time I had no choice. It had 30,000 on it when I welded it & over 50,000 on it when I sold it, & it was still holding. Don't recommend it, but what did I have to lose????1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100Comment
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Could someone tell me if I ordered the right rotor puller ?Comment
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if you got the correct OD and thread count for a GS 1100 then it is more than likely correct.Comment
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A 65 year old Suzuki rookie thanks you !!!!!Comment
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