No oil pressure after overhaul

[Suzuki mad]

I under stand the need to repair a bike on the cheap and get it running. Going the way that you want to make sure that the new pin works and doesn't fail.

Best suggestion would be to get a second hand pump and do the job properly to save problems later.

It would be a good idea to remove the sump and clean the strainer out also.

[Nessism]

Those chain drive 1000 clutch baskets are known to develop play in the springs which leads to rattling. You can get a heavy duty backplate and spring kit for about $150 from various sources. It's a fairly simple matter to grind off the rivet heads and install the new parts before welding the assembly together. Try the advanced search function, you will turn up lots of info.

[mustangflyr]

Did you check if the little o-ring that fits between the crankcase halves is there? If the PO left it out guess what, the service manuals makes a special point relating to installing it.

[chef1366]

Oil???? What is that for?

I had this black crap kept getting on the floor; Found out where it was coming from so I drained it all and threw it out.

Floor is spotless now.

I need to run and do a post now cause I keep hearing this knock knock knokc.

You funny guy
I kill you last

See if you can find a used clutch basket on Ebay or do as Ed says to do with a new backing plate being riveted.
Do you have oil pressure now and do you think it will hold up for any amount of time?

[arve]

There is a bike breaker nearby who primarily aims at big old jap bikes,so used parts should not be any problem. http://www.krangnesmotor.no/ The groove for the retaining ring on the pump axle is so small that it easily could fall off again,was my thought. With the gear welded to the axle the problem is solved once and for all,if the weld doesnt break. Which it shouldnt.Only down side is the pump can never be dismantled again,but why should it be necessary?If its broke,its broke and then you buy a new one.Simple as that.I dont know if there is any oil pressure now,as I havent installed the parts yet,waiting for your good advice on the clutch basket. Seriously,it must do the job to weld it,providing the welds dont break? And if they dont,not much can happen besides that my bike stops? About the o-ring in the crankase,I sincerely hope its there..but if its not,is it possible to install it with the engine still in the frame? Thanks for all good advices.
Arve

[mustangflyr]

nope, you've got to split the cases which means the engine comes out, remember to logically diagnose the problem start with the simple and cheap. You did remove the chrome plug on the main oil gallery behind the cylinder ( right side) to test for oil pressure. This engine only calls for 3 psi @ 3000 rpm warm. So leave the o-ring for last, good luck.

[Suzuki_Don]

The oil is lifted from the sump via the pickup through the oil pump directly to the filter. So if you need to check oil flow, remove the oil filter and kick the motor over as SHARPY said to make sure oil flow is at the filter. If you get oil there then everything should be ok.
I'd be a bit concerned about the rest of the motor being dry though. Personally I'd remove the valve cover, saturate the valve buckets, camshafts and anything else I can with oil. Remove spark plugs and give each cylinder a good dose of oil, etc. so the engine doesn't start up dry. We don't want 10,000 miles wear on the motor before we get it on the road for the first road test do we.

[mustangflyr]

I'm with Suzuki Don, the oil filter is a good place to start. The system does go from the sump via the pump to the filter and then up to the pressure sending unit from there to the engine. Remove the cam cover and oil the cams also pull the plug and put a little oil in the cylinders. No kick starter so try spinning the engine for a few seconds with the electric starter. Should get oil flow real quick.

[reddirtrider]

This thread is why some of us get bikes that look ok on the outside, but when you go to work on them it's "WTF?"

[sharpy]

The oil is lifted from the sump via the pickup through the oil pump directly to the filter. So if you need to check oil flow, remove the oil filter and kick the motor over as SHARPY said to make sure oil flow is at the filter. If you get oil there then everything should be ok.
I'd be a bit concerned about the rest of the motor being dry though. Personally I'd remove the valve cover, saturate the valve buckets, camshafts and anything else I can with oil. Remove spark plugs and give each cylinder a good dose of oil, etc. so the engine doesn't start up dry. We don't want 10,000 miles wear on the motor before we get it on the road for the first road test do we.

Was being sarcastic with that kick starter coment on a 1000

[Suzuki_Don]

Was being sarcastic with that kick starter coment on a 1000

Sorry SHARPY, I'm not too familiar with the large motors.