Sitting Going Running

[PoBody]

OK, so I've got enough parts to potentially get 3 1983 GS750ES' going (technically one is an E not ES, but as it's simply a different fairing I'm not worried). Actually one can run and has been working great for me for almost a year until the carbs started acting funny. That's out of the way and I'm on to my next bike. I got the parts from a member on here who happens to be family. There's definitely enough parts for one complete bike and close to a second. If I can get everything put together it will, a) give me 3 bikes, and b) clear up a lot of room in the garage, enough for more bikes. Anyway, the point of this is for the bike that could be a starter this week.

The frame and wiring I'm not too worried about yet. I've got a complete bike as reference, though some of the work from previous owners is a little ghetto but I think I can make it out. I also have all the resources of here and the member I bought the stuff from (wiring diagrams, manual, other articles, printed version of articles from here, everything!) The real problem is getting the engine ready for starting. From what I understand this engine should run just fine, it'll need some help though. As far as I know, its been at least, quite possibly more, 7 years since it's ran. I'm hoping to not have to rebuild it. The second engine needs new transmission gears (got some used ones with, from what I understand, around 15k on them) but I have no clue how to install them. It's down the line though. Since everything SHOULD be good on this other engine my plans are to use it first. That said I've done some searching on how to start an engine that's been sitting. About the only familiar chemical I've come across is WD40. Spraying that into the cylinders. I've also read to use Marvel's Mystery Oil. Just pour some into the cylinders. Normally I'd stop there and get on with it. However, there's another chemical I hadn't seen listed as an option but I wanted to know what anyone thought about it. Seafoam. Would it work the same as the other options? MMO sounds like it would be good for soaking though. Although I'm familiar with Seafoam from doing Chinese Water Torcher to Volvos and I've heard amazing things about it, as I'm starting to with MMO.

There's plenty of work to be done before the end of the week, luckily I've got the time off. So far I've got the engine mounted, the carbs ready, and the forks rebuilt and hopefully tuned close enough to get things started (used the running bike but I'm sure I'll need more tuning and I'm prepared for that). Still got a bit to do but I'd like to get those cylinders ready. I meant to take pictures before I put the engine in, but then I remembered that it would look exactly like it did after I cleaned up the frame and before I took the forks off. I plan on taking more pictures now that the engine is in.

So, if you've gotten to this point, thanks for bearing with me. The final questions are:

WD40, Marvel's Mystery Oil, or Seafoam? Any others?
How much to put in and how many cycles?
In my running 750 I use 20W-50, would it be better to run a lighter weight initially since I'll be replacing the first batch of oil anyway?

I've already read to remove the plugs and crank the engine to help the oiling process.

Any other tips?

[TheCafeKid]

If the motor isnt stuck Use NONE OF THE ABOVE in my humble opinion. Simply spin the motor by hand, or if you have the thing apart lube with simple Rotella 15w40. 20w50 is fine in the summer, like now, but come the cooler weather, its gonna be a little thick which leaves to chance some parts getting poor lube during initial warm up.

[PoBody]

I'm not actually sure if it's stuck or not. I was wondering about spinning it though. How can I do that "by hand"? Never done that on a motorcycle and I've only ever done the cranking with no plugs method. Just spin the left side of the motor where the stator goes? (sorry if I've got terms or parts mixed up)

[TheCafeKid]

no... Right side, small round cover. Pull that off, and you'll be able to spin the crank with a 19mm socket. DO take the plugs out however, or you'll be spinning against compression. take your time the first few spins, and listen, and feel whats happening, dont go forcing the issue. Might dribble a teaspoon or so of oil down the spark plug hole if you feel certain its dry. BUT, most guys have found that over the years of soaking in hot oil, those motor parts arent likely to seize up unless there is something ELSE wrong.

[PoBody]

Ah ok, makes sense. I'll give that a try in the morning. Glad I asked. After searching I saw posts saying to fill the cylinder up with MMO. That sounded like overkill. I'll start with hand cranking and post up how it goes. If I should need to put in some oil does it matter the weight? Or just something to loosen it up? Thanks for the help.

[chef1366]

MMO is great for stuck rings.

[PoBody]

So just slowly turning the motor by hand proved just fine. Seems very smooth actually. The first couple turns were a tad stiff but quickly transitioned into a smooth turn-over. That said I've moved on to the next challenges. Started putting some of the side casings back on and found something interesting. On the Generator Cover on the left side the screw furthest towards the front of the bike that mates with threads that are external of the engine casing had some issues. For some reason it was packed with some...well gunk. At least that's what I thought it was. I was able to clean out the threads, mostly anyway, but when I went to put the screw in go figure that whole chunk breaks off the engine casing. So, of course this happens on forward side of the cover where there's a total of 3 screws and the back side has like 5 all right next to each other. So I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it now. Thought about getting some of that gasket sealer stuff and giving it a try to hold the oil back. I've got another engine, but it needs the tranny gears replaced. I've kind of moved on to some other parts, getting the wiring sorted back out, getting the drive stuff done (so far just need that tiny spring that hooks up to the clutch cable next to the drive gear.

Anyone have any advice on that broken piece and keeping that area from leaking?

[chef1366]

Build an epoxy bridge and drill a new bolt hole or do you know a welder?

[PoBody]

Never worked with epoxy. Just like, that five minute epoxy stuff? Or some other mix it, apply, and form stuff? I do know a welder. I can see if he'd be able to build a new piece there. Wasn't sure since the engine casing is cast and all. Thanks for the help, I'll contact that welder and look into the epoxy. Thanks again.

[mighty13d]

if the welder you know can tig aluminum, I would suggest that over epoxy any day. Just weld a solid plug on in place of the piece that was threaded, put the cover on and bolt into place with the other bolts, re-drill the hole using the over as a template, pull the cover off and thread the hole. It's not really too hard.

[PoBody]

Yea, he can tig aluminum. It'd be something I'd have to take to his shop as I think the only portable welding rig he has, save for the companies trailers, is arc. I'll talk to him. In the mean time if I can SAFELY get away with epoxy as a temporary solution until I can get to the shop I'll try it. If all were perfect he'd be able to fix it up by the time I'm ready for it to be fixed, but that's unlikely.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm sure I'll be posting up some more as this is a work in progress. There's plenty of work left to do.