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    #31
    all that work it would be a waist to not put in a new set of rings!!!

    i woulsd lapp the valves while your at it- a drill ,on the tip,and some valve grinding compound works great!! makes them seal great again
    just remember to be patient!, and have fun,and the bike will run like new

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      #32
      How can i tell if i can need to replace the rings or not?

      Also, anything else i should check/do while in there? Any good upgrades?

      Thanks

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by ameen View Post
        How can i tell if i can need to replace the rings or not?

        Also, anything else i should check/do while in there? Any good upgrades?

        Thanks
        My copy of the Clymer repair manual describes tests for rings, etc.
        Dogma
        --
        O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

        Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

        --
        '80 GS850 GLT
        '80 GS1000 GT
        '01 ZRX1200R

        How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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          #34
          Originally posted by ameen View Post
          How can i tell if i can need to replace the rings or not?

          Also, anything else i should check/do while in there? Any good upgrades?

          Thanks
          Take the rings off the pistons, slide down the bores as if they were on the pistons and check the gap with a feelergauge, refer to manual for measurements.
          Take your cylinder head/bores to any car dealership, go to the mechanics and ask can you use the vat (I think thats the name) machine which cleans hardened grease/oil from engine parts, if they are a nice crowd, they will let you use it.
          Failing that, use purple power or simple green strong and scrub away!
          I bypassed all that and glass beaded my engine, BUT if you go that route, make sure ALL the beads are out, if you dont the engine will last 5 minutes............

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            #35
            If I was to re do the valves, what all would i need to replace?

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              #36
              You'll need the correct valve compressor tool, you'll need valve stem seals and don't forget to lap valves in AND DONT GET VALVES mixed up with each other, make sure they go in the correct place.

              Comment


                #37
                it says something in the manual about not reusing valve guides. Can i reuse the ones in there?

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by ameen View Post
                  it says something in the manual about not reusing valve guides. Can i reuse the ones in there?
                  I think they are referring to valve oil stem seals.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                    #39
                    When checking ring gap make sure you push the ring in the bore with the piston to keep it even before taking measurements.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #40
                      Contrary to the post above by someone that is NOT an engine builder, do NOT use a drill to lap the valves!!! Ray.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I'm coming kinda late to this. Had the same thing happen to me with the
                        compression tester adapter. Last time I use a cheap tester on my motor.

                        Well, like you I was faced with the task of pulling the head, drilling out
                        the adapter (which I did using a hand drill), inserting a thread insert (use
                        some kind of high temp permanent thread lock or it will pull out of the
                        hot motor next time you remove the plug).

                        I also replaced the valve seals (wound up damaging a seal and had to redo
                        the head strip down) and the rings (wound up bending a ring and having
                        bad compression in one cylinder - replaced during second strip down).

                        Here's what I suggest: fix the hole and button it up. Leave the base
                        gasket alone. There's a guy on ebay who's dumping head gaskets for
                        $25 or so (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1...Q5fAccessories).
                        I'm running one of his and its dry.

                        Everything seems simple but the tiny details will cost you big time. You
                        might get it right the first time but its likely there will be something you
                        miss. It's also likely that with just 18k miles, the bike will run great on the
                        current rings and valve seals. You can always go back and strip it down
                        if there's a problem. Just my .02 cents.

                        BTW, I have some new OEM 550 std. rings for sale if you want (3 sets I
                        believe).

                        A year and a half later I finally got the bike running as well as it did just
                        before I did the compression test. I stuck through it and learned alot but
                        I would rather avoid the experience.
                        Last edited by DimitriT; 06-28-2009, 08:09 AM.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Thant sounds like good advice. Any reason that you recommend leaving the base gasket alone? I already started taking mine off....


                          Thanks

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by ameen View Post
                            Thant sounds like good advice. Any reason that you recommend leaving the base gasket alone? I already started taking mine off....


                            Thanks
                            Because to get it off you need to remove the cylinders which would open a can of worms.
                            If you already took off the cylinders then you should replace the base gasket along with
                            the oval shaped rubber o-rings. I strongly recommend you get someone to help you
                            put the cylinders back on as its a hard job with one set of hands. Also make sure you
                            get every last bit of gasket and dirt off the surfaces. I used a utility knife blade to carefully
                            shave off any bits stuck on. This way she'll be nice and dry for many years. Also apply
                            a little grease to both side of the gasket. If you need to strip it down again in the next
                            year, the old gasket will just slide right off and you don't need to go through the whole
                            cleanup phase which is the most time consuming part IMO.
                            Last edited by DimitriT; 06-28-2009, 10:30 AM.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              OK.. I am getting ready to start assembling this thing soon. A couple of the rods that stick up from the block came unscrewed when i took it apart. Is there anything special i should know about putting these back in? anyone know the torque?
                              Also, are these bolts all reusable or do the yield to torque and need replacing?

                              Thanks
                              Ameen

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