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Replacing '78 GS1000 seperate R/R units w/single unit, other wiring changes needed?

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    Replacing '78 GS1000 seperate R/R units w/single unit, other wiring changes needed?

    I purchased the Electrosport single unit replacement R/R for my '78 1000, and hooked it up in place of the old rectifier, simply plugging into the harness connections used by the original rectifier, but did not remove the old regulator, or alter any of the old regulator's wiring.

    What seems to happen now, is that after full charge is reached, and when I switch the headlight on, the fuel guage pins off scale...turn off the headlight, fuel guage needle drops back down to operating range. When bike is started after sitting a day or so, things work normally even with the headlight on because, I assume, the battery is charging.

    Is there something additional I need to reconnect/disconnect because of that one phase from the stator that goes to the headlight switch first, before returing to the rectifier? Do I need to remove the old regulator and patch any wiring from that? I'm afraid that aside from the disfunctionality of the fuel guage, I may be cooking the battry or some other bad thing.

    Thanks...

    #2
    Three stator wires directly to the R/R. Red to the power on the R/R. Ground to a good frame ground and battery.
    I wouldn't use the wire that goes through the headlight switch.
    At least this is how I'd do it.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Chef is missing a couple of words there, but yeah, that's the way to do it.

      Three stator wires directly to the three input wires on the r/r (bypass the wires to the headlight switch).
      Red (output) wire from r/r straight to the battery (going through a fuse is recommended).
      Black (ground) wire from r/r straight to the battery or a good chassis ground that then goes straight to the battery.

      .
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        #4
        Originally posted by Steve View Post
        Chef is missing a couple of words there, but yeah, that's the way to do it.

        Three stator wires directly to the three input wires on the r/r (bypass the wires to the headlight switch).
        Red (output) wire from r/r straight to the battery (going through a fuse is recommended).
        Black (ground) wire from r/r straight to the battery or a good chassis ground that then goes straight to the battery.

        .
        Hi Steve, good advice. i was just wondering what amperage of fuse you would recommend for the Red+ straight from the RR to the battery?

        thanks

        Comment


          #5
          Wondering why that fuse is necessary?

          Can the battery ever call for too many amps from the charging circuit or is it to protect if a plate shorts or what?

          Cheers,

          Dan
          1980 GS1000G - Sold
          1978 GS1000E - Finished!
          1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
          1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
          2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
          1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
          2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

          www.parasiticsanalytics.com

          TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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            #6
            A 15A fuse is plenty.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

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            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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