Carb Needles

[Julia]

OK. When I start to put this carb back together, how far do I turn the needles? Do I put them all the way in then back them out? The carb rebuild didn't say. Do I count the number of turns as I screwed them back out?

Julia

[tkent02]

Which carbs and which needles?

[Larry D]

Go to the User CP in the upper left of the screen and edit the signature to read what bike you have. We'll quit asking if you do.

Are you asking about the air/fuel mixture screws ? The tapered ones on the top front of the carbs ? If so, they're normally set to two turns out from lightly seated, which is good to get the bike running again. You can fine tune from there. Don't crank them down or you run the risk of snapping off the tapered end.
And here's some bench sync notes.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carb_sync_notes.html

[rustybronco]

OK. When I start to put this carb back together, how far do I turn the needles? Do I put them all the way in then back them out? The carb rebuild didn't say. Do I count the number of turns as I screwed them back out?

Julia

Lightly seat them (turn them in) and then 1.5 turns back from lightly seated.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1035357&postcount=125

pilot screw pre-set (1.5 turns back (mixture screw))

[hikermikem]

OK. When I start to put this carb back together, how far do I turn the needles? Do I put them all the way in then back them out? The carb rebuild didn't say. Do I count the number of turns as I screwed them back out?

Julia

Hi Julia,

I thought I just read the other day, you had just found some carb dip...

Are you ready to re-assemble already?? Or are you just planning ahead?

Take lots of digital pics of the carbs before you break them down (if it's not too late) to "remind" you where some of the parts go (e.g, the choke rail & associated connections, brackets to hold the throttle & choke cables, ect...)

[Julia]

I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?

[Fenixgoon]

I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?

My gangplank screws came out fine...
my float bowl post, on the other hand: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143888

[Nessism]

I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?

Some times you can grab the screw with vicegrips and turn them out. Worth a try.

[hikermikem]

I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?

Yeah, I remember having problems with those stinkin' screws before. The key is to make sure you have a proper fitting phillips screwdriver head...

That's the same advice I would give for ANY fastener - otherwise you risk smearing over the head.

I bought an inexpensive rachet set at Advance Auto that had a small rachet driver with a bunch of different type heads included: large & small phillps & flat heads, for around $15 bucks. It works for me to remove thoses gang plank screws.

I essentially use a hammer to whack the driver head into the screw head, then use the rachet drive to "break" it out. The PB Blaster should help - good stuff. Be patient, it will unscrew.

How about your mixture screws?? Are the aluminum plugs still over the tops - or are they accessible to remove??

Good luck - you can do it,

Mike

[Julia]

I am so stupid. I had the impact friver set to tighten. Screws came right off. Now off to bike bandit to replace them.
There are no caps anywhere. I believe someone else has rebuilt these carbs. There are 2 end caps on either side but other then that, all the screws are exposed. Saturday is when I start to remove all the screws from carb #1. Should I count how many turns it takes to remove these screws?

[hikermikem]

You're not stupid, just inexperienced - see, you're getting smarter already

Glad you got past that hurdle... I don't think the number of turns really matters now - when you reassemble them, set them at 1.5 turns from LIGHTLY seated to start. You'll be playin' with them later anyway.

More important, make sure your bench synch is close so the bike starts right off...

Does your bike have any mods?? Or is it completely stock?

[Julia]

Does your bike have any mods?? Or is it completely stock?

I'm only putting on air pods. Other than that there's no mods that I can see. Maybe next year I'm going to buy a new exhaust.
I've gotta do more research on bench synching.

[Nessism]

I'm only putting on air pods. Other than that there's no mods that I can see. Maybe next year I'm going to buy a new exhaust.
I've gotta do more research on bench synching.

With pods you need to rejet the carbs or the bike will run like crap and over heat the engine. Not sure if Dynojet offers a kit for the 650 but you might want to check. It's much cheaper and safer to keep the stock airbox.

[hikermikem]

I've gotta do more research on bench synching.

When you re-attach the throttle linkage between the carbs (held in place by those pesky gang planks) you want all four butterflies to open & close in unison with each other (e.g., the same amount of opening per carb).

Notice where the throttle cable attaches on the #3 carb - there's no sync/vaccum adjuster screw there (little phillips head screw with a locknut). There is however, a longer brass screw with a scalloped head - that's the idle adjustment screw & it sets the "home" position of the #3 carb butterfly.

You want to turn the little adjuster screws on the other carbs (1,2, & 4) to match the gap (opening) of the #3 master carb. (These are the same screws you will adjust later when doing a dynamic sync when the bike is running - so don't make them super tight, snug is good).

Most members here use the shank end of a small dia drill bit to set the gaps to: open #3 & insert your spacer (shank), then close the butterfly with that pretty brass knob so you just barely scrape the shank when you push it in & out. Set the other carbs using the same technique (and feel), but now you're using the little adjuster screws to move their butterflies.

After all the carbs are set, use the idle adjuster knob (pretty one) to set the butterflies open just a crack (otherwise the bike will rev out-of-control when you initially start it)

Voila, that's a bench sync - take care to be as exact as you can, this will exponentially increase your chances the bike will start.

Good luck

mike

[Julia]

The carb rebuild kit came with needles and screws. Should I use the stock needles or replace them with the ones that come in the kit?