New to me 1982 GS750T

[Lloyd]

Which method did you use?

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/DynaS_Coil_RelayMod.pdf

or

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...relay_mod.html

I think im going to go with this method:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/ignition_coil_%20relay_part2.pdf

[gearhead13]

I have Dyna coils on mine, so I have heavy gauge wire from bat to relay then to the coils, mounted my relay under the left side cover on the same bolt that holds the solenoid. Never has my relay died on me, although I do carry a spare. I left the wires from the ignition box alone and just spliced wire to them to make it to the relay.

[Lloyd]

OK, well I did the relay mod and it is still the same, but the spark is great! I'm going to attempt to make a fuel lever gauge and see where I am with that.

I have the the following again to just make sure everything is correct. Benched synced the carbs, purchased and used a colortune kit to adjust the fuel screws and then synced the carbs.

The bike still runs and idles great. It still falls on its face with a quick blip, but once you get past that it is very fast. In neutral on my bike lift, at prob around 2-3k rpms is where it is not running correctly. It is running rough and popping. What now?

Also, when rebuilding the carbs I did not change the O rings on the T's in between the carbs. No fuel is leaking from them, but could this be the problem?

I am really out of ideas, I need help!!!

Thanks guys

[Lloyd]

OK, well I did the relay mod and it is still the same, but the spark is great! I'm going to attempt to make a fuel lever gauge and see where I am with that.

I have the the following again to just make sure everything is correct. Benched synced the carbs, purchased and used a colortune kit to adjust the fuel screws and then synced the carbs.

The bike still runs and idles great. It still falls on its face with a quick blip, but once you get past that it is very fast. In neutral on my bike lift, at prob around 2-3k rpms is where it is not running correctly. It is running rough and popping. What now?

Also, when rebuilding the carbs I did not change the O rings on the T's in between the carbs. No fuel is leaking from them, but could this be the problem?

I am really out of ideas, I need help!!!

Thanks guys

Bump
Bump
Bump

[gearhead13]

So, you didnt fully disasemble the carbs? Sounds like a plugged pilot jet/ airscrew. Or maladjusted airscrew.

[almarconi]

Did you check the fuel level yet?

[Lloyd]

So, you didnt fully disasemble the carbs? Sounds like a plugged pilot jet/ airscrew. Or maladjusted airscrew.

Carbs have been torn down many times and thoroughly cleaned. All jets and the needle valve have been replaced. The only parts that were not replaced were the O rings on the fuel tee's because the rebuild kits did not supply them.

[Lloyd]

Did you check the fuel level yet?

Not yet I'm still looking for a bowl drain bolt that I can drill out. My local hardware store didn't have the proper thread pitch in that size bolt. Oddly enough they had the right nut for the bolt... I might buy a piece of brass rod and machine it to work...


To me it still sounds fuel related...

[Larry D]

The best way to tune your bike is by riding it, not on a bike stand. IMHO.

Let's say you're in second gear going around a 90 degree turn. What happens when you roll on the throttle ? Does it hesitate or stutter ? If so, you're a little rich on your pilot. Turn the idle air screws in a quarter turn and go try again. If you have to keep turning them in the idle is going to increase, adjust with the master idle knob. Kinda like the hightest rpm method, only by riding.

Are you certain you have the correct jets ? 42.5 for the pilots ?

[gearhead13]

So, were any of the old o-rings replaced? Im not sure of what kind of carb kit you had, but there are several o-rings besides the fuel links between the carbs. There is one on the fuel inlet seat and one on the idle mixture screw that should be replaced.