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Originally posted by zacheriaj View PostDogma
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O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David
Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan
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'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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zacheriaj
Originally posted by Dogma View PostIs it fine power-shifting at red line? I love that test...
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UserNotFound
Originally posted by zacheriaj View PostSee for your self how it runs!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weXE0nirmDE
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Hammered
But how does it shift while riding? You can damn near run it on butter milk for a period but with a wet clutch, its gonna shift like crap. Until I dumped the the oil the PO had used on the change he did, mine slipped a lot at high RPM shifts. Before you change the oil, run the recommended amount of Seafoam in the engine for about 100 to 200 miles worth of riding. This should remove a good bit of the gunk that the sealer contains. Then just use the average grade, straight weight oil your bike requires. I used Oreily's 10w40 at $12 a 5 quart jug and they had an oil filter for my bike. (yeah I was suprised too) A Fram for $3 and change. The main problem I see with the wax is the filter. Even though its got a low melting point, until it melts, its clogging everything its cooled onto. Just my pennies worth.
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Did you get this running with the igniter and crank trigger plate I sent you?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by Hammered View PostBut how does it shift while riding? You can damn near run it on butter milk for a period but with a wet clutch, its gonna shift like crap. Until I dumped the the oil the PO had used on the change he did, mine slipped a lot at high RPM shifts. Before you change the oil, run the recommended amount of Seafoam in the engine for about 100 to 200 miles worth of riding. This should remove a good bit of the gunk that the sealer contains. Then just use the average grade, straight weight oil your bike requires. I used Oreily's 10w40 at $12 a 5 quart jug and they had an oil filter for my bike. (yeah I was suprised too) A Fram for $3 and change. The main problem I see with the wax is the filter. Even though its got a low melting point, until it melts, its clogging everything its cooled onto. Just my pennies worth.
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zacheriaj
Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostBeen running those Fram filters on my ES for over 10K miles now...whipping that oil like a Llama's ass. Never seen the filter so much as look funny...
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by zacheriaj View PostChanged the oil today with SAE 10-40w. New filter and gasket. I cant believe how well this thing runs!
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