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    #16
    Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
    What did U do about the brake lines ?
    huh? I just unbolted the calipers from the forks, then used a wire to suspend the calipers, if that's what you mean.
    1983 GS1100E

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      #17
      C'mon guy! If you can rebuild a motor this is a walk in the park.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #18
        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
        C'mon guy! If you can rebuild a motor this is a walk in the park.
        Ya, Ya , but engines are cool and interesting, forks are boring and tedious

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          #19
          Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
          What did U do about the brake lines ?
          I left the calipers attached to the brake lines, then set the calipers on a chair or box or something as not to stress that rubber. If you have stainless lines, You could just leave them hang...not gonna hurt anything for the ammount of time they'll be there.

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            #20
            I cannot remove the top fork tube seats on mine ( rusted closed ) Can they be filled from the bottom?
            Last edited by Guest; 08-09-2009, 12:13 AM.

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              #21
              Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
              I cannot remive the top fork tube seats on mine ( rusted closed ) Can they be filled from the bottom?
              That'll be a mess...How did you get them apart to change the seals?? How are you going to get them apart to change springs??

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                #22
                This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.

                Reading this will give your confidence a boost. It went so easy I MADE UP a problem! I couldn't believe all the parts in the schematic wouldn't result in a mistake- but it really was easy. Just a number of simple steps.
                I've done a stator replacement,starter clutch replacement and a few other things,this was very easy compared to those. The toughest part was dealing with my anxiety over a possible failure.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
                  I cannot remive the top fork tube seats on mine ( rusted closed ) Can they be filled from the bottom?
                  Drop some PB Blaster in there and let sit for awhile. Then hit it with a hammer and a large socket. It'll break free.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                    #24
                    Well, got it done.
                    My forks are different than any manual or fiche I have looked at. Must be because it is a GSX750EZ Canadian model.
                    Nothing 19mm to grab onto, just stuffed the threaded rod in to hold it. manual shows special tool as a tapered piece to hold the inside. Seal retainer clips were almost fully rusted away PO said the seals were redone, I dont think so. The fluid in there was NASTY. Had to drill out the allen bolt on the bottom as it was stripped.
                    The spring were a 2 piece affair, one short piece 2 1/2" long that I replaced with some pvc tubing.

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                      #25
                      Congrats!!

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                        #26
                        Got them all back together except for the top spring clip that holds the seal down, having trouble finding a needle nose small enough to hold it closed to press it in place. Any suggestions? special tool? Its a PIA!

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                          #27
                          IDK? My inside C clips had big holes to grab and was able to use bigger pliers than I use for other stuff.
                          Get a pair of pliers that you can spare and grind the ends down to fit?

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by jwhelan65 View Post
                            Got them all back together except for the top spring clip that holds the seal down, having trouble finding a needle nose small enough to hold it closed to press it in place. Any suggestions? special tool? Its a PIA!
                            On your ES?? Those little wire springs?? I think you just push the seal/plate DOWN and then put the wire spring clippy thing in and gently let the seal come back up, and it should stay in place...maybe i just got lucky on those 550 ones i did..

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                              #29
                              my fork had a clip in there that was as described. but i had ordered a replacement part from bike bandit as i was gearing up to try the replacement, and what came in the mail was the springy wire clip as cafekid describes...much easier, and didn't need pliers.

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                                #30
                                I ordered new from Bike Bandit as well. I recieved the same part as stock, it needs to be compressed to get it in place. I don't see any other way.

                                Josh I think you are referencing the the top sprin, this is the one that sits on top of the seal on the lower tube. it is wider and "C" shaped with holes near the opening for pinching it together.
                                Last edited by Guest; 08-09-2009, 08:10 AM.

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