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changing fork seals
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C'mon guy! If you can rebuild a motor this is a walk in the park.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by bonanzadave View PostWhat did U do about the brake lines ?
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This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.
Reading this will give your confidence a boost. It went so easy I MADE UP a problem! I couldn't believe all the parts in the schematic wouldn't result in a mistake- but it really was easy. Just a number of simple steps.
I've done a stator replacement,starter clutch replacement and a few other things,this was very easy compared to those. The toughest part was dealing with my anxiety over a possible failure.
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Originally posted by jwhelan65 View PostI cannot remive the top fork tube seats on mine ( rusted closed ) Can they be filled from the bottom?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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gearhead13
Well, got it done.
My forks are different than any manual or fiche I have looked at. Must be because it is a GSX750EZ Canadian model.
Nothing 19mm to grab onto, just stuffed the threaded rod in to hold it. manual shows special tool as a tapered piece to hold the inside. Seal retainer clips were almost fully rusted away PO said the seals were redone, I dont think so. The fluid in there was NASTY. Had to drill out the allen bolt on the bottom as it was stripped.
The spring were a 2 piece affair, one short piece 2 1/2" long that I replaced with some pvc tubing.
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jwhelan65
Got them all back together except for the top spring clip that holds the seal down, having trouble finding a needle nose small enough to hold it closed to press it in place. Any suggestions? special tool? Its a PIA!
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gearhead13
IDK? My inside C clips had big holes to grab and was able to use bigger pliers than I use for other stuff.
Get a pair of pliers that you can spare and grind the ends down to fit?
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by jwhelan65 View PostGot them all back together except for the top spring clip that holds the seal down, having trouble finding a needle nose small enough to hold it closed to press it in place. Any suggestions? special tool? Its a PIA!
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boathead
my fork had a clip in there that was as described. but i had ordered a replacement part from bike bandit as i was gearing up to try the replacement, and what came in the mail was the springy wire clip as cafekid describes...much easier, and didn't need pliers.
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jwhelan65
I ordered new from Bike Bandit as well. I recieved the same part as stock, it needs to be compressed to get it in place. I don't see any other way.
Josh I think you are referencing the the top sprin, this is the one that sits on top of the seal on the lower tube. it is wider and "C" shaped with holes near the opening for pinching it together.Last edited by Guest; 08-09-2009, 08:10 AM.
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