Okay, here's why I'm asking... I replaced my clutch fiber disks and was torquing the spring bolts back on. I was using a ft. lb. tourque wrench which I now realize is a little heavy handed for that job. I had 2 bolts that seemed to keep going and wouldn't torque so I loosened them up and tried again and they torqued. I threw the bike back together and took it out and man my clutch slip problem has been resolved!! yes! 3 stock and 3 EBC springs, EBC fibers. After the ride I kind of had that unsure feeling about the torque of the clutch spring bolts so I took it all apart to check. I put the wrench on the bolts and they all broke over at 8 ft. lbs correctly except one. I took that bolt out and it appears to be a little bent. I took another one out for comparison and used that good bolt to thread into each of the threads. The both feel the same and have a substantial amount of play when threading them in. The threads look pretty good to me. From what I can tell the bike had never been apart before, only 12K miles. I've got a new bolt on order but I'm wondering if by using that torque wrench if I didn't mess up all of the threads on the clutch hub or if I haven't damaged them at all. My friend tells me to put it back together and if they all torque up correctly then all is good..
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82 1100e clutch hub bolts and threads
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suz82
82 1100e clutch hub bolts and threads
My question is, is it typical for the clutch hub bolts to have some play in the threads? Anyone got one handy they can run a bolt into to compare against what I'm seeing? Compared to the clutch side case cover bolts which are pretty snug in the threads the clutch hub bolts seem to have a fair amount of play when you're threading them in. Read below if you want to see where I've been on this... Thanks for your input!!
Okay, here's why I'm asking... I replaced my clutch fiber disks and was torquing the spring bolts back on. I was using a ft. lb. tourque wrench which I now realize is a little heavy handed for that job. I had 2 bolts that seemed to keep going and wouldn't torque so I loosened them up and tried again and they torqued. I threw the bike back together and took it out and man my clutch slip problem has been resolved!! yes! 3 stock and 3 EBC springs, EBC fibers. After the ride I kind of had that unsure feeling about the torque of the clutch spring bolts so I took it all apart to check. I put the wrench on the bolts and they all broke over at 8 ft. lbs correctly except one. I took that bolt out and it appears to be a little bent. I took another one out for comparison and used that good bolt to thread into each of the threads. The both feel the same and have a substantial amount of play when threading them in. The threads look pretty good to me. From what I can tell the bike had never been apart before, only 12K miles. I've got a new bolt on order but I'm wondering if by using that torque wrench if I didn't mess up all of the threads on the clutch hub or if I haven't damaged them at all. My friend tells me to put it back together and if they all torque up correctly then all is good..Tags: None
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Run a tap in the threads and if you say you didn't strip any out you should be golden.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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suz82
Yeah I ran a tap through it and everything is smooth but it has a fair amount of movement as compared to the same diameter bolt that fits in the clutch cover side case.. Puzzling why this would be the case. But if it's normal as compared to another hub then I'll just go with it.
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I have a inner hub in my shed but no bolts to check the threads with.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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suz82
I brought home a inch pound torque wrench from work to give it a try. My manual shows the torque for the clutch bolts to be 8 - 9.5 ft. lbs. They don't even list inch pounds. I decided to favor 8 ft. lbs, the low end and multiplied this by 12 to get the inch pound equivelent of 96 inch pounds. I tightened the bolt then put on my larger ft. lb torque wrench to check it and it broke over perfectly at 8 ft. lbs. Hey my big torque wrench is pretty accurate! I decided to go ahead and torque the remainder using my large torque wrench and they all torqued perfectly. So I'm thinking the difference between these 2 types of torque wrenches is not huge.. I do have one bolt that has a slight bend in it and I have a new one on the way. I'm betting this bent bolt was my problem all along, since I used this set of threads to torque down a different bolt successfully. Soo..., long story short, the ft. lb torque wrench works fine, the threads on the clutch hub I believe are intentially a little loose to assist you with threading in the bolts while compressing the springs. Time to button this thing back up and go riding!
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Have fun!1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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