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    Engine Brake-in

    I did a search but didn't see anything related to this question. Who can tell me what the proper brake-in is for a 1980 GS850G? I ask this because I have one that has only 67 miles on it. Being almost 30 years old I don't want to risk damage to the motor. What should I limit the RPM's to and for how long etc. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    #2
    Ride it hard.
    Don't be afraid if it was done right.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Change the oil & filter first, replace the oil with a GOOD, NON synthetic oil & go beat the crap out of it, ride it up to redline in the first 3 gears a couple of dozen times. After 600 miles, pull the valve cover, re-torque the head, check & if needed adjust the valves, & change the oil & filter again. Then ride it, love it, race it, cruise it, polish it, & enjoy it! Just don't CRASH it!!! Ray.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by rapidray View Post
        Change the oil & filter first, replace the oil with a GOOD, NON synthetic oil & go beat the crap out of it, ride it up to redline in the first 3 gears a couple of dozen times. After 600 miles, pull the valve cover, re-torque the head, check & if needed adjust the valves, & change the oil & filter again. Then ride it, love it, race it, cruise it, polish it, & enjoy it! Just don't CRASH it!!! Ray.
        EWWW, I forgot all the important stuff.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          It happens...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
            EWWW, I forgot all the important stuff.
            No you didn't.

            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
            Ride it hard.
            Don't be afraid if it was done right.


            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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              #7
              My opinion is to ride the bike in the city for a while and use the throttle liberally. Worst things you can do is hold a light, steady throttle or lug the engine; vary engine load and rpm. Use the engine but I don’t think there is any real need to beat on it.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                Ed, you need to go read MotoTune! I'll try to find the linc & attach it here for you to read & be educated. Ray.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Try this on for size! http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Trust me, it WORKS!!! Ray.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    Worst things you can do is hold a light, steady throttle or lug the engine;
                    THIS much I DO agree with. Ray.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      great link Ray

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        My opinion is to ride the bike in the city for a while and use the throttle liberally. Worst things you can do is hold a light, steady throttle or lug the engine; vary engine load and rpm. Use the engine but I don’t think there is any real need to beat on it.
                        I'm with Ed

                        Ride somewhere where you can vary rpms to load and unload the rings. You can run it up to redline occasionally or down shift for engine braking

                        Ring seating is the main issue. Not much break in with a roller crank

                        Then service it at 600 miles at let r rip!
                        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                        2007 DRz 400S
                        1999 ATK 490ES
                        1994 DR 350SES

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                          #13
                          A nice brisk ride up one of my local canyons works really well.
                          On and off the throttle, constantly varying RPM, what's important is a lot of open and closed throttle. Do what the Mototune guy says.

                          For you flatlanders, go out at about three thirty in the morning when there are no cops or traffic and act like you are blasting up my local canyon.

                          The only reason the owners manuals say to baby the engines is so stupid kids don't all dump their fast new bikes before they even get them home from the dealership.
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I've seen that mototune link before and while there is some value to the approach, I don't buy into it fully. Vary the rpm and load, and work your way up the rpm range as you accumulate mileage, and I believe you will be good to go.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                              The only reason the owners manuals say to baby the engines is so stupid kids don't all dump their fast new bikes before they even get them home from the dealership.
                              I have heard this from a few people. The slight increases in max RPM as you get more miles on the bike is so the newb can slowly learn to ride. If you know what your doing already, happily thrash away, the bike can take it.

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