Well then you're either mis-reading your manual, or your manual is misprinted. I have just about EVERY Suzuki OEM shop manual and Clymer manual printed for the GS, even for bikes i dont own, nor intend on ever purchasing. It clearly says 10W 15W OR Dexron ATF. Not that they cant be mixed, but its rather silly to do so. Also, it CLEARLY states that the amount of oil per fork should not exceed POINT ONE ounces more in one than the other, doing so will possibly cause axle stress/damage/breakage and bearing failure...So, if .1 oz of difference between the two can cause that, i wonder what .3 over filled would possibly do? Id rather not find out.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by Killer2600 View Post
Well then you're either mis-reading your manual, or your manual is misprinted. I have just about EVERY Suzuki OEM shop manual and Clymer manual printed for the GS, even for bikes i dont own, nor intend on ever purchasing. It clearly says 10W 15W OR Dexron ATF. Not that they cant be mixed, but its rather silly to do so. Also, it CLEARLY states that the amount of oil per fork should not exceed POINT ONE ounces more in one than the other, doing so will possibly cause axle stress/damage/breakage and bearing failure...So, if .1 oz of difference between the two can cause that, i wonder what .3 over filled would possibly do? Id rather not find out.Last edited by Guest; 06-29-2009, 11:10 PM.
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Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostWell then you're either mis-reading your manual, or your manual is misprinted. I have just about EVERY Suzuki OEM shop manual and Clymer manual printed for the GS, even for bikes i dont own, nor intend on ever purchasing. It clearly says 10W 15W OR Dexron ATF. Not that they cant be mixed, but its rather silly to do so. Also, it CLEARLY states that the amount of oil per fork should not exceed POINT ONE ounces more in one than the other, doing so will possibly cause axle stress/damage/breakage and bearing failure...So, if .1 oz of difference between the two can cause that, i wonder what .3 over filled would possibly do? Id rather not find out.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostSome of the Suzuki manuals say 50/50 mix, ATF and motor oil. Sorry, can't remember the weight of oil recommended.
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Get the tire balanced and make sure you are even with fluid and spacers in both forks. Also make sure they are in the triples the same and not binding.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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You have little experience, and have changed many things without using the proper manual or the proper tools. The bike handled funny at low speeds, and you took it to 70 mph. Unless you slow down and do things methodically and carefully, you may hurt yourself quite badly.
GET. A. SHOP. MANUAL! (search the forum for threads on who prefers what, and where to get them. One might be available on-line.)
Read it and follow the instructions.
Get a torque wrench. Actually, you'll need two torque wrenches, for low and high torque. Again, search for threads on sources and types.
You didn't say who changed your tires. A properly balanced wheel will usually have only one weight, and never more than two. Search the forum for threads, or take the wheel and tire to a dealer and have them do it.
You could have put Progressive springs in your forks, but cut them down. It would have been very easy to have cut the springs differently. Big problem. Unless you can prove that the springs are now identical, they should be replaced.
And so on. Do one thing at a time, and do it carefully.sigpic[Tom]
“The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13952
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Sounds like you are also bolting things up the wrong way! You need to go top down... Axle is last!
Dan1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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scrapper
Okay, didn't relize I had been so bad? Just got the forks apart and everything looks fine? Spacers and springs are the same.Wheel bearing seem very tight, and spining ok. I went to store and got a torque wrench, one will have to do for now, will keep looking at everything everyone mentioned. Will work on it more tomorrow.I have a manual and do read it. It is alot of info on here to digest, know I am going to make mistakes. That is why I ask questions. I seem to remember somewhere someone was talking about tightening the front end from the bottom up. I am going to read up some more on the clymers book tonight to make sure it goes smoother. Thanks for the help so far.
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Don-lo
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Clone
You cut down the fork springs why?
Put in fork oil or ATF or hydraulic oil, they will not foam like engine oil will.
Check the fork bearings and the tubes to see if the sliders are ok.
Check the front wheel bearings.
Check the rear swing arm bearings.
You cut down the fork springs? Again why?
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by Clone View Post
You cut down the fork springs why?
Put in fork oil or ATF or hydraulic oil, they will not foam like engine oil will.
Check the fork bearings and the tubes to see if the sliders are ok.
Check the front wheel bearings.
Check the rear swing arm bearings.
You cut down the fork springs? Again why?
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You live in a large enough city - just go down to a bike shop and buy fork oil.
Don't mess around with ATF or mixing anything - what's the point?
Remember, it's hydraulic fluid and not motor oil - they are two different things
Then, carefully reassemble your front end, starting with the head bearings
Don't be afraid to ask more questions - some members have a tendency to wander from the subject matter in their answers
And go to BassCliff's site and see if he has a shop manual for you.Last edited by Big T; 07-01-2009, 10:03 PM.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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scrapper
Ok, I got it back together and went for a small test drive. It seems ok now. It was the oil or the bearings in the head. I changed it to atf. I think it was the bearings the lock ring was loose. I torqued everything though. I was wondering if I did this right or wrong? I put the forks up in the head lightly tighted the top pich bolts to hold them in place. I then tightened the lock ring a little and then torqued the bolt then tighten the ring a little more, the front end turned really easy no problems. I then tighten the forks from the top down. Checked tire and it was spining straight. I did not notice any play in any parts. cuting the springs down and putting the spacers in seems to have stiffened the front end which is what I wanted.It does not hop on big bumps. I made sure to hit a really rough road no problems. I did not break any teeth off either. I am wondering about one thing which is the lock ring I did not find in the manual but I did think was correct to tighten it down not up. I wanted to check to make sure.It is a lock nut so I guess it could be used one way or the other to lock it. The rubber piece is why I'm asking. I would think you would want to lock it to a piece of metal not against the rubber ring or washer.Thank you all for helping , I don't mind the constructive critizism. It helps keep me on my toes.
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scrapper
I am wondering about the oil thing,I work in a scrap yard and we run a couple of hydraulic cranes that run on motor oil instead of hydraulic oil. They do not have any problems with foaming. The cranes are similar, and work just as good. I am thinking the tech manual of one of the hydraulic cranes has a table if you want to change it over to motor oil, . I was always under the impression that it would not work.I guess alot of places just run motor oil because it is cheaper to have only one kind of oil, they buy in bulk. I not trying to start an arguement but I have read in the forum alot of people seem to run alot of different stuff?
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Originally posted by scrapper View PostI am wondering about the oil thing,I work in a scrap yard and we run a couple of hydraulic cranes that run on motor oil instead of hydraulic oil. They do not have any problems with foaming. The cranes are similar, and work just as good. I am thinking the tech manual of one of the hydraulic cranes has a table if you want to change it over to motor oil, . I was always under the impression that it would not work.I guess alot of places just run motor oil because it is cheaper to have only one kind of oil, they buy in bulk. I not trying to start an arguement but I have read in the forum alot of people seem to run alot of different stuff?
Glad to see you solved your problem - steering head bearings can cause some bad handling issues1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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