front end is weaving

[TheCafeKid]

If the levels are the same, doesn't have to be precision, and the spacers are the same length the 0.3 oz over wouldn't cause these problems unless it was hydrolocked which I doubt. Nuts, bolts, screws, and other loose type things I'd check first.

FTR my manual says you mix ATF with 10w30 in a 50/50 mix if you don't want to use fork oil.

scrapper: I don't question your familiarity and experience with bikes but as your original post said this is your first bike so everything is new for you. If your bike felt one way/good before you changed the front end and it feels different now then that's to be expected and likely stems from the changes you made. Perhaps the dampening is harder and your feeling the effects going over bumps, or perhaps it's in the springs which you put spacers in for. It's hard to tell what new riders expect their bike to feel like, it's even harder when they change things seeking that certain feel not considering the entire feel overall will change.

If it feels like something is loose then look for loose stuff, that's the only advice I got. Might as well be sure the spacers are equal length too, you shouldn't have to check but you didn't have a definite "yes they are the same length" so it's suggested you do.

Well then you're either mis-reading your manual, or your manual is misprinted. I have just about EVERY Suzuki OEM shop manual and Clymer manual printed for the GS, even for bikes i dont own, nor intend on ever purchasing. It clearly says 10W 15W OR Dexron ATF. Not that they cant be mixed, but its rather silly to do so. Also, it CLEARLY states that the amount of oil per fork should not exceed POINT ONE ounces more in one than the other, doing so will possibly cause axle stress/damage/breakage and bearing failure...So, if .1 oz of difference between the two can cause that, i wonder what .3 over filled would possibly do? Id rather not find out.

[tkent02]

Well then you're either mis-reading your manual, or your manual is misprinted. I have just about EVERY Suzuki OEM shop manual and Clymer manual printed for the GS, even for bikes i dont own, nor intend on ever purchasing. It clearly says 10W 15W OR Dexron ATF. Not that they cant be mixed, but its rather silly to do so. Also, it CLEARLY states that the amount of oil per fork should not exceed POINT ONE ounces more in one than the other, doing so will possibly cause axle stress/damage/breakage and bearing failure...So, if .1 oz of difference between the two can cause that, i wonder what .3 over filled would possibly do? Id rather not find out.

Some of the Suzuki manuals say 50/50 mix, ATF and motor oil. Sorry, can't remember the weight of oil recommended.

[TheCafeKid]

Some of the Suzuki manuals say 50/50 mix, ATF and motor oil. Sorry, can't remember the weight of oil recommended.

Ok, well apparently i DONT have those. And, why would they say that when fork oil was available back then? I dont get it but i didnt write em either. The manuals I have say nothing of mixing them, and again, i dont suppose it would hurt to do so, but straight ATF will work just as well.. *i* however recommend you use the oil that is INTENDED to go in forks...

[chef1366]

Get the tire balanced and make sure you are even with fluid and spacers in both forks. Also make sure they are in the triples the same and not binding.

[posplayr]

Josh,
One of my several manual also said 50:50 mix oil and ATF(read and re read and compared to be sure). After I changed the oil I'll never do that again though. Looked like a milk shake after only a brief time. Straight up fork oil for me from now on.
Jim

[themess]

You have little experience, and have changed many things without using the proper manual or the proper tools. The bike handled funny at low speeds, and you took it to 70 mph. Unless you slow down and do things methodically and carefully, you may hurt yourself quite badly.

GET. A. SHOP. MANUAL! (search the forum for threads on who prefers what, and where to get them. One might be available on-line.)

Read it and follow the instructions.

Get a torque wrench. Actually, you'll need two torque wrenches, for low and high torque. Again, search for threads on sources and types.

You didn't say who changed your tires. A properly balanced wheel will usually have only one weight, and never more than two. Search the forum for threads, or take the wheel and tire to a dealer and have them do it.

You could have put Progressive springs in your forks, but cut them down. It would have been very easy to have cut the springs differently. Big problem. Unless you can prove that the springs are now identical, they should be replaced.

And so on. Do one thing at a time, and do it carefully.

[salty_monk]

Sounds like you are also bolting things up the wrong way! You need to go top down... Axle is last!

Dan

[scrapper]

Okay, didn't relize I had been so bad? Just got the forks apart and everything looks fine? Spacers and springs are the same.Wheel bearing seem very tight, and spining ok. I went to store and got a torque wrench, one will have to do for now, will keep looking at everything everyone mentioned. Will work on it more tomorrow.I have a manual and do read it. It is alot of info on here to digest, know I am going to make mistakes. That is why I ask questions. I seem to remember somewhere someone was talking about tightening the front end from the bottom up. I am going to read up some more on the clymers book tonight to make sure it goes smoother. Thanks for the help so far.

[Don-lo]

The front jumping side to side sounds like loose steering bearings

[Clone]

You cut down the fork springs why?

Put in fork oil or ATF or hydraulic oil, they will not foam like engine oil will.

Check the fork bearings and the tubes to see if the sliders are ok.

Check the front wheel bearings.

Check the rear swing arm bearings.

You cut down the fork springs? Again why?

[TheCafeKid]

You cut down the fork springs why?

Put in fork oil or ATF or hydraulic oil, they will not foam like engine oil will.

Check the fork bearings and the tubes to see if the sliders are ok.

Check the front wheel bearings.

Check the rear swing arm bearings.

You cut down the fork springs? Again why?

I think the attempt was made to stiffen sacked springs...it will work to a point, but you have to use spacers to make up the difference. And, we're only talking A coil or MAYBE two...beyond that, you're playing with fire IMO...

[Big T]

You live in a large enough city - just go down to a bike shop and buy fork oil.

Don't mess around with ATF or mixing anything - what's the point?

Remember, it's hydraulic fluid and not motor oil - they are two different things

Then, carefully reassemble your front end, starting with the head bearings

Don't be afraid to ask more questions - some members have a tendency to wander from the subject matter in their answers

And go to BassCliff's site and see if he has a shop manual for you.

[scrapper]

Ok, I got it back together and went for a small test drive. It seems ok now. It was the oil or the bearings in the head. I changed it to atf. I think it was the bearings the lock ring was loose. I torqued everything though. I was wondering if I did this right or wrong? I put the forks up in the head lightly tighted the top pich bolts to hold them in place. I then tightened the lock ring a little and then torqued the bolt then tighten the ring a little more, the front end turned really easy no problems. I then tighten the forks from the top down. Checked tire and it was spining straight. I did not notice any play in any parts. cuting the springs down and putting the spacers in seems to have stiffened the front end which is what I wanted.It does not hop on big bumps. I made sure to hit a really rough road no problems. I did not break any teeth off either. I am wondering about one thing which is the lock ring I did not find in the manual but I did think was correct to tighten it down not up. I wanted to check to make sure.It is a lock nut so I guess it could be used one way or the other to lock it. The rubber piece is why I'm asking. I would think you would want to lock it to a piece of metal not against the rubber ring or washer.Thank you all for helping , I don't mind the constructive critizism. It helps keep me on my toes.

[scrapper]

I am wondering about the oil thing,I work in a scrap yard and we run a couple of hydraulic cranes that run on motor oil instead of hydraulic oil. They do not have any problems with foaming. The cranes are similar, and work just as good. I am thinking the tech manual of one of the hydraulic cranes has a table if you want to change it over to motor oil, . I was always under the impression that it would not work.I guess alot of places just run motor oil because it is cheaper to have only one kind of oil, they buy in bulk. I not trying to start an arguement but I have read in the forum alot of people seem to run alot of different stuff?

[Big T]

I am wondering about the oil thing,I work in a scrap yard and we run a couple of hydraulic cranes that run on motor oil instead of hydraulic oil. They do not have any problems with foaming. The cranes are similar, and work just as good. I am thinking the tech manual of one of the hydraulic cranes has a table if you want to change it over to motor oil, . I was always under the impression that it would not work.I guess alot of places just run motor oil because it is cheaper to have only one kind of oil, they buy in bulk. I not trying to start an arguement but I have read in the forum alot of people seem to run alot of different stuff?

You're right about that - essentially, they are all oils - ATF , hydraulic fluid, motor oil. They just have some different properties


Glad to see you solved your problem - steering head bearings can cause some bad handling issues