carb syncing

[Guest]

Broke down and BOUGHT a manometer today. Opened the package and I had to prep this thing for use! Cut the lines to length, install restrictors in the lines, and it's missing an o ring from one of the adapters. For God's sake when you cough up that much coin, it should be plug and play!!
#1 Do you need to adjust the slides when doing this?
#2 Next is adjusting the idle air screws, correct?
Yes, new intake orings, full rebuild with new parts, good boots, ect

[TheCafeKid]

1) Sync has NOTHING to do with idle air screws, fuel screws, etc etc. It only has to do with how much the slides are open in relation to eachother and in relation to how much vaccum each cylinder is pulling. You need to balance the pull because inherantly the cylinders arent going to be the same.

2) yes, you will need to adjust the slide adjustment screws at the top of each slide. You'll need a 9?mm wrench and a GOOD flat blade screwdriver that fits WELL...

Once you have them synced (and you're LUCKY youre doing this the first time on mech carbs...vac carbs SUCK to balance) then you can play with your adjustment screws some more...

[Nessism]

Yes, you need to adjust the slides. Remove the top cap off the carbs to do this. VM's are easier to sync than CV's in my opinion. I'd adjust the sync after setting the air screws to achieve the highest idle. If the air screws seem unresponsive in terms of tweaking the idle speed, set them all to the same relative position and do the sync.

[crapwacker]

Thanks. I thought that since I didn't mess with the adjustment screws for the slides I wouldn't have to sync them. Anyhow, it'll be done and at least one less variable in the equation

[TheCafeKid]

you remove the slides, you must resync. While its easier to sync your carbs, tuning for pods and a pipe is made more of a PITA because you have to resync every time you change the needle position.

[crapwacker]

Oh and I bout a nice Fieldsheer jacket today as well

[TheCafeKid]

you got a helmet??

[crapwacker]

so I should move the needle up before I synch

[ryonker]

Hey Crapwacker, which one did you get?

The air screw has really nothing to do with the carb sync.

If you got the motion pro, you will need to follow directions on syncing the fluid levels first off of one carb.

You will need to pull the caps/tops off of all 4 carbs. Once you have the sync set up and hooked up, you start with carb #3. Looking down on the carb there is a small standard screw and a locking nut. You loosen the nut and adjust the sync by turning the screw.

Then sync carb #2 off of #3 by evening out the fluid height levels till they are equal.

Then sync to carb#1 and then carb #4. Most have carb #1 and #4 slightly higher (but equal) then carbs 2 and 3 (which should be equal in height).

The challenge is keeping the heights right while tightening the lock nuts. There is a tool that helps with this but you can do it just fine..you need to hold the screw driver in and use a small wrench to tighten the nut.

Rick

[crapwacker]

OF COURSE! Nice fitting M2R GP1, bought it the week before my test

[crapwacker]

Yes a motion pro. Price wasn't much more than I'd seen them for online

[ryonker]

so I should move the needle up before I synch

What needle?

[crapwacker]

the needle is now set at 2nd notch. thecafekid suggested moving the clip down to the 3rd

[crapwacker]

oh and I installed new exhaust gaskets, the old ones, especially #2, were fried

[TheCafeKid]

Move the needle before you sync. You're too lean. I promise.