Twisted crank? '82 GS1100E

[Bert Patterson]

So does anyone know the date or number after which they welded the crank?

[TheCafeKid]

Not exactly...BUT, supposedly anything AFTER June of 82, and with the motor number higher than 14K have a VERY HIGH chance of having the big end welded crank in them.. Bert, you can tell simply by pulling the Stator cover...

[Bert Patterson]

Not exactly...BUT, supposedly anything AFTER June of 82, and with the motor number higher than 14K have a VERY HIGH chance of having the big end welded crank in them.. Bert, you can tell simply by pulling the Stator cover...

I may. Always looking for the easiest approach.

She runs sweet, but I'm just curious.

[Steve]

Can I just LOOK to see if it's welded? I've never checked

You would have to be able to see the crankshaft to "see" if it's welded, that would require at least a top-end disassembly.

But, probably just as important as knowing whether your crank is welded, is knowing whether you have a problem.
The easiest way is as Baatfam mentioned, just remove the plugs from #1 and #4, use a pencil or wooden dowel to measure the distance to the top of the piston. Compare the two, they should be the same.

I helped a member do a valve adjustment and carb sync on his 1000 a couple of years ago. When we got done, there was still quite a bit of vibration, so I double-checked everything. Yeah the valve clearances had changed, but they all changed by the same amount, so that was not a problem. The carbs were still sync'ed just fine. Moved plug wires, no change. Finally pulled plugs to swap them around, and noticed that the pistons were not the same height. Needless to say, he was not pleased with the diagnosis, but was at least happy to know what the problem was. I have not kept in contact with him to see if he ever fixed it.

.

[mriddle]

will it sound like a harley too?

got it. So it will run like total ass, vibrate like hell, and feel like im riding a 550

[woodman]

No and its a very different kind of high frequency vibration, I have a Fatboy too. How do you tell by taking the stator cover off, all I see is the crank end and a seal ?

[TheCafeKid]

the rotor threads will tell you...

[jwhelan65]

My 82 1100e has 28,000 miles on it, the date on the serial plate is partially rubbed off. all I can make out is a 2. So its either a Feb or Dec. Is there any other way to know other than a tear down? Bike seems to run fine.

[rapidray]

My 82 1100e has 28,000 miles on it, the date on the serial plate is partially rubbed off. all I can make out is a 2. So its either a Feb or Dec. Is there any other way to know other than a tear down? Bike seems to run fine.

If it IS an 82, it will NOT have been built in December! That would be an 83. Ray.

[bonanzadave]

There is a ton of info in the search on twisted crank. I think we kicked around engine serial numbers trying to find where the the welding started.

Mine was unwelded and twisted 146884.

[jwhelan65]

Thanks Ray Feb it is..than I guess my crank is prone to twisting...no one should have to go through life with a twisted crank!

[DMorris]

I don't know how to check for a welded crank without cracking the case, but the accuracy of crank throw timing can be checked with a degree wheel and a piston stop without major disassembly.
I built a piston stop by knocking the guts out of a spark plug and replacing them with a long allen head bolt epoxyed in place so that it projects maybe an inch into the combustion chamber. Mount the degree wheel, pull all the plugs, and install the piston stop in cylinder #1. Rotate the crank forward SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the piston touches the piston stop. Hold that position until you have recorded the reading indicated on the degree wheel. Now rotate the crank backward until the piston again touches the piston stop (again, SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY) and record the reading from the wheel. You will note that these two readings form a pie wedge on the degree wheel. Divide the angle in half and mark the result on the degree wheel and you have TDC. 180 degrees from that is BDC. If you repeat this process for each of the other cylinders, you will know to a high level of accuracy how your crank throws are timed.

This method is much more accurate than trying to find TDC with a depth guage because as the crank approaches TDC and BDC, the piston is moving very little in relation to the crank rotation. This method takes its readings where there is still significant piston movement on either side of TDC.

[Mysuzyq]

FWIW, I read in one of the old mags that mentioned this problem, an abrupt chopping of throttle from very high speed could also apparently cause it, apart from sudden loads like wheelies etc.
I've heard its possible to visually check the crank for welds, from the clutch side, with the basket removed. I haven't done this, but run with the assumption that it isn't welded, and try to ride & plan any performance mods accordingly.
Tony.

[posplayr]

This method is much more accurate than trying to find TDC with a depth guage because as the crank approaches TDC and BDC, the piston is moving very little in relation to the crank rotation. This method takes its readings where there is still significant piston movement on either side of TDC.

I actually set my piston stop length to catch the piston at 1/2 stroke which is where accuracy is highest.

[chef1366]

As Baatfam stated you can see the welds if you remove the clutch basket.