clean/rebuild carbs

[joviyach]

Hello,

I am completely new to this. I am slowly restoring an 82' GS650G that I inherited from my father, and I am not very mechanically inclined, but I want to have a go at this myself rather than just pay someone to do it.

That being said... I am looking for recommendations for what I should use to clean the carbs before rebuilding them. I have read some reviews and posts elsewhere about Sea Foam and some other stuff, my father says that there should be some kits for soaking the carbs, but it has been years since he's actually done this. Any advice/help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

[hampshirehog]

Hi Jim. You need to strip the carbs right down to their component parts and clean everything spotlessly. In the US you can get a specialist carb dip - we can't in the UK so I have to use loads of degreasant / detergent and boil my carbs in a saucepan.
Best rebuilt with new O rings etc and remember to keep everything clean.

Carb rebuild tutorial is here: http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

(Very similar carbs to yours).

[MacGyver]

I used Gunk Hydro Seal (http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp?img=LG_HS3.jpg) when I did my rebuild. A friend claimed that Varsol would work as well, just take a bit longer. Varsol is less than $10 for a bottle, the Hydro Seal cost me $50 (Canadian), your choice. The Hydro Seal did disolve my nitrile gloves and removed the silicone sealant the previous owner had put on the choke plungers. If it is a very dirty carb, it may be worth the extra for a proper cleaner and peice of mind. The process isn't difficult, it just takes time, attention to detail, and care.

Follow my recent experiences here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141950

[hikermikem]

Go to your local auto-parts store (Advanced Auto or the like...) and pick up a can of carb dip. Gunk makes one that works good, others here find Berryman's to be superior. You'll find it right next to the carb spray cans - look for the gallon sized can that states carburator dip on the label - about $20.

Follow the tutorial Mr. hampshirehog posted the link to - not the exact same carbs as your, but essentially the same (FYI - you have CV carbs)

Contact Robert Barr (a member here): http://www.cycleorings.com/ and order new carb o-rings AND new intake o-rings as well.

Get 4 new OEM float bowl gaskets from a Suzuki dealer (about $5 ea), and along with the o-rings you'll get from Robert, that's pretty much everything you'll need to rebuild your carbs. Don't waste your money on those e-bay rebuild kits.

Look and see if the carbs have the factory sealed plug still installed over the mixture screws - that will need to be removed if it's still intact.

Lots & lots of great folks here to guide you and answer all your questions.

Good luck,

Mike

[blizzard]

Hello,

I am completely new to this. I am slowly restoring an 82' GS650G that I inherited from my father, and I am not very mechanically inclined, but I want to have a go at this myself rather than just pay someone to do it.

That being said... I am looking for recommendations for what I should use to clean the carbs before rebuilding them. I have read some reviews and posts elsewhere about Sea Foam and some other stuff, my father says that there should be some kits for soaking the carbs, but it has been years since he's actually done this. Any advice/help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

If I were you I would start by getting a shop manual for the year and model of your bike, look on basscliff's site first there are several shop manuals and also some owners manuals that you can download for free.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

These manuals can be very helpful when you are working on something you are not real familiar with. Basscliff's site itself has a ton of helpful information from many different sources and there is a lot of carb rebuilding information on there as well.
Good luck!

[joviyach]

Boots?

Are the boots mentioned in the documentation hard to find? When the bike was running, my father said that it was running rough as though it has some kind of air/vacuum leak and he thought it might be these boots.

[hikermikem]

Are the boots mentioned in the documentation hard to find? When the bike was running, my father said that it was running rough as though it has some kind of air/vacuum leak and he thought it might be these boots.

You can still get new OEM boots, getting them removed from the intake side of the engine can be a PITA. Take care not to strip the screw heads when removing them off the engine. An impact driver may be needed. Also, a can of "PB blaster" (available at auto parts stores) will become a very good friend of yours as well. Spray all the screws/bolts/nuts with the PB Blaster a day or two before you start to "wrench." (Pick up a tube of "anti-seize" too, and use it on all the threaded fasteners when you re-assemble. You will thank yourself later, when you go to remove all those screws/nuts/bolts down the road at some point.)

Once the boots are off, see if they're soft & pliable or hard & cracked. Most likely the "hard & flat" o-rings on the flange side of the boots are leaking air - be sure to replace them with ones from Robert Barr.

A good source for OEM parts (boots, float bowl gaskets) is: http://www.partshark.com/fiche_select.asp

I would also buy an OEM valve cover & breather cover gasket and adjust the valves - very important step, particuarly if it's not been done for a long time.

Their shipping can be a bit slow, but their prices are the best.