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    GS1000 ignition Timing

    Is it me, or are the instructions in the service manual confusing on doing this procedure.

    #2
    It could be you or the directions what seems to be the problem ?

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      #3
      I am a little confused at where I set the gap. For instance the first step says to set the gap for the nos 1&4 points. When? When the mark is at F 1~4? OK, I set the gap, But then the next step says to move the plate CC until the points just start to open. Well they were already open.

      And what is the difference between TDC and BTDC?
      Last edited by Guest; 07-07-2009, 04:35 PM.

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        #4
        Top dead centre & before top dead centre
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
          Top dead centre & before top dead centre
          Thanks, Salty. I'll give it another go.

          Comment


            #6
            Usually epressed as a number of degrees. For example 6 degrees BTDC.
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #7
              I'm doing the same thing on my 78 1000 right now. I believe the manual says to start with the l/h side points first (1&4) rotate until they are at the widest gap and set it to .035mm. then rotate the engine again with the test light or meter connected and find where they just open at. The fixed timing mark should now line up with the mark just to the left of the F 1-4. If not adjust by moving (rotate) the whole plate with the screws at 12, 4, & 8 oclock. Same deal with 2&3 except to adjust point opening position you move the half plate on the r/h side of the assembly and you use the line to the left of F 2-3. Loosen the screws just enough to move the plates, always rotate clockwise, and check it a few times. Hope this makes sense.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jetmech View Post
                I'm doing the same thing on my 78 1000 right now. I believe the manual says to start with the l/h side points first (1&4) rotate until they are at the widest gap and set it to .035mm. then rotate the engine again with the test light or meter connected and find where they just open at. The fixed timing mark should now line up with the mark just to the left of the F 1-4. If not adjust by moving (rotate) the whole plate with the screws at 12, 4, & 8 oclock. Same deal with 2&3 except to adjust point opening position you move the half plate on the r/h side of the assembly and you use the line to the left of F 2-3. Loosen the screws just enough to move the plates, always rotate clockwise, and check it a few times. Hope this makes sense.

                Thanks a lot, makes sense now!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I set them up correctly, but one does not spark at all. They are worn, time for some new ones. And yet again I have to order more parts, and wait for them to come in. But, in the higher rev range, it did miss some every now and again on 2&3, so I suspect, that this set of breaker points was intermittent. So with new points, hopefully she will not hiccup at all.
                  Last edited by Guest; 07-07-2009, 11:20 PM.

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