Help removing valve seals

[ameen]

I am working on a '82 gs550. I got the valves and springs out, but how do i get the valve seal off without breaking anything??

I looked in the manual and it showed taking out the valve guides. I tried tapping them out gently but didn't want to break anything.

Thanks

[rapidray]

Use needle nose pliers to remove the seals & do NOT touch the guides! They have NOTHING to do with changing the seals. Ray.

[ameen]

soo...just clamp down and pull?

[triffecpa]

if the seals have the metal cap all around the outside, I would try and cut it with a dremel or something. The ones with the metal caps are a bugger to get off. I did the "grab it and pull" thing and broke a couple of valve guides (8v GS1000).

Tracy

[49er]

soo...just clamp down and pull?

The points of circlip pliers work well too. The type that have the points at a right angle to the handle. Just slip the points down the side of the seal and pull lightly towards you. Once it tilts slightly on the guide, shift to the opposite side and repeat the process. The seals actually come free quite easily this way. Just avoid excessive force on one side only.

[chef1366]

If you got the springs out you've reached the easy part. Just a piece of rubber with a little spring in it.

[rapidray]

If you got the springs out you've reached the easy part. Just a piece of rubber with a little spring in it.

Bill, the 8 valvers use a METAL sheathed seal. They aren't all rubber like the 16 valve motors. They can be fun to get off. Ray.

[chef1366]

I did a set in an 86 GS450. Didn't realize some are metal.
Thanks Ray

[bwringer]

To remove valve stem seals (the metal-clad ones), I took a huge pair of cheap needlenose pliers and undercut the tips with a Dremel tool. Grab, yank, done.

[doctorgonzo]

I had to take the torch to mine and burn all the rubber off, then pry off the metal that remained. They were a bugger.

[mike_of_bbg]

I used unaltered pliers for a couple. You have to twist a bit and grab pretty hard. Mind you, you don't want to scratch that outer surface.

I had a paint can opener lying around which worked pretty well on the rest. It's the kind they give away for free at home depot. The little end lip did a good job getting under the seal and pulling it up.

[jpaul]

I have a set similar to these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94500

I find them invaluable for prying things loose from spots my fingers won't fit.

[ameen]

loads of good help. Thanks guys, ill have another go at it tonight

[Dogma]

I just did these a couple weeks ago. Use needle-nose pliers to rip the rubber and garter spring off the top of the seal. Then use needle-nose vise-grips to lock onto the metal can of the seal. Obviously, be careful not to grab the guide. The vise-grips will crush the top of the can, and make a flat tab for vise-grips to hold on to. Lock onto the tail of the needle-nose vise-grips with another pair of vise-grips, and tap on that pair from below with a heavy hammer. Basically just improvise a slide hammer with vise-grips. I had the best results when I pulled the seal over the guide by about 15° instead of straight off. Some seals came off on the first pull, others slid out of the vise-grips three or four times. The rubber inside the can makes the grip a little unpredictable.

I tried using a pick, but it just unbent the hook. I like the idea of the bent-nose snap ring pliers. That sounds like the safe way, if you can find a pair to fit.

[hampshirehog]

My method is to grab the blighters with a pair of pliers and try and twist them around. Once they've 'unlocked' they normally come off pretty easy.