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    #31
    Originally posted by rkj2002 View Post
    That looks great, does it have the same amount of wires? I should ground right to the battery, yes?, and then one trigger wire and three stator wires. Should I hard wire everything, you did, right?

    Thank you
    The wires are the same. Solder an extension wire onto the ground, and solder an eye loop on the end that's big enough to fit onto the battery's negative terminal bolt. I clip the bullet connectors off the rr wires, and then solder on spade-type female connectors (you can get them at Ace Hardware, among other places). I solder male spades onto the stator wires. They are protected with plastic over the metal parts, and I use heat shrink wrap over the soldered joint where the wire feeds into the connector for true water-tightness.

    I like to use the spade connectors because they work well, yet still allow access to the wiring for easy troubleshooting.


    If all goes well, replacing the stator and rr is a good afternoon's work. Make sure you have a new stator cover gasket before you start, an impact driver to remove the bolts that hold the stator inside the cover, and some blue loctite for stator bolt reinstallation. If you choose to go the spade connector route, don't solder the connectors onto the stator wires until you feed the wires through the little rubber wire guide that goes in the stator cover. You'll know what I'm talking about once you get the cover off.

    Good luck.
    GS450E GS650E GS700ES GS1000E GS1000G GS1100G GS1100E
    KZ550A KZ700A GPZ750
    CB400T CB900F
    XJ750R

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      #32
      Originally posted by Griffin View Post
      The wires are the same. Solder an extension wire onto the ground, and solder an eye loop on the end that's big enough to fit onto the battery's negative terminal bolt. I clip the bullet connectors off the rr wires, and then solder on spade-type female connectors (you can get them at Ace Hardware, among other places). I solder male spades onto the stator wires. They are protected with plastic over the metal parts, and I use heat shrink wrap over the soldered joint where the wire feeds into the connector for true water-tightness.

      I like to use the spade connectors because they work well, yet still allow access to the wiring for easy troubleshooting.


      If all goes well, replacing the stator and rr is a good afternoon's work. Make sure you have a new stator cover gasket before you start, an impact driver to remove the bolts that hold the stator inside the cover, and some blue loctite for stator bolt reinstallation. If you choose to go the spade connector route, don't solder the connectors onto the stator wires until you feed the wires through the little rubber wire guide that goes in the stator cover. You'll know what I'm talking about once you get the cover off.

      Good luck.
      Thank you so much for totally hooking me up (and everybody), I'll report back.... Rick

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