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    Too much gas cause bogginga and overflow?

    So i took off my petcock, and it was missing the spring that pushes the diaphram shut when there is no vaccuum.

    The bike was bogging down at medium to high rpms in every gear, almost unridable. could excess gas cause bogging? i thought the floats would shut?

    or do my floats need work too?

    Also i am pretty sure that the petcock problem cause the overflow too. Can any1 back up this statement?

    I ordered a brand new OEM petcock and its coming soon

    Thanks

    #2
    Originally posted by newGS300Lowner View Post
    So i took off my petcock, and it was missing the spring that pushes the diaphram shut when there is no vaccuum.

    The bike was bogging down at medium to high rpms in every gear, almost unridable. could excess gas cause bogging? i thought the floats would shut?

    or do my floats need work too?

    Also i am pretty sure that the petcock problem cause the overflow too. Can any1 back up this statement?

    I ordered a brand new OEM petcock and its coming soon

    Thanks
    The petcock wouldn't cause any running problems. At best a bad petcock combined with leaking float needles will cause gas to overflow into the air box or engine--ending up in the oil if it goes this route.

    Sorry to say your gonna have to dig in a bit further to fix your bog, no easy fix down this path

    Your on the right path by suspecting your carbs.

    Comment


      #3
      So do you recommend checking the jets, or will the floats just be satisfactory?

      Thanks

      Comment


        #4
        The jets are probably fine. Clean the carbs.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          but i thought the jets are in the carbs, so do you just basically mean check the float levels and such???

          Im a beginner and don't know too much about anything

          Thanks

          Comment


            #6
            Yes the jets are in the carbs. Did the bike sit for a while? Even over the winter can cause varnishing. Pulling the carbs off and cleaning them may be nessisary. When you change your petcock, check to see if there is a lot of rust or debris on the inlet filter. If there is, this may be the source of many of your problems. if you have minimal grit and grime, you may want to instal an inline fuel filter. Also, what condition is your air filter in? Also, you can check for air leaks as well, with the bike running at idle, spray some starting fluid, or carb cleaner(carefully and lightly) around the engine side of the carbs. And check out BassCliff's website.
            http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ much to be learned here. It has made me a master!(laughs). But seriously, I have picked up so much on this site, and because there is so much on here , it make it hard to sift through it all.

            Comment


              #7
              Thank you so much.

              My petcock was in decent shape, the filter was a deep yellow/orange color. There is not a lot of grit and grime so i will probably install an inline fuel filter.

              As for the air filter. The PO had apparantly just cut up a piece of foam to the shape and stuck it in there. I have ordered the correct air filter along with a new OEM petcock and they should be coming soon.

              Do you recommend i check the float levels? (because the bike leaked gas, and i thought the floats should shut, preventing excess gas from getting in the carbs, because the old petcock did not stop the fuel flow when the bike was not running.)

              The bike runs perfectly in idle except that when i give it some throttle past a point, it won't increase rpm. Which it does in every gear also

              Thanks

              Comment


                #8
                Many times when the petcock fails it dumps fuel down the vacuum line and into the engine. Regarding your carbs, it's always a good idea to go though them so you KNOW they are okay, instead of guessing.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  ok thank you.

                  I plan on checking my float levels too.

                  I have looked at some threads here that say that when you set the float levels to factory specs, they might not always be right.

                  Some other threads here mention a clear tube test to determine the right float height or something along those lines.

                  Can anybody elaborate?

                  i have no idea what a clear tube test is or any other way to set the float height besides factory specs.

                  Also does any1 happen to have the factory spec for float levels on an 1982 GS300L or know where to find them? i dont have the owner's/service manual.

                  Thanks

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Also do you guys recommend changing the oil again, even though i did it when i bought the bike and havn't even put on 10 miles since, because of the possibility of gas in the oil?

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by newGS300Lowner View Post
                      Some other threads here mention a clear tube test to determine the right float height or something along those lines.

                      Can anybody elaborate?
                      When you adjust the FLOAT height (sometimes refered to as the DRY setting), what you are really doing is trying to get the proper level of fuel in the float bowls (without actually putting fuel in the carb). Setting the FLOAT height according to the spec s-h-o-u-l-d give the proper FUEL level in the float bowl for the carb to function properly.

                      The "clear tube test" is the way to actually measure the FUEL level in the float bowl with fuel flowing in the carb. It is sometimes refered to the WET setting.

                      When you measure the DRY setting you have the carb upside down and are measuring the distance the FLOAT is a-b-o-v-e the float bowl mating surface.

                      When you measure the WET setting you have the carb right side up with the fuel turned on and are measuring the distance the FUEL level is b-e-l-o-w the float bowl mating surface.

                      The FUEL level is important because it is the pressure of the atmosphere pressing on the fuel level that effects the various circuits in the carb. So you want all the carbs' fuel levels to be as close to correct and equal as you can get them.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by newGS300Lowner View Post
                        Also do you guys recommend changing the oil again, even though i did it when i bought the bike and havn't even put on 10 miles since, because of the possibility of gas in the oil?

                        Thanks

                        if a lot of gas got in the oil you would have a high oil level is this the case?
                        if not then dont change the oil needlessly
                        if you have doubts at all as to the previous level of oil then change it

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by pdqford View Post
                          The "clear tube test" is the way to actually measure the FUEL level in the float bowl with fuel flowing in the carb. It is sometimes refered to the WET setting.
                          For NewGS's clarification, this 'clear tube test' is either drilling a hole in a screw you can put in the float bowl drain and putting a piece of tubing on it or getting the right fitting the accomplish the same task. When the bike is level, you hold the tube up next to the carburetor and you can see exactly how much fuel is in the float and measure it. It is kind of equivalent to bench syncing (dry float) vs. manometer syncing (wet float) your carbs.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ok, then i will just set the floats to the spec float heights, which i found in the sticky carb oem specs thread.

                            I will check the oil level, and if it is high, because i remember where it was when i first filled it up, i will change the oil

                            Is there any issues with having gas in the oil? Could it be possibly damagin?
                            Last edited by Guest; 07-14-2009, 12:23 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Also, quick questions.

                              What instrument is best used for measuring the float height?


                              and, you measure the float height from the tip of the clip, to the bottom of the float bowl, with or without the gasket???

                              Thanks

                              Comment

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