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    A couple of clutch questions

    I plan on removing the clutch cover and replacing the springs with new stock, hopefully this will take care of the super stiff clutch I have now. (cable runs smooth and free)

    The clutch also grabs in first and I can't seem to adjust it out enough so that it won't grab but also won't slip, anything I should look at as a possible culprit while I'm in there?

    Anything I should order with the springs that I should replace anyways? (things could be really old in there)

    Also I can't seem to find the clutch cover gasket on bike bandit, do they have one? If not where should I get it?

    Thanks a ton for any help!!

    Mike

    #2
    Try mrcycles.com for the gasket.
    I'd take out the fibers, check them with a caliper and check the steels for warpage.
    The spec for the fibers will be in your manual.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      If you have an impact gun you might wanna try snugging up the hub nut.
      82 1100 EZ (red)

      "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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        #4
        use a torq wrench on that hub nut, propper is better, look at the basket , and look for grooves where the fiber plates slide in, if there are grooves they will keep the plates forom sliding right, that will cause drag,and keep the clutch from working right, you can file them smooth again if there not bad, new springs is a good idea

        also check the routing of the cable its self! this will change the cable so dramatically!, check these things and let use know

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          #5
          gasket

          i had to go to the suzuki dealer for the clutch cover gasket. they seem to have a lock down on them out here.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by MFerioli View Post
            I plan on removing the clutch cover and replacing the springs with new stock, hopefully this will take care of the super stiff clutch I have now. (cable runs smooth and free)

            The clutch also grabs in first and I can't seem to adjust it out enough so that it won't grab but also won't slip, anything I should look at as a possible culprit while I'm in there?

            Anything I should order with the springs that I should replace anyways? (things could be really old in there)

            Also I can't seem to find the clutch cover gasket on bike bandit, do they have one? If not where should I get it?

            Thanks a ton for any help!!

            Mike
            Might be a good find to get a complete gasket set. So you have any on hand, for checking valve clearances, ect. There's one HERE https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gs&category=engine
            for $60

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              #7
              Thanks for all the ideas.

              I found a gasket on Z1, I probably should buy a whole set, but I just did replace the valve cover gasket and the cam chain tensioner gasket.

              I'll definitely be checking for basket grooves and plate thickness deviations.

              What I noticed about the stiffness is that if I disconnect the cable at the case and try and move the little clutch arm by hand, its really tough. I have to use my foot to push the thing. It feels smooth, just stiff, which seems to support the spring theory. The cable seems fine, as it pulls nice and easy once I disconnect it, even if I simulate pressure on it from the case end.

              Is it best to replace all the fiber plates at the same time, or just any that are out of spec?

              Comment


                #8
                FYI, I did find the gasket on bike bandit under the "crankase-cover" fiche.

                Bike Bandit - $14.03

                Z1 - $2.73

                I hope the one I got from Z1 is correct and of decent quality.

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                  #9
                  I changed the clutch springs yesterday...no difference. Everything else looked ok, there was some wear on the basket, but not enough to cause the fibers to grab.

                  I do have some kind of aftermarket clutch lever assembly (on there when I bought it) that is smaller than the stock one. Could this not be providing adequate leverage? Also maybe the range is not adeqaute to provide full seperation.

                  The oil and filter seemed really old and the clutch seemed to grab less with fresh oil in there. Has anyone noticed old oil causing extra friction?

                  I'll be looking for an original clutch lever assembly for sure.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Got a picture?
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                      #11
                      Unfortunately I don't. I might be able to take one later when I get home, if it stops raining.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have read that detergent and friction modifiers in automotive oil can cause clutch issues. When you had the clutch apart did you check the thickness of the plates?

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                          #13
                          What kind of oil did you use?? If you put some of that "energy conserving" garbage in there, wich i made the mistake of doing once, it will slip.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I forget the oil brand. I got it off the shelf at a local suzuki dealer, it was just standard 10w-40 motorcycle oil.

                            Unfortunately I didn't have the necessary tools to check the plate thickness. But all the metals and fibers looked to be in good shape. Metals were flat and the fibers were all worn evenly.

                            Really worn fibers would cause slippage and not grabbage right??

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I had the same problem on one of my old Honda Cb's. It had a different perch on it with a lever that wasn't designed for the perch, so the leverage point was way off...just an Idea.

                              Jeff (teet)

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