FH-011AA R?R install success sort of

[posplayr]

Rusty,
As is common knowledge, the GS changing system barely provides any power at idle . Small changes in idle between 1100-1300 RPM can cause the typically 1 amp current to flow to Battery R/R (+) (e.g. 1300 RPM) to as much as 1 amp discharge at lower RPM (e.g. 1100 RPM).

So testing for voltage drops between the battery and R/R is ineffective as there can be little to no current flow at idle. The main issue in fact is that there is minimal voltage drops at full output. This point appears to have escaped the original authors of the stator pages and the contribution I attempted to make in the rewrite.

Jim

[salty_monk]

My bikes charge in the high 13's with no problems.

With 13.3v with the lights on I don't think you'll have an issue if you are on a decent run, maybe if you're doing lots of short hops low rev/town work.

Dan

[earlfor]

My bikes charge in the high 13's with no problems.

With 13.3v with the lights on I don't think you'll have an issue if you are on a decent run, maybe if you're doing lots of short hops low rev/town work.

Dan

With a well charged battery, my 1150 always charged at 13.3 volts cruising down the highway. I had the constant readout voltmeter in the dash for the last three years I had the bike and never had any kind of charging problems.
l
Ear

[posplayr]

While, I can understand that 13.3V will create a certain amount of trickle current flow (e.g. 1 amp) into the battery, that does not represent the ability to do strong charging (2-3 amps minimum).

While stable (keeps the battery topped off), 13.3V going down the road does represent an impaired charging system most likely due to high resistance between battery and R/R (+).

As I noted in the revised stator papers, 14.0V should be considered minimum charging voltage at 5000 RPM.

[bakalorz]

I have run auxilliary lights on a couple of my previous Yammies. As the charging systems were also pitifully inadequate I couldn't run them for any length of time. As I don't ride much, if ever, at night time I really only used them as extra conspicuity. I got into the habit of flipping them on as I came up on stop lights or in areas of heavy traffic flow.

I was going to do the same with the GS but haven't as yet made the move. I have just gone through the charging issues thing and don't want to compromise what I have finally arrived at so LEDs seem the logical choice. I found these which might work:

http://www.creativelightings.com/12vDC-LED-Motorcycle-Light-Pod-5-LEDs-3-Pack-p/cl-12vpod-rec-3pc.htm

Cheap enough for a test I figure.

On the XS website, the guys are always trying to lighten the load so there are many LED conversions underway. LED bulbs are still abit spendy but I think its the right way to go for all old iron.

Actually I think the way to go may be replacing headlights with HID conversions.
There are 2 power levels available, 35 watts and 55 watts.

My reading seems to indicate that the 35 watt ones are maybe 2 times as bright as a 55 watt halogen, and the 55 watt ones about 4 times or so as bright.

Using a 55 watter would increase visibility a lot, or use 35 watts for a bit brighter headlight than stock, and then get 2 or so amps to play with for other lights or accessories.

I am pretty seriously considering getting one, the big holdup for me is that they probably don't work right with headlight modulators.

I will probably get one in the end and rig up a special jury rigged modulator.
Even if it shortens the life of the HID, as long as it doesn't blow up immediately, I could probably live with that.
On the plus side, the HID should have much sharper HI/Low transitions, the thermal mass of the wire in the bulb is to high for it to modulate as fast as it should, so it ramps up and down 4 times a second.

Sigh ... So many projects so little time.

[earlfor]

I am pretty seriously considering getting one, the big holdup for me is that they probably don't work right with headlight modulators.

I will probably get one in the end and rig up a special jury rigged modulator.
Even if it shortens the life of the HID, as long as it doesn't blow up immediately, I could probably live with that.
On the plus side, the HID should have much sharper HI/Low transitions, the thermal mass of the wire in the bulb is to high for it to modulate as fast as it should, so it ramps up and down 4 times a second.

Sigh ... So many projects so little time.

I have my doubts that a Hid will work with a modulator because the flash rate on a modulator is much faster than the acquisition time on a HID.
If it does by chance function but flash at a lower rate, it will be illegal due to strict federal specifications for the flash rate.

Earl