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Hard start and Floods on lots of throttle

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    #1

    Hard start and Floods on lots of throttle

    I have a 1981 650 and I have been having a bit of problems, the bike always starts but takes some time to kick up. when i give it a bit of fuel or run the choke it sounds like it has no chance of starting, I think it is electrical, I took it in to the dealer and they tested everying and the only thing that wasnt running properly was the ignition coil. This was repalced, the bike seems to have more kick now when i starts and when i give it throttle, but it still boggs down and floods when i go more then half throttle. I had the carbs cleaned last year and adjusted this year. New plugs and ignition coil this year and new battery and alt last year. I cant think of anything else it would be. He said the rectifier was working good. Maybe the relay? Help. I want to be able to get that front tire off the ground.
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    #2
    Hey, thanks for the quick response. I was away for the weekend so i was unable to reply, I unfortunately do not have a voltmeter, but will pick one up after work tomorrow. Another unfortunate thing is i don't have a working tach right now haha, I can kind of guess where 5K is, or does it have to be accurate? Hopefully tomorrow night i can get you those numbers, thanks again for your reply. And i am from Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada

    Comment

      #3
      Greetings and Salutations!!

      Hi Mr. PoppaDre,

      Call me an old fuddy-duddy, but I would take care of that 30 year old motorcycle properly and forget about getting the front wheel off the ground. Do a search of this forum (or check my website) for "spline gear" and you'll see why. Now how about a friendly "welcome thang"?

      Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

      Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

      Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment

        #4
        Check the Mechanical advance and make sure it moves freely.
        Make sure the igniter is good
        Check voltage at the coils.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          Air box is very important too!!!

          Comment

            #6
            The technician at the Suzuki dealer checked the coils and i replaced one, but still no change. Sorry what do you mean by mechanical advance? I was thinking of taking off my airbox and running K&N filters, will that help?

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by PoppaDre View Post
              The technician at the Suzuki dealer checked the coils and i replaced one, but still no change. Sorry what do you mean by mechanical advance? I was thinking of taking off my airbox and running K&N filters, will that help?
              No, just create more problems.

              Point 1, the wrench monkeys at a dealership have about a 1% chance of knowing their nose from a coil on these old bikes. If they can't hook it to a computer to tell them what's wrong with it, they probably don't know any more than you (exception being if they have a guy over 50 back there).

              The mechanical advance is behind the smallish round cover on the lower right (sitting on bike) of the engine.

              Comment

                #8
                Under the seat?

                Comment

                  #9
                  Right side of the engine sitting on the bike.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    How do i check if it moves freely? just touch it?

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Im at work right now, ha believe i or not. Do I need any tools? or can I just see it? Could you post a picture?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        It pivots on springs. Just turn the crank rotor (the thing on the end that is attached to the crank) and it should move freely under spring load about fifteen degrees clockwise.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          You say your bike is hard to start. I presume that means when cold, based on use of 'choke'.

                          Once you do get it running, does it start better when it's warm?

                          If so, the solution is very simple. Adjust your valves.

                          Oh, and when you do get it running right, be careful trying to get that front wheel up.




                          This came out of my son's 650. He insists that he wasn't racing and hadn't just dropped the clutch.

                          .
                          Last edited by Steve; 07-24-2009, 11:03 AM.
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                          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                          Family Portrait
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                          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Steve View Post
                            You say your bike is hard to start. I presume that means when cold, based on use of 'choke'.

                            Once you do get it running, does it start better when it's warm?

                            If so, the solution is very simple. Adjust your valves.

                            .
                            THis is true. If I don't use choke it is much easier to start then if i try using choke, (choke wont start at all) It seems to flood it, Thats why i think it is not enough spark. But if you could send it to me andreisposi@gmail.com that woudl be helpful, thanks

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