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Points & Timing - Reposted

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    Points & Timing - Reposted

    Zero responses first time around!

    After solving the problem with a leaking float bowl vent on the '78 GS750C, I took on the points and timing. I was not able to complete the procedure in the manual for setting points. I was attempting to use an ohmmeter (don't have a conductivity meter) and maybe this was the problem. In any case I moved the plate approximately back to approximately its original position, hooked up a timing light and set the timing for 1&4 and 2&3 as per manual procedure.

    So, my question is: with the timing set to specs, do I not need to worry about setting the points?

    I also tried to adjust the idle screws for max rpm. Surprisingly, turing the screws in or out did not seem to affect the idle speed much for any of the four carbs. Me thinks this is not normal. Where should I start my search for the problem? The bike starts easily, idles fine once warm, but bogs badly when the throttle is opened. I hear a faint backfire when I ride slowly through the neighborhood.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    #2
    Setting point gap is very important.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Point gap comes first, before you set the timing

      So you need to start over with gap on both sets of points, set 1-4, set 2-3

      You should put a timing light on it to confirm the timing and the advance

      As for your carbs, what are the settings on your fuel screws and air screws?

      It sounds lean

      You have VM carbs, did you read the CV pages instead?

      What's your set up? Pipes? Pods? Need to know
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #4
        You set the point gaps, then the plates

        Reset the gaps and adjust the plates to get it timed

        Then confirm advance with timing light

        As for your carbs, not enough info

        Header?
        Pods?
        Fuel screw setting?
        Air screw setting?
        Boot condition?
        Cleaned?
        O rings?
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          Stock Everything

          The '78 GS750C is box stock:

          Stock airbox
          Stock exhaust
          Air screw: 1 1/4 out
          Fuel screw: 1 turn out
          Boots in excellent condition
          O-rings new
          Everything properly dipped and cleaned
          New parts in carbs
          Valves adjusted and checked again

          I'll go back and try the point setting again. Is it not possible to set the points with a feeler gauge?

          Comment


            #6
            That's how I always did it.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

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