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T# Mark for valve adjustment

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    T# Mark for valve adjustment

    The manual says rotate the crank so the T#-Mark on the signalplate aligns with the other mark.WHAT OTHER MARK,Do they mean the tip of
    the 1-4 pick up coil?

    #2
    Sounds like you have a bogus manual, look at the Suzuki one online.
    You turn the crank until the cams line up as pictured.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

    Comment


      #3
      There are nothes at the end of the camshafts. They will be pointed at each other or away from each other.
      I don't uses this. I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
        There are nothes at the end of the camshafts. They will be pointed at each other or away from each other.
        I don't uses this. I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time.
        Depends on what motor youre talking about. The 8valvers dont have notches that you line up...the 16's do...

        Comment


          #5
          Kid, I use the same method as Chef: " I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time." , the base of the lobe.
          Would this not work for the 16 valve engines as well?

          Eric

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 67fire View Post
            Kid, I use the same method as Chef: " I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time." , the base of the lobe.
            Would this not work for the 16 valve engines as well?

            Eric
            I have a sixteen valve.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Not sure if there is really any difference, but what bike are you working on?

              This is yet another example of why it is nice to put your bike in your signature line.

              However, this is what you will typically see:


              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
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              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 67fire View Post
                Kid, I use the same method as Chef: " I point each cam lobe opposite the valve and do one at a time." , the base of the lobe.
                Would this not work for the 16 valve engines as well?

                Eric
                ACtually, according to Suzuki, thats the incorrect method of adjustment. Its also NOT how Chef is doing his.

                On the 16v motors, there is a notch at the end of each cam (incidently only on the right side...) To adjust exhaust 1,2,4 and intake 3 you face the notches away from eachother...to do intake 1,2,4 and exhaust 3 you face them in toward eachother...

                According to Suzuki, on an 8v motor, you spin the cam untill the lobes on the side of the bike you are working on are one up and one flat. This prevents the adjacent lobe from pushing on the adjacent valve and spring, putting a load on the cam and possibly screwing up your measurments. Doing it your way also makes you have to turn the motor many more times by hand. But, to be honest, ive done it the way you are doing, and then went back and did it by the book..no change in my measurement, at least as far as the feeler gauges could discern.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                  ACtually, according to Suzuki, thats the incorrect method of adjustment. Its also NOT how Chef is doing his.

                  On the 16v motors, there is a notch at the end of each cam (incidently only on the right side...) To adjust exhaust 1,2,4 and intake 3 you face the notches away from eachother...to do intake 1,2,4 and exhaust 3 you face them in toward eachother...

                  According to Suzuki, on an 8v motor, you spin the cam untill the lobes on the side of the bike you are working on are one up and one flat. This prevents the adjacent lobe from pushing on the adjacent valve and spring, putting a load on the cam and possibly screwing up your measurments. Doing it your way also makes you have to turn the motor many more times by hand. But, to be honest, ive done it the way you are doing, and then went back and did it by the book..no change in my measurement, at least as far as the feeler gauges could discern.
                  I don't use the notches. I point each cam lobe away from the valve.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    I don't use the notches. I point each cam lobe away from the valve.
                    Well, then according to the Manual, you're doing it incorrectly...Again, not that it matters, just makes for more turning of the motor. If you do it by the notches, you only have to move the cams two times to do all the valves..

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                      Well, then according to the Manual, you're doing it incorrectly...Again, not that it matters, just makes for more turning of the motor. If you do it by the notches, you only have to move the cams two times to do all the valves..
                      With my longer duration cams some of the valves have little pressure on them using this method.
                      I did use this method with stock cams. I should of been clearer.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i bet chef has a 20 bolt valve cover

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                          i bet chef has a 20 bolt valve cover

                          oooooooops!
                          83 head..
                          24 bolt then!!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                            oooooooops!
                            83 head..
                            24 bolt then!!
                            You peeked!
                            I got rid of that leaky bastage.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              Not sure if there is really any difference, but what bike are you working on?

                              This is yet another example of why it is nice to put your bike in your signature line.

                              However, this is what you will typically see:


                              .
                              Tompasio,

                              Steve is answering your question, while the others are talking to each other
                              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                              2007 DRz 400S
                              1999 ATK 490ES
                              1994 DR 350SES

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