Stator wires overheating

[willie]

I've finished installing the secondary trans, drive hub, brake pads, fork seals and front tire on my GS1100G in anticipation of attending the rally in WV. I started it for the 1st time since buying it this past Spring and noticed the 3 wires coming from the stator are getting hot. So is the regulator/rectifier. I cleaned every connection before starting it AND added an additional ground wire to the (-) battery terminal. I'm hoping that the warm wires are due to a low battery charge so I've got the battery on a charger now. What else could it be or should I be checking? I don't have access to my multimeter at this time.
I WANT to make it to the rally.
Willie

[bwringer]

Are the three stator connections all black and charred and gross?

I always install spade connectors or solder the wires.

However, some heat is fairly normal, especially if it's heavily loaded recharging the battery.

I'd check the connections and put the battery on a trickle charger tonight.

[posplayr]

Are the three stator connections all black and charred and gross?

I always install spade connectors or solder the wires.

However, some heat is fairly normal, especially if it's heavily loaded recharging the battery.

I'd check the connections and put the battery on a trickle charger tonight.

Yep sounds like none of the connectors were changed.

[willie]

Thanks! The wires still look good w/no discoloration at all. I didn't replace the connectors, yet, but did clean them with 600 grit paper. I've got the battery on a Battery Tender now and will reinstall and check it again tomorrow.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and, IMO, there's alot of excess wiring associated with the charging system. This surprises me based upon manufacturing cost considerations. I'd expect all wires to take the shortest path possible and use the least amount of connectors that they could get by with.
Anyway, IF I had more time I'd trace the charging circuit and remove any extra wiring and connectors. That'll have to wait till I have more free time and lousy weather.
Thanks again,
Willie
PS
I'll pick up some spade connectors in the AM and swap them out.

[Redman]

Hello again Willie,

I would say that after battery is charged, run it again and see if wires heat up again. More specifically, try to determine if it is the wires them selves heating up all along thier length or if its the connections that are heating up more than the wires (was in my case, I think it was where the wires connected to the connectors, not where the connectors conntected to other connector, so it didnt matter how much I tried to clean the connectors). If its the connectors well, then can focus your attention there. If you are in a hurry you can cut off the connectors and use wire nuts (little grey or blue ones).

Other comment: My expereince has been that if the wire/connectors have been overheating that the wire gets brittle (not ductile) over time and then if try to use crimp on connectors then the crimp isnt reliable. But you say the wire isnt discolored so maybe okay. I say if wires are discolored dark then they are also brittle and I would suggest wirenuts and black tape or solder them and black tape (but solder connections make it hard for future troubleshooting/testing).

GK for sale and off on another project I see.

.

[Redman]

Extra wireing is the one stator leg that goes up thru the wiring harnes up to where there used to be an extrac contact on the headlight switch and then back down thru the wiring harness to the R/R. THose connections are close to each other, so is easy to rewire so that stator leg goes straight to the R/R (and just abandon the two wires in the harness), eliminates the current from having to go thru extra length of wire and a few extra connectors.

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[posplayr]

Thanks! The wires still look good w/no discoloration at all. I didn't replace the connectors, yet, but did clean them with 600 grit paper. I've got the battery on a Battery Tender now and will reinstall and check it again tomorrow.
I was just looking at the wiring diagram and, IMO, there's alot of excess wiring associated with the charging system. This surprises me based upon manufacturing cost considerations. I'd expect all wires to take the shortest path possible and use the least amount of connectors that they could get by with.
Anyway, IF I had more time I'd trace the charging circuit and remove any extra wiring and connectors. That'll have to wait till I have more free time and lousy weather.
Thanks again,
Willie
PS
I'll pick up some spade connectors in the AM and swap them out.

Willie,
Just to convince yourself try to measure the resistance across through one of your connectors. From my experience the corrosion in the crimps can be the worst and cleaning the contacts all you wont will not help. Cut them off and replace.

[willie]

More specifically, try to determine if it is the wires them selves heating up all along thier length or if its the connections that are heating up more than the wires (was in my case, I think it was where the wires connected to the connectors, not where the connectors conntected to other connector, so it didnt matter how much I tried to clean the connectors). GK for sale and off on another project I see..

EXCELLENT point there, good buddy! If I remember correctly, for once, the warmest place was on either side of the connectors and one wire was warmer than the other 2. If I could, I'd replace the bullets with solder. I'll check it again in the AM with a charged battery. Its also possible that the battery is on is last legs. I know the importance of a good battery.
This project bike turned into an unexpected money pit. I mentioned all the parts I've replaced since buying it. In its defense though, I'm amazed at how smooth and quite the engine is. I'm looking forward to installing a coil relay even though it runs like a top now.
As to putting the GK on the block....I considered it with the idea of making the G into my tourer by installing a small fairing, a rack and removable soft bags. However, the more I ride it, the more I like it.
I looked at your album before posting. The drive hub on my GK looked just like your's. The drive hub on the G was FAR worse. Incredible!
Ride safe,
Willie

[willie]

THose connections are close to each other, so is easy to rewire so that stator leg goes straight to the R/R (and just abandon the two wires in the harness), eliminates the current from having to go thru extra length of wire and a few extra connectors..

THAT'S what I'm talkin about! I'll take a good look at the 1100 manual tomorrow (vs the 1000 manual I have here at home) and see where I can connect thats closer to the r/r. My gut feeling is that the wire returns as a different color than it leaves the stator as. And, if I'm not mistaken, it doesn't connect to anything else along its trip to the headlight and back.
Willie