83 GS1100G Brake Pad Removal

[Guest]

I was reading the manual and it talks as though the pads can be removed without disassembly of the caliper.
Is that true?
The pads seem to have a lip on them that seat in the caliper and I cannot see how to remove them without dis-assembly.

Thanks

[lurch12_2000]

I was reading the manual and it talks as though the pads can be removed without disassembly of the caliper.
Is that true?
The pads seem to have a lip on them that seat in the caliper and I cannot see how to remove them without dis-assembly.

Thanks

Rear pads can be removed without caliper removal by removing the plastic view/dust cover if still there, then the cotter pins and sliding the 2 placement rods out. Be careful and put your hand over the tension springs as they may fly out when the holding rods are removed. You'll need a decent needle nose pliers for this. I spent "time" searching my garage floor for those before. Front pads require unmounting the caliper ( 2 bolts) and lifting it away from the disc to pop off the pads. Neither way requires what I call "caliper disassembly".

[Odinist]

Yeah, changing the brake pads on these things is cake. The "hardest" is the front ones, but like lurch said, you don't have to actually disassemble the calipers, just have to removed them from the disc. =)

[lurch12_2000]

NOTE: when removing pads or caliper, I usually insert a small block of wood that fits between the 2 pistons. If you have kids or are easily distracted and leave the bike alone for any time, someone may "accidently" squeeze the front brake lever or step on the rear brake pedal while you're away and do a "nice" job of blowing out the pistons...then you can get into "caliper disassembly routine"!
I also use a correct size c-clamp to slightly compress the pistons to allow the extra space needed for the new thicker pads to slide over the disc. You can use a large screwdriver too, but protect the piston surface with something to prevent any surface marring.

[Steve]

NOTE: when removing pads or caliper, I usually insert a small block of wood that fits between the 2 pistons. If you have kids or are easily distracted and leave the bike alone for any time, someone may "accidently" squeeze the front brake lever or step on the rear brake pedal while you're away and do a "nice" job of blowing out the pistons...then you can get into "caliper disassembly routine"!

Even then, it won't require caliper disasembly. Merely cleaning the piston, wiping the o-ring in the cylinder bore, lubing with fresh brake fluid and putting it back in usually works. In fact, that is what I usually do, to prevent pushing a dirty piston back through the o-rings. Yeah, you are going to lose all the fluid and will have to bleed the brake system, but I was going to do a fluid change anyway, so it's not really anything more. I would rather think that pushing a clean piston back in actually saves me time in the long run, because I don't have to worry about the caliper o-rings.

.

[lurch12_2000]

Even then, it won't require caliper disasembly. Merely cleaning the piston, wiping the o-ring in the cylinder bore, lubing with fresh brake fluid and putting it back in usually works. In fact, that is what I usually do, to prevent pushing a dirty piston back through the o-rings. Yeah, you are going to lose all the fluid and will have to bleed the brake system, but I was going to do a fluid change anyway, so it's not really anything more. I would rather think that pushing a clean piston back in actually saves me time in the long run, because I don't have to worry about the caliper o-rings.

.

OK, OK....I stand corrected...it will be a "bigger and more time consuming job"...but you're right about making sure the pistons do move freely. Hate to wear out the new pads prematurely.