Question on Regulator Output Wiring

[propflux01]

Well, Suzi's stator took a dump last week, and while waiting for parts, I did some research into the newer ideas for regulators, specifically liking the MOSFET regulators. I am going to replace my Honda SH532-12 R/R with an FH008EB MOSFET type regulator, hoping this will increase the life of the replacement stator I am waiting on. While I was redoing connections and such, I noticed my sense wire voltage was .5v lower than battery (see this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...62#post1053962 ). So while looking for fixes on this, I looked at the GK's wiring diagram and saw that the REGulators output wire was connected to a red wire that went into the harness of the bike. This wire branches to a 'T', one leg of this 'T' going to the heavy battery wire part of the solenoid terminal, the other leg going to the Ign switch, then to the fuse box, then, of course to the bikes electricals. The problem is, that the wire from the REG output to the Solenoid takes a rather long path to get to the battery, having to go though the 'T' connectors and such. What I wanted to do was to wire the REG output wire directly to the Battery part of the Solenoid (essentially connecting it straight to the battery). What I was wondering, was do I need an inline fuse on this wire? Since one original leg of the 'T' went to the solenoid/battery from the REG without a fuse anyway ( the other leg, going to the fuse box), would putting an inline fuse be just a waste of time?

[posplayr]

The simple answer is that there should be a fuse between the battery and the harness as if you have a short the battery can supply plenty of current.

The more complicated answer is if you end up with two fuses in parallel between the battery and the harness then you are over fused (allow too much current). Generally the main fuse is 15 amps. If you put two of them in then you could have 30 amps capacity and you can start to melt wires as the guages will not support that much current.

I might off this recommendation, it is not so much the wire and the length of wire that is causing any voltage drops, but rather the connections that get corroded (I thinking mainly of the crimps). If you can get the corrections squared away, you will likely be good to go. The one exception of this that comes to mind is the stator wire that runs through the headlamp switch. That is not necessary and has more wire and connections than I feel comfortable with and would recommend removing that.

Further to the above discussion, make sure the voltage drops at 5000 rpm are less than 0.25V ; you might need to clean out your fuse box (use navel jelly on the brass contacts to ) If not consider a modification to replace the primary 15Amp fuse with a separate in-line one but don't use both in parallel.

Pos

[propflux01]

OK, but what I do not understand is, as currently wired (from factory) if the main fuse blew for some reason and that leg of the 'T' was interrupted, the other leg of the 'T' would still be connected directly to the battery (at the solenoid, of course) BTW, the stator wires are directly hooked to the REG, as the harness was bypassed via stator papers years ago. I don't think mine was ever connected through the headlight that I can remember.

As for the fuse box, mine is the sealed type, using blade fuses. thee is no way I can see to get into it without destroying it. I tried to clean the contacts and fuses as best I could.

[posplayr]

Not sure how to answer your question other than to have you read this thread. There is a simplified schematic of GS charging systems. It explains the primary current flows as designed by Suzuki with suggested modifications for improvement.

I'm not exactly familiar with the GK model and the battery connect at the solenoid, but the R/R output does split and one path goes to the battery and the other to the electrical.

The system has two different powersources,

when engine is off: the battery is the source,
when running the Stator is the power source.

You would think that either way you have protection. However, after having looked at several schematics, I cant say I have any confidence in Suzuki engineers that designed the electical to have protected any eventuality.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139115

[propflux01]

Thank you for the links. After reading the rather "heated' posting on Grounds, I understand what was being said with one exception. Posplayr said:
"Next is the stator loops which are as I described above, current flows from the stator to the R/R(+) out to the fuse box, through the loads, and then returns back to the R/R (-) (NOT THE BATTERY) by either a frame ground path of a direct wired path to what amounts to a single point ground at the R/R (-)...."

If this is true, then why does my REG output go to a 'T', with one leg running to the ignition switch, fuse box, and the other leg running Directly to the battery? Seems The electricity will flow to both areas, not just the fuse box..

I plan on buying a FH008ba regulator which is the same type as the F012aa, but with 45amp instead of 50amp load capability. However, your (GS1100GK's) wiring is different than mine, my solenoid is located up and to the rear, behind the regulator, not below it like the pics show.

this was why I wanted to mount the REG output wire directly to the solenoid, just to shorten the length of wiring used.

[propflux01]

It's that different? Huh. Another member said his 1984 GS1100GK had a much larger r/r than my 1982.

The starter solenoid won't be engaged during running, when the charging system is outputting, so the terminal should act just like junction. But you have to be CERTAIN to connect to the battery (+) side of the solenoid.

Yes, and oddly enough, that is where the other leg of the 'T' goes to. the solenoid junction, and, of course, the same junction the big POS battery cable. So in a sense, its a direct connection to battery. All I was trying to do was eliminate the 'T', and it's corresponding connectors. Like I said, I have a .5v drop somewhere, and cannot figure where it is coming from.

If you use the proper size wire, the length won't matter. The number of connectors and small wires in the loop are more of a problem, and folks loosely refer to this situation when talking about making as short a connection as possible (meaning, more appropriately, DIRECT)

The proper size wire is what was being used ( I assume) in the stock wiring. Problem is, it's 25 years old...

As for the grounding issue, I chose to run my r/r (-) to one of my frame grounds, which also had a wire from it to my battery (-). I didn't count on the frame as a ground, but allow it, if it "wants" to. More complicated than that, but I'll let the gurus handle that one.

That is the way mine is grounded as well.