THis may have been answered, but I am new, having difficulty...Fuel problem help Plz

[Calvin Blackmore]

Thanks Larry...
I'm still scared...you're talking to someone who once tied up the muffler on her car (it was dragging) with old ekg leads and adhesive tape...Not too much mechanical expertise here!! (gave the mechanic a good laugh and got me home...lol)

gosh did the car survive?

those inside screws are likely impossible to get at with the carbs on the bike

of course the carbs need clenaing badly but being htat I am a lousy lazy lout redneck I would run a few tanks of fuel through it laced with in tank carb cleaner.....

[Rover]

Cleaning and rebuilding the carbs isn't difficult, just time consuming. 4-5 days to be done properly.

Here's the link. The carb cleaning series is on the homepage of this site. It's highly recommended to do it.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

Adding my 2cents .. Be careful when dismantling carbs as to avoid breaking/stripping screws and parts. Be gentle,go slow.Many have done it and most definately a needed chore on these old bikes.

[Ohioan]

I too have very little mechanical experience. But I'm a do-it-myself kind of guy. It's not really that bad. The most difficult part of cleaning the carbs is getting them off the bike.

The carb cleaning guide on this website is great. Just print it off, and follow the pictures. Do one carb at a time. (tear down, clean, and rebuild) then repeat on the other three carbs.

Then, synching the carbs starts a whole different battle. (for me at least)

oh yeah, I forgot about the screws. They're a PITA to get out of the stupid carbs. I invested in a impact driver. Works great! It's amazing.

[lili]

more info please

gosh did the car survive?

those inside screws are likely impossible to get at with the carbs on the bike
Would run a few tanks of fuel through it laced with in tank carb cleaner.....

Yes the car survived...lol...It was a sight though

Another thing great about being a lady...little fingers...got most of those screws out...just 2 stubborn ones on each side to go....

Where does one get "in tank carb cleaner"??? I am a mechanical novice but does that mean STP fuel system cleaner?? Because I am a chicken...I know ya'll have done it, but I'm still afraid to bite off more than I can chew! I'm just cleaning the bowls and tank and hoping that works!

[lili]

One more question

BTW What does the E stand for in GS550E???

[Calvin Blackmore]

Yes the car survived...lol...It was a sight though

Another thing great about being a lady...little fingers...got most of those screws out...just 2 stubborn ones on each side to go....

Where does one get "in tank carb cleaner"??? I am a mechanical novice but does that mean STP fuel system cleaner?? Because I am a chicken...I know ya'll have done it, but I'm still afraid to bite off more than I can chew! I'm just cleaning the bowls and tank and hoping that works!

tiny manipulative needle giving fingers....

I once used several multi-mode fibre optic cables to hold up a muffler. it too was a sight

Hey guys anyone want to give her a US brand of in tank fuel system\carb cleaner?

I have used laquer thinner and acetone in the past but I am a bad bad man and do not suggest you do so.

best thing would be to get the bowls off or perhaps to fire some aerosol carb cleaner into the fuel line feeding all the carbs. You could then let the stuff soak and redrain the bowls.

Did you remove and clean the tank? Not soing so is only going to allow more filth into the carbs.

[MichaelHoward]

Welcom Lili, E stands for Chain driven, if it was a G it would be shaft drive.

[Larry D]

Yes the car survived...lol...It was a sight though

Another thing great about being a lady...little fingers...got most of those screws out...just 2 stubborn ones on each side to go....

Where does one get "in tank carb cleaner"??? I am a mechanical novice but does that mean STP fuel system cleaner?? Because I am a chicken...I know ya'll have done it, but I'm still afraid to bite off more than I can chew! I'm just cleaning the bowls and tank and hoping that works!

If you're trying to avoid rebuilding the carbs.....First of all, DON'T !! Aside from cleaning the carbs throughly, there are also o-rings between the carbs that need replaced otherwise at some point they will leak. Second, if you're going to take your chances, get some Seafoam. It can be found at most auto parts stores and WallyWorld. Put a couple splashes in the tank and ride. It will clean up the fuel system. I use some every other tankfull to keep it clean.....I rebuilt my carbs though......If you don't clean the tank and clean/rebuild the carbs, keep a good eye what comes out of the bowl drains. You're also running a risk of clogging the pilots jets with whatever may be in the system, in which case, you will have to take them apart anyway. Best to do it right the first time. Just my .02

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html

[lili]

Again thanks!

I hear you on the rebuild...still scared! It's that syncronization (sp?) that's so intimidating...

Bought the "Evapo Rust" today to clean the tank... have cleaned 2 of the 4 bowls and shot cleaner through the little holes in them....(I am sure they have an official name)

Will look for the Seafoam...I do believe I have seen it before!

Thank you all again -- Will keep you UTD on the progress

[lili]

Thanks for the clarification on the E too...I just wondered!

[mike_of_bbg]

When you separate the carbs, just don't touch the throttle adjustment screws and lock nuts (that's what one adjusts with the carb sync). They have spring-loaded clamps so you can just pull them apart, then slip them back together. When you put them back together they'll be sync'd as they were before, just cleaner. So at least you won't screw up anything worse than it started. THAT having been said...

Carb synchronization is something that every bike owner should learn to do. It should be done at least annually (some sync as often as monthly during the season or at every oil change) and after every valve clearance change as well. It's not hard, and buying a $100 tool once sure beats paying a mechanic $100 every time you want it done. It might take you an hour the first time, then about 15-20 minutes each time after that.

I think the hardest part of working on the carbs is wrestling them back in when you remove the rack! Make your BF do that part!

[cyclefvr2]

take the battery box out,and slide the air box back to remove the carbs,and to put them back in , its a must, so you will have enough room in there to slide the carbs in, with out tearing up the air boots, i dont know if its in the service manual, but it should be, it healps soooo much i wont mess with them unless i do this

[lili]

Nothing new to update at this point ;-(

Thanks for the good info... No new work...yes I am a slacker! lol

This past weekend was Family Day for my son's Army Reserve Unit...so no work done that day... Sunday it poured and the bike is covered under an awing type porch with the Quad... so there was no real room to work... BF's garage is full of his other toys..Honda, Harley and a 67 Mercury Cougar (which is definately the car that I've ever had the most fun driving! But that's a topic for a different site! lol)

SO..nothing to report, I'm afraid but will keep you posted.

Again I REALLY appreciate all of the good information and suggestions!
Thank you again!

[lili]

Little progress

Carbs are out, cleaner and back in! (yikes that is a small space and alot of jiggling to accomplish!)

Petrol tank emptied again...Even though we emptied it and got a lot of crap out the first time, this time was even worse! The gas was actually BROWN! (Could it have been the carburator cleaner soaking off the rust??) Anyway, it is now soaking in EvapoRust...
I need to look for the coating stuff... Remembered the name of Kreem, but not the other name, so I am going back to re-read through the thread and then go searching the local stores for it...DOn't really want to do internet..Takes too long... Avoiding the Kreem because most of the gas around here contains ethanol, and so what would be the point if Kreem is soluble in alcohol??

Anyways...getting very itchy to start it up and see the fruits of our labor...

Oh BTW... BF's brother has a 30 something Suburban, he cleaned his gas tank the hard way - (steam jenny- kerosine and nuts and bolts for scouring agents) and now swears by the following to keep the inside in good shape..Marvel Miracle oil and Stabil in every gas up to the proportions on the bottle...Anyone ever hear of that one before?? Says he read it somewhere... Oh he IS a mechanic...

[mike_of_bbg]

Told ya getting the carbs out and back in was the hardest part

Not sure where you live, but Kreem is about the only thing I've seen carried in most motorcycle shops around here. If you have no leaks in your tank, POR-15 seems like the best option. If you have leaks, I think Caswell epoxy is the way to go - but that's definitely going to be an Internet order.