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    THis may have been answered, but I am new, having difficulty...Fuel problem help Plz

    First let me say that I am THRILLED to have found this site! It is a wealth of information and I have learned a lot already.

    I am having fuel problems and have muddled through the Old Q & A on fuel and have a bit of a better idea what my problem is. (But believe me it is still very muddy to me because mechanically I get by but don’t have a lot of knowledge in the area. I am a nurse, so a lot of the technical stuff is way over my head!)

    The story is long, but please bear with me. I can see that there are a lot of people on this site that have the knowledge and experience I need.

    I took the bike to the dealer, but after having it for two weeks, they basically told me it wasn’t worth fixing. Quoted me $477 in labor alone and then told me that the KBB value of the bike was only $500. They said that the carburetors would need to be cleaned and that it probably needed valve work. I believe the first part, but not the second. I don’t think there is anything wrong with the valves, but that is just a gut feeling.

    Here’s the whole story.

    I bought the bike in 2007. (From Craigslist BTW!) It was originally to be a shared bike between me and my son. We had both gotten our licenses that year through PAMSP, but I have since chickened out. I’ve decided I am a better passenger than driver. (I dropped it the first time I took it out and had a he#@ of a time getting it upright again. I did, but it was a challenge.)

    It is a Suzuki 550GSE. It was a great bike. It ran great, except for an occasional starter issue. (It wouldn’t engage on occasion – so if I tapped the housing with a hammer- voila, she fired right up!)

    Anyway the trouble all started this past Spring. My son took it off to college and ran it out of gas. (He didn’t realize that those 4 cylinders are very thirsty!) We put it on reserve. (It required a great deal of oomph! That lever probably had not been switched over in years!) We got it to the gas station, and home, but it had power issues. It dogged it up the mountain. (For those of you from PA, the BlueMountain – Route 309). It just did not have the power it had before. Also the rpms would drop down and it would stall and then be difficult to restart.

    SO we started out with new spark plugs. The old ones were clean and not fouled in anyway. Also, we emptied the tank. It had a great deal of rust in the bottom. We replaced the inline filter and took off the petcock and cleaned the plastic filter screen in gasoline. (It was very dirty ½ way up the pipes.) We put it all back together and it helped somewhat, but the power was still not up to par and it would still stall.

    My BF adjusted the screw on the petcock, (because the gas was not flowing from the tube and he felt it should because it is a gravity fed bike). Is that correct? I was reading something in the petcock thread that said something about needing vacuum from the engine to feed the gasoline. Or Is that just on newer models?
    Anyway that only made matters worse. It didn’t want to start and if it did start, it would quickly stall. At one point, my BF and son were repeatedly trying to start it and it backfired very loudly. (I unfortunately was standing behind it at the time! OUCH!) Now it doesn’t want to kick over at all.

    I ordered a Haynes manual on line and although helpful to a degree, it tells nothing about what the proper setting on the petcock screw should be.

    All advice would be greatly appreciated.

    1) What is the proper setting for the petcock screw?
    2) Should I just replace the petcock all together?
    3) I was reading in the archive about cleaning float chambers and pilot jets (yeah I have no idea what those are, but am sure I will soon find out!) and know I should do that.
    4) The tank looks clean inside when you look down from the top, but it was full of rust. (Guess it was from the bottom….) Guess I should clean the tank. Any suggestions on the most effective way to do that? (I did read about using KREEM after it is clean also!)
    Sooooo long story finally over, to sum it up, can anybody help??? Lol
    Thanks so much for reading and I look forward to your suggestions!

    #2
    Originally posted by lili View Post
    First let me say that I am THRILLED to have found this site! It is a wealth of information and I have learned a lot already.

    I am having fuel problems and have muddled through the Old Q & A on fuel and have a bit of a better idea what my problem is. (But believe me it is still very muddy to me because mechanically I get by but don’t have a lot of knowledge in the area. I am a nurse, so a lot of the technical stuff is way over my head!)

    The story is long, but please bear with me. I can see that there are a lot of people on this site that have the knowledge and experience I need.

    I took the bike to the dealer, but after having it for two weeks, they basically told me it wasn’t worth fixing. Quoted me $477 in labor alone and then told me that the KBB value of the bike was only $500. They said that the carburetors would need to be cleaned and that it probably needed valve work. I believe the first part, but not the second. I don’t think there is anything wrong with the valves, but that is just a gut feeling.

    Here’s the whole story.

    I bought the bike in 2007. (From Craigslist BTW!) It was originally to be a shared bike between me and my son. We had both gotten our licenses that year through PAMSP, but I have since chickened out. I’ve decided I am a better passenger than driver. (I dropped it the first time I took it out and had a he#@ of a time getting it upright again. I did, but it was a challenge.)

    It is a Suzuki 550GSE. It was a great bike. It ran great, except for an occasional starter issue. (It wouldn’t engage on occasion – so if I tapped the housing with a hammer- voila, she fired right up!)

    Anyway the trouble all started this past Spring. My son took it off to college and ran it out of gas. (He didn’t realize that those 4 cylinders are very thirsty!) We put it on reserve. (It required a great deal of oomph! That lever probably had not been switched over in years!) We got it to the gas station, and home, but it had power issues. It dogged it up the mountain. (For those of you from PA, the BlueMountain – Route 309). It just did not have the power it had before. Also the rpms would drop down and it would stall and then be difficult to restart.

    SO we started out with new spark plugs. The old ones were clean and not fouled in anyway. Also, we emptied the tank. It had a great deal of rust in the bottom. We replaced the inline filter and took off the petcock and cleaned the plastic filter screen in gasoline. (It was very dirty ½ way up the pipes.) We put it all back together and it helped somewhat, but the power was still not up to par and it would still stall.

    My BF adjusted the screw on the petcock, (because the gas was not flowing from the tube and he felt it should because it is a gravity fed bike). Is that correct? I was reading something in the petcock thread that said something about needing vacuum from the engine to feed the gasoline. Or Is that just on newer models?
    Anyway that only made matters worse. It didn’t want to start and if it did start, it would quickly stall. At one point, my BF and son were repeatedly trying to start it and it backfired very loudly. (I unfortunately was standing behind it at the time! OUCH!) Now it doesn’t want to kick over at all.

    I ordered a Haynes manual on line and although helpful to a degree, it tells nothing about what the proper setting on the petcock screw should be.

    All advice would be greatly appreciated.

    1) What is the proper setting for the petcock screw?
    2) Should I just replace the petcock all together?
    3) I was reading in the archive about cleaning float chambers and pilot jets (yeah I have no idea what those are, but am sure I will soon find out!) and know I should do that.
    4) The tank looks clean inside when you look down from the top, but it was full of rust. (Guess it was from the bottom….) Guess I should clean the tank. Any suggestions on the most effective way to do that? (I did read about using KREEM after it is clean also!)
    Sooooo long story finally over, to sum it up, can anybody help??? Lol
    Thanks so much for reading and I look forward to your suggestions!

    WOW so many questions

    the carb bowls are likely full of nasty stuff from sucking the reserve portion of the tank----water , rust particles etc.

    you can do a quick and dirty fix by removing the drain plugs and seeing what flows out. It will likley be dirty foul gas.

    Petcock is not gravity fed it requires engine vacuum in order to operate correctly except int he PRI position.

    stay away from dealers good heavens
    the price they quote seems fair though as it is fairly time-intensive dealing with some of these issues.

    does the fuel flow when the petcock is set to PRI?

    you can check this whilst the drain plugs are out. I would place some clean paper towl under the carbs to catch what flows out. That way you can be in awe of the crap inside.

    I would certainly remove the tank and at least was it out with fresh gas. Removing the petcock would allow the rinse fuel to come out more readily.

    Be super careful around gas and while doing any of these things.

    Oh and Welcoem a lot of folks on here have these smaller bikes so collectively there will be enough knowledge to get your bike in fine form.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks so much. I will have to do that to see what comes out! It's a great place to start and I can't wait to be in awe! I was actually stunned when I saw the crap that came out of the tank!

      Comment


        #4
        Lili,

        First, having the model year for your bike is helpful to those of us trying to help you. Go up to the user CP and add it to your signature. (see mine)

        The rust issues in your gas tank have brought you to a new world of cleaning.

        1. There is no proper setting. In general, straight down is on, pointing back is prime and forward is reserve. Your petcock may differ by year
        2. Difficult to know - it's probably just dirty inside and clogged with rust
        3. Yes, yes you will
        4. Cleaning the tank is a must - use the Search function on that. You can chemically clean or use electrolysis. I have used Kreem for many years, some members prefer POR 15 or other treatments

        Your fuel system is, in fact, gravity fed. There is no fuel pump.

        Check BassCliff's site for everything you need to know.



        Keep asking questions and post up pictures of where you are at in the process.


        BTW, if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner that's the ticket for carb cleaning!
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          Greetings and Salutations!!

          Hi Ms. lili,

          Yes, it sounds like a new petcock is in order (click here for petcock info). A new Suzuki petcock will fix you up and you won't have to worry about it for another 20 years. Or you could got the aftermarket (Pingel) route, don't forget the adapter plate for your tank. It also sounds like you need to remove the tank and give it a good cleaning. Because of the dirty tank, the carbs may need cleaning too.

          Yes, many, many shops will not touch a bike more than ten or twelve years old. That's why most of us do our own work. In the "mega-welcome", which you are about to receive, there are a couple of lists that explain all of the components that need to be checked or serviced on these classic bikes. Then please visit my website for information that I've been collecting about the GS bikes and what it takes to keep then properly serviced. I'm glad you found us.

          Oh, one more thing, please confirm the year of your bike and the model, and put it in your sig line. I don't believe there was ever a 550GSE. "G" normally refers to shaft drive models. There's a model chart available from the homepage of The GS Resources.

          OK, without further adieu, here's my "welcome thang"...

          Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

          Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

          Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff
          Last edited by Guest; 07-29-2009, 06:38 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            this si the petcok more or less

            pretty isn't it?

            Comment


              #7
              For a really safe way of cleaning the tank:

              First, rinse it out with a bit of rubbing alcohol and dump. Find this stuff called evapo-rust. It's about $20/gallon (I found it at my local Tractor Supply Co). It's also non-toxic and non-caustic. Let it sit in the tank overnight, and put the tank in different positions each night to cover the whole inside. Do keep an eye on it occasionally though, 'cos if you have a pinhole leak in the tank it will all drain out (ask me how I know ). Put a few layers of plastic wrap under the gas cap to keep that part sealed. You're going to replace the petcock anyway so just leave that on. You can reclaim and re-use the evapo-rust if it hasn't turned black, which it shouldn't just de-rusting one tank.

              If enough "structural rust" is removed that leaks are revealed, you probably want to use Caswell Epoxy to seal the tank. I know a few people who swear by Kreem but from what I've seen it's the least reliable of the tank sealers. POR-15 is probably a better choice if no holes. Caswell is epoxy and much harder when it cures than the others, plus it's really thick going in so you can't really "slosh" it around the tank so well. But those properties also make it the best when the holes are already there.

              Comment


                #8
                Thank you all!

                Awesome information! I knew I hit paydirt when this site came up in my random search for information!
                You are all fantastic! I greatly appreciate the info. I will be trying it all!!
                My BF had briefly mentioned wanting a project bike! lol
                THis one is turning into quite the project!
                Again thank you everyone & keep the info coming! I am burning up the printer as we speak!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Question on petcock

                  Calvin,
                  I can't answer your question on whether the fuel flows with it in prime...Mine is goofy. It has only reserve and fuel...which one would it be?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    it should have pri-on-res.
                    forwards/backwards/straight down.
                    sorry,
                    i didnt read everything so this may have been covered.
                    welcome lili the nurse!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks everyone...

                      Downloaded and I will not sell the GS550 service manual...lots of great info...Have printed all your suggestions and I will let you know!Thank you again!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I gave up on my two tanks and bought a NOS tank for my '78 GS1000E (1980 tank required a new petcock). It would have been a lot cheaper in the long run if I had just gotten it in the beginning. Pretty well trashed a rebuild job on my carbs.Through the experience, I found that tanks previously coated with Kreme are the worst and for one big reason, Alcohol. Alcohol reacts with Kreme, 10% of our gas may be alcohol. The other two tanks are projects for way down the road. Hopefully I'll be able to get way down the road on this bike before having to look at them again. That is, when I get my carbs back from George. You know what I have tied up in the fuel delivery side. When I finish, I could have bought a decent Harley. My friend down the road has 4 GS bikes two 750's, a GS1000, and a GS1000S model. He has a beautiful Harley and only talks about his GS bikes. I have to agree.
                        http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I agree! & Update

                          Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                          He has a beautiful Harley and only talks about his GS bikes. I have to agree.
                          The 3 bikes we ride are a GS, a Honda and a Harley..... Honestly, I hate the Harley! Although it is a very beautiful bike-black cherry custom with lots of chrome (and the newest of the lot), I would prefer either of the 2 metrics anyday!!! I know it is a Sportster...and isn't expected to ride that great...but the da%ned thing rattles my bones!! Every bump goes straight up my spine! BF enjoys that one when he rides one up. (Fine by me!!)

                          Now the good news!!! Making progress! (Thanks to all of you!)

                          Last night readjusted the petcock screw to the original position, and she starts! YEA!!! Took one of our mountains at 60MPH, Rpm'd at 9000 and was only in 3 or 4th gear!! So the power is back!
                          Still having some idle drop off so we are beginning the process of cleaning! Calvin, the emptying the drain plugs revealed YUCK!!
                          We have 2 of the four float basins off and cleaned...They were filled with atleast 1/4 inch of SLUDGE and granules...sticky stuff...The rest is yet to come... Got dark last night...lol
                          Having a heck of a time reaching the inside screws...Need to more research in the service manual (Did I say? "thank you thank you BassCliff for your resources??") to see if we can take the carburators off as a unit to get underneath...(Yes I am chicken! I am avoiding a rebuild on those babies if I can help it...they scare me! LOL Also, I don't know how to rebuild or rejet..guess I could learn, but WOW what a job!)
                          Mike I will be off to tractor supply for evapo-rust! Tank draining and cleaning is next after the float basins are clean...
                          Anyway, thanks again to everyone...it's working!! and it's fun!!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Cleaning and rebuilding the carbs isn't difficult, just time consuming. 4-5 days to be done properly.

                            Here's the link. The carb cleaning series is on the homepage of this site. It's highly recommended to do it.

                            Larry D
                            1980 GS450S
                            1981 GS450S
                            2003 Heritage Softtail

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thanks Larry...
                              I'm still scared...you're talking to someone who once tied up the muffler on her car (it was dragging) with old ekg leads and adhesive tape...Not too much mechanical expertise here!! (gave the mechanic a good laugh and got me home...lol)

                              Comment

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