Odd R/R connections

[Guy]

Going through the wiring on the GS1100g I see it's had the r/r replaced at some point.
It's using a shindengen SH 232-12 8.3 which has the black sense wire as well as the (+), (-) and AC leads.
Now I've come across these units before and have always found the sense wire to be either connected to the 'hot' side of the ignition, or not connected at all, but in this case I find it's grounded with the green wire (it's in the same bullet connector as the green.
No issues with the charging system, it's been working fine. I'm just wondering should I leave it this way or connect it the conventional way. anyone seen this before?

[posplayr]

Going through the wiring on the GS1100g I see it's had the r/r replaced at some point.
It's using a shindengen SH 232-12 8.3 which has the black sense wire as well as the (+), (-) and AC leads.
Now I've come across these units before and have always found the sense wire to be either connected to the 'hot' side of the ignition, or not connected at all, but in this case I find it's grounded with the green wire (it's in the same bullet connector as the green.
No issues with the charging system, it's been working fine. I'm just wondering should I leave it this way or connect it the conventional way. anyone seen this before?

I understand the philosophy, "if it ain't broke don't fix it"; but if what you are saying is true then you are likely living on "borrowed time" anyway and there is not much danger in upsetting the "status quo" as it will happen soon enough anyway.

If the sense wire is grounded then you have a situation where the R/R will not regulate the voltage output at all and you should be overcharging your battery. If you are not overcharging your battery it is because the charging system is on it's last legs anyway.

My recommendation is to connect the sensewire (if you have confirmed which is which) directly to the battery and see if you can pass the stator pages charging system test (actually do the updated version I have posted) from there you can decide if anything needs changing and if not let it alone. If you an pass then do what would be suggested by the tests.

If you pass then find an approiate location for the sense wire on the switched side of the ignition. The output side of a coil relay modification is the best as it is a low impedance switched path to the battery.

[Guy]

Strange thing is, charging system is working fine.
No load stator AC voltage @ 3000 RPM is around 65 VAC per leg.
When the stator's hooked up, the battery's reading 14.2 VDC @ 3000RPM and 13 VDC @ idle.
It hasn't been boiling the battery or blowing bulbs, and the voltages would suggest that it's regulating normally.
So where does that leave me?

[propflux01]

.....So where does that leave me?

That leaves you Lucky.... Install the sensing wire, as it was designed to be installed. If you hook it up and suddenly your charge voltage Lowers, Then it's time to check your connections for corrosion. That might be why your charging is 'normal' right now, as non-hooked senser wired bikes usually overcharge.

[Guy]

Connectons were all good and free of corrosion, and all voltage measurements are within the normal range.
No sign of melted insulation around r/r connections which you'd expect from overcharging.
I'm just curious why it would have been connected like this in the first place.
I'll put the sense wire to the brake switch when the bike's going back together and see how we go.