replaced the regulator rectifier,

[Guiseppi]

because the old one was way over charging and completely boiled the battery,when i put the new one in,and made sure that the grounds had a good connection,started it and the rectifier started getting hot,doing some research on the stator pages,I checked the grounds and all have a good connection,the bike shows a slight charge when idling(13.4 volts)when i give it throttle up to 2000 rpms,it actually drops down to 12.7.could my stator be the problem,with it not charging and the rectifier getting hot?in need of some help,I am feending to go for a ride, this is all on a 1983 gs550 e,thanks,

[rustybronco]

There's no way to short cut the diagnosis of your charging system.

you already have a copy of the stator papers to check the charging system. you need to read this also.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k

[seuadr]

There's no way to short cut the diagnosis of your charging system.

sure there is, just replace everything

[BassCliff]

Hi,

What r/r unit did you install? Was it a "stock" 5 wire unit? Was it a 6 wire unit with a "sense" wire? If the sense wire is not properly connected to a 12v switched supply the regulator will not be able to do it's job properly.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Guiseppi]

Hi,

What r/r unit did you install? Was it a "stock" 5 wire unit? Was it a 6 wire unit with a "sense" wire? If the sense wire is not properly connected to a 12v switched supply the regulator will not be able to do it's job properly.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

it was the stock regulator with 5 wires,

[Guiseppi]

There's no way to short cut the diagnosis of your charging system.

you already have a copy of the stator papers to check the charging system. you need to read this also.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com..._Phase%20A.pdf

am going to do this in a few,thanks for the link,my mind is not working well these days,but i did know that this page existed,,I know that if the grounds are not properly grounded,that they will cause it to get hot,but if the positive does not have a good connection,will it cause the same problem.

[posplayr]

Well I will offer a short cut. Your positive lead between the R/R (+) and the Battery (+) has too much resistance.

I had these exact symptomes due to a loose crimps in the conectors on a Electrosport R/R of the positive lead on the R/R. That caused not only a voltage drop that the stator pages checks would have caught but the R/R gets hot because it can't push the power to the system so it shorts it back to the stator. Keep it up and the stator will fry as well.

The R/R has to be well connected to the load and battery else it will fry itself. The only proper way to confirm you have it correct is teh follow the stator pages and insure that the drops mentioned are low at idle and when charging 5000 RPM

Pos


Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

[Guiseppi]

that is the problemat idle,it shows up to14.0 volts,and when I bring the rpms up,the voltage drops back down to what it should be at idle,almost if it has reversed itself.I am gonna go in ther garage and do some more testing,thanks for the input guys,

[don_gibb6512]

Well I will offer a short cut. Your positive lead between the R/R (+) and the Battery (+) has too much resistance.

I had these exact symptoms due to a loose crimps in the connectors on a Electrosport R/R of the positive lead on the R/R. That caused not only a voltage drop that the stator pages checks would have caught but the R/R gets hot because it can't push the power to the system so it shorts it back to the stator. Keep it up and the stator will fry as well.

The R/R has to be well connected to the load and battery else it will fry itself. The only proper way to confirm you have it correct is teh follow the stator pages and insure that the drops mentioned are low at idle and when charging 5000 RPM

Pos

This is close to what I suspect is my current situation. I'm running both Electrosport stator and reg/rec. I crimped all connectors (off the shelf bullet connectors from Autozone) and I added an inline 10amp fuse between the reg/rec and the battery. Not sure why right now but I did. Bikes been charging good like this for more than a year. Last check was in July. At battery, 13.4v just off idle and 14.5v at 5K rpms. Headlight has been an issue for quite some time (dimmer than it should be) so I tested voltage output at the socket and it was less than 12v. I purchased new sockets specifically designed for H4 bulbs, thinking that was the issue but decided to test charging output again just to be on the safe side. At battery, 12.8v just off idle and very close or same at 5K rpms. Pull Stator papers and start tests. All connectors are still clean and solid EXCEPT the connector from reg/rec RED wire to battery (but before fuse). That's been over heated but still solid. Test diodes of reg/rec and they're all positive in the correct direction and nothing in the opposite direction. Ground connection solid to engine case so I THINK the reg/rec is still good. Stator continuity test is good, resistance between yellow leads is 1ohm - good. AC voltage output test at 5k rpms is only 22-23v. Not good. Test again, same results across all three leads.

Obviously the stator is in the late stages of being fried out but how did this happen? Was it the connector from the reg/rec to the battery since it was over heated? Is it that I put an inline fuse between the reg/rec and the battery? Why would the stator drop voltage output like that?

I'm going to take the stator to a local electrical shop to see if they can re-wind for a decent price or buy a new stator but I don't want to make the same mistake again. I've been down this road before, painfully more than once so I spent a good amount of time with all my connections but obviously I missed or screwed up somewhere.

Thanks and I hope you can help.

Don

EDIT: Just found this reply from Spyug on a similar thread "Have you changed the connectors on the leads from the stator? I tried to clean mine and even when they looked clean I was only getting around 22V on each leg. I cut off the plastic connector and put on fresh spade contacts and instantly 90+V at 5000 rpm. Best half hour and a few bux i ever spent."

That might be the ticket for me. My apologies to Guiseppi for any hijack. No offense intended. Hope my posting is able to help in some way.

[LHO39]

Crimp connectors

Just a little slap at crimp connectors. In my experience they DOWN THE ROAD cause headaches. I try to solder crimp connectors. This is tough if you use connectors with hard plastic covers. But for trouble shooting flaky, marginal and intermittent problems suspect old crimp connectors. I have had trouble on cars, bikes, an electric wood splitter and electronic stuff due to crimpers. They corrode, get dirty and the wires in them come loose. On my GS300 two of the four connectors at the coils the wires just pulled out of the old aftermarket connectors. They were probably installed as a previous "let's try this" repair. Might explain hard starting and random cutouts.

BTW I added (with electrical tape on handlebars) a voltmeter just to persuade myself that my spooky misfires were not a general RR voltage failure. Still not sure however. Voltage gets spiky at high RPM.

[katman]

You also may want to run the positive and negative wires from the reg/rec directly to the battery. That way you can rule out any wiring harness issues. If you have a problem it is the battery, reg/rec or stator.

I also solder all connections. I have had issues with electrosport connectors.

In regards to reg/recs with switch wires run them directly to the battery as well (as per electrosport tech) I know of probles with running it through the harness as there are potential load drops and the reg/rec will see less volts going into the battery than really are and can cook everything.

Just my 2volts worth.

[reddirtrider]

The problem isn't with crimp connectors, it's the crimp tool you're using. Just for your information we were not allowed to solder connectors on anything we produced for military aircraft.

[katman]

The problem isn't with crimp connectors, it's the crimp tool you're using. Just for your information we were not allowed to solder connectors on anything we produced for military aircraft.

Well, you definitely have an opinion about that.

Another problem area is the material the crimp is made off as far as corrosion goes.