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    4-1 questions

    I have a 79 GS 1000 that I'm upgrading to a superbike replica, which is appropriate as it was a Vintage racer

    It has what is supposed to be a Yoshimura race header on it. The header obviously had some air leaks, as it spits and pops on Decel.

    I took it off today and found the sleeve cut on the pipe is really long. So long that it extends almost an inch past the header



    The #3 pipe has been bashed in and poorly repaired. It has a small leak



    So it's off to the welder to close those holes and the ones around the rear bracket.

    My questions are,

    Should there be a gasket where the header and pipe join?

    If so, where do I find the high temp material?

    Anyone ever pulled out the dents? Or pounded them out from the inside?
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

    #2
    Most headers I've seen don't use a gasket.

    I experimented with popping out dents in a header by pressurizing the pipe with compressed air and then heating the dented area with an oxy-acc torch. Was able to work out some of the dents but can't recommend the method per say.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Most headers I've seen don't use a gasket.

      I experimented with popping out dents in a header by pressurizing the pipe with compressed air and then heating the dented area with an oxy-acc torch. Was able to work out some of the dents but can't recommend the method per say.
      Hey BigT!
      Check out this advice from djcrow22 that I received regarding the dents in a system I picked up from rover. He suggests using water, and freezing it to expand the pipe...click on his link in this thread below, and you'll see how he did it. I'm going to try it on mine when I get it!



      Jeff (teet)
      Last edited by Guest; 08-03-2009, 12:38 AM.

      Comment


        #4
        That split is too long; I had to do the same thing recently as I could not get a mid off of the header. I had it rewelded together.

        I have don a repair like your PO did to fill a dent. Not the greatest, but you can use a high heat metalized epoxy filler to fill in some of the rough stuff.

        If you really know what you are doing those dents can be cut out straightened and rewelded in. (I have see pics)

        You might have some success with one of these. Last time I was at HF they were out but I have the next two sizes up. This will not work in the bend.

        I would get those sandblasted as they seem to have alot of scale.

        This stuff is a little tricky to work with, but if you repaint with high heat paint it is better than trying to fill with excess paint. It will fill pin holes but you need to sand blast first to get it clean.






        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by teet View Post
          Hey BigT!
          Check out this advice from djcrow22 that I received regarding the dents in a system I picked up from rover. He suggests using water, and freezing it to expand the pipe...click on his link in this thread below, and you'll see how he did it. I'm going to try it on mine when I get it!



          Jeff (teet)
          I recommend against this method. The ice will expand in all directions, not just in the area where the dent is. You could very well split the pipe wide open. Not worth the risk.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Unless you can plug the pipe , i dont think it works, i tried it on a Yoshi pipe and it did not do squat. I filled the pipe and stood it into a large freezer. Water froze but that was about it. Not sure where to get water tight plugs for the 2 1/2" collector???

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              I recommend against this method. The ice will expand in all directions, not just in the area where the dent is. You could very well split the pipe wide open. Not worth the risk.

              So how did it work so well for him? I think it depends on each individual specific pipe..its overall condition, the amount and placement of dents, the amount of water used, how quickly freezing occurs, etc. I would think if you kept a close eye on it, it would still work. I don't think I'd try it on a $300 pipe...but a $20 pipe..why not?

              I strayed off topic anyway..he was more concerned about the split..rightfully so.

              Jeff (teet)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                That split is too long; I had to do the same thing recently as I could not get a mid off of the header. I had it rewelded together.

                I have don a repair like your PO did to fill a dent. Not the greatest, but you can use a high heat metalized epoxy filler to fill in some of the rough stuff.

                If you really know what you are doing those dents can be cut out straightened and rewelded in. (I have see pics)

                You might have some success with one of these. Last time I was at HF they were out but I have the next two sizes up. This will not work in the bend.

                I would get those sandblasted as they seem to have alot of scale.

                This stuff is a little tricky to work with, but if you repaint with high heat paint it is better than trying to fill with excess paint. It will fill pin holes but you need to sand blast first to get it clean.






                http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37352
                I'm waiting to hear back from Lee550, he has a blast cabinet and is branching into ceramic coating.
                1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                2007 DRz 400S
                1999 ATK 490ES
                1994 DR 350SES

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Big T View Post
                  I'm waiting to hear back from Lee550, he has a blast cabinet and is branching into ceramic coating.
                  I just did a Yoshi pipe with ceamic coating. Some tips:

                  1) Sandblast, then sand out the pits, then sandblast again until you have a uniform surface. The coating is thin and any imperfections or discontinuities on the surface will show through.
                  2) Use a spray gun.
                  3) Put on a coat just good enough to cover thoroughly - don't put on a heavy coat.
                  4) Bake at 500 for 1 hour (or higher if you have the capacity).
                  5) Admire your work. The finished results are amazing.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hi Big T!

                    Funny how I notice this on the forum, but I don't have that cell phone with me, so you must have left me a message.

                    I can most likely just notch out that nasty looking weld, chop out a filler piece from another pipe, and sand the weld smooth. I can fill the notch too. Then off to the blaster here in town and then we'll shoot it with the ceramic coat stuff from columbia coatings. Go on their website and check out the colors. I did a pipe for Kevin and for Hammerhead. Kevin has yet to update me on the durability, but it looked really good when it came out of the oven!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by LeeGS550E View Post
                      Hi Big T!

                      Funny how I notice this on the forum, but I don't have that cell phone with me, so you must have left me a message.

                      I can most likely just notch out that nasty looking weld, chop out a filler piece from another pipe, and sand the weld smooth. I can fill the notch too. Then off to the blaster here in town and then we'll shoot it with the ceramic coat stuff from columbia coatings. Go on their website and check out the colors. I did a pipe for Kevin and for Hammerhead. Kevin has yet to update me on the durability, but it looked really good when it came out of the oven!
                      Lee, Lee, Lee ( Big T paternal sound here)

                      You and your ever changing phone numbers. Yes, it has a VM on it.

                      Call me, I need this done before Shasta!!!!
                      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                      2007 DRz 400S
                      1999 ATK 490ES
                      1994 DR 350SES

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok, but I still don't know what to do about the dent? It looks pretty big?

                        Comment

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