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81 GS850G leaking again

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    81 GS850G leaking again

    I have had the worst luck when it comes to my GS850G, and trying to keep it from leaking. I have replaced the base gasket 3 times and now one of the oval shaped o-rings has failed and oil is pushing out through the gasket. No this o-ring was not OEM. I am planning on tearing the motor apart again. Obviously this will involve replacing the head gasket, base gasket, o-rings for the cam chain tunnel and the head studs where the oil travels.

    So here is my question; when I replace the base gasket, does it go on dry, or should I use Copper Coat or Gasgacinch type compounds? Also I have a multilayer head gasket with very few miles. Could I possibly use the Copper Coat type stuff and re-seal it?

    Just to let you know I put a straight edge to the base and to the cylinders and there was no warping at all. I am at the end of my rope and need all the best input I can get. PLEASE, PLEASE HELP!

    Thanks,
    Scott

    #2
    Sorry to hear the crappy imitation base o-rings collected another victim.

    This time, use OEM gaskets and o-rings and you'll be fine. They cost a little bit more, but they're worth every penny.

    The head gasket will not be reusable -- buy a new one.

    Don't use sealer on the base gasket or the head gasket. (use a VERY thin layer of Hylomar -- NOT RTV silicone -- on any gouges or damaged areas).

    Gaskets all go on dry. The exception is the clutch cover, stator, and valve cover gaskets -- a layer of grease or oil will make these much easier to remove without tearing later on.
    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
    Eat more venison.

    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

    SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

    Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

    Comment


      #3
      Where do I get Hylomar sealant?

      Comment


        #4
        I've seen Hylomar in Harbor Freight, believe it or not, but you should be able to dig it up at any decent auto parts store or order it online. If you have any racing-oriented shoppes nearby (car, snowmobile, motorcycle, etc.) they should be able to point you in the right direction or sell you some.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

        SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
          Sorry to hear the crappy imitation base o-rings collected another victim.

          This time, use OEM gaskets and o-rings and you'll be fine. They cost a little bit more, but they're worth every penny.

          The head gasket will not be reusable -- buy a new one.

          Don't use sealer on the base gasket or the head gasket. (use a VERY thin layer of Hylomar -- NOT RTV silicone -- on any gouges or damaged areas).

          Gaskets all go on dry. The exception is the clutch cover, stator, and valve cover gaskets -- a layer of grease or oil will make these much easier to remove without tearing later on.

          Purely for edumacational purposes... Why the Hylomar instead of RTV? Is it because Hylomar universal never sets, or is it a temperature thing, or what?
          Dogma
          --
          O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

          Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

          --
          '80 GS850 GLT
          '80 GS1000 GT
          '01 ZRX1200R

          How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Dogma View Post
            Purely for edumacational purposes... Why the Hylomar instead of RTV? Is it because Hylomar universal never sets, or is it a temperature thing, or what?

            RTV likes to make little crumblies that break off inside the engine and plug important things (DAMHIK ). It also sets up firm, and between the time it takes to put the block on and torque the head bolts, it will set up permanently and then create problems with the gasket seal.

            Hylomar stays flexible forever and stays in place at high temperatures -- it's basically a super-viscous liquid that's not affected much by chemicals and temperature, and bits of it in the engine won't break off and hurt anything.

            It's great for dinged-up cases because it helps seal imperfect surfaces without interfering at all with the function of the gaskets.
            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
            2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
            2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
            Eat more venison.

            Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

            Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

            SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

            Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

            Comment


              #7
              Is there a difference between Hylomar and Hylomar-Permatex? I did a Google search for Hylomar and got results for both.

              Scott

              Comment


                #8
                Get your surfaces milled at a machine shop.
                No more leaks.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  As much as I like my GS, I won't go through that much trouble or expense. I'll stick a for sale sign on it first.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It doesn't cost that much to do. If you have it apart just do it.
                    I just had the head and cylinder milled, pitted head welded and cleaned, four valves recut and the cylinder honed for $200.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment

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