Blown Front Shock?

[granny_rocket]

I notice my one fork is leaking oil all up and down the shaft.
After doing some research, it looks as if the forks aren't like a standard car shock absorber but have the capability to be filled and refilled???

Can someone futher explain this?
Secondly, the other side (the one that ISN"T leaking) needs a dust seal. How hard would this be for me to replace with just hand tools? im up for a challenge anyway

[MichaelHoward]

Just needs some fork seals dude!! Never done it but heard others here say it is not that bad of a job.

[Anonymous]

Replacing the fork seals is easy.
Remove the front wheel, fender and brakes, loosen the allen head bolt in the underside of the fork, loosen the top cap, loosen the clamps that hold the fork and pull it out.
Remove the cap and the allen bolt and you can take the fork apart.
Remove the clip that holds the fork seal and take the old seal out (it can be stuck!).
New seal in (don't forget the clip!) and reassemble the fork and fill it with the right amount of fork oil.

Don't know what kind of GS you have, but the forks are all pretty much the same.

Here's a picture from a 82 GS850 fork, from Bikebandit:

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic.asp?dept_id=150735

The allen bolt is part #7 in the picture.

[SqDancerLynn1]

It is also necessary to hold the insides of the fork while you remove the allen bolt. Use a long extension and the hex end of a 3/8 drive 5/8 spark plug socket. It is also advisable to put a dab of Locktite on the threads of the allen bolt when reassembling

[Anonymous]

Wouldn't say it's easy, but it is pretty straightforward. That fuggin' damper bolt is the only thing that really makes me swear. :roll:

[focus frenzy]

Wouldn't say it's easy, but it is pretty straightforward. That fuggin' damper bolt is the only thing that really makes me swear. :roll:

LOL!! that is why I have fabricated a special tool just for that one job, it is worth its weight in gold, with it I can change out a fork seal and be back up and riding in under a hour!

[HiSPL]

I use a long 3/8 in drive socket extension (It's longer than 2 feet, but I don't know exactly) to hold the damper in place while undoing the bolt....Works like a charm 8)

[Anonymous]

I replaced my seals recently and they are leaking worse now? Any advice? Can you put the seals in upside down? I noticed a taper on the inside of the seal. Does that effect the "sealage" at all?

The seals are realitively easy. Just need some patience, thats all. They are very striaght forward. Just watch the top bolt (up by the handlebars), they are under pressure and will shoot out of the tube if you aren't careful.

[Anonymous]

It's 19mm = (3/4)

The damper is female like an allen bolt. Its also 19mm wich is = to 3/4. The end of a 5/8 spark plug socket is also 3/4. Flip it around and stick it on an extention long enough to get to the damper. Now you can hold the damper and loosen the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork leg.

Use a flash lite and a can of carb cleaner to get all the sludge out of the internals. Once you've got it all clean and back together you can replace the fluid once a year and be fairly sure it's not getting muddy again.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Wouldn't say it's easy, but it is pretty straightforward. That fuggin' damper bolt is the only thing that really makes me swear. :roll:

LOL!! that is why I have fabricated a special tool just for that one job, it is worth its weight in gold, with it I can change out a fork seal and be back up and riding in under a hour!

Could you describe this special tool please? I have a fair idea from the other guys replies but would still like to hear how you made the tool. I sure would appreciate it! It would work on a '79 GS1000E? Thanks!