Automatic cam tensioner HELP

[Tompasio]

I have checked the valve-clearence,But on the valve cover gasket,and secure the valve cover.Now when i start the engine there is a rattle sound from the cam chain.And if i at idle, turn the knob at the tensioner just a very very little bit clockwise the rattle disappear.I have turned the knob counter clockwise and also the crank,released the knob and it turn automaticlly clockwise when i also turned the crank clockwise,But it still rattles.Have lifted the valve cover again but it doesent help.

[Dogma]

Maybe it's time to do one of these, but I'm not sure. At least, it's not difficult to check for proper function of the tensioner after it is uninstalled. Take it off the motor and try to push the pin back in. It should not move at all unless you also turn the knob counterclockwise. If you back it all the way up and then slowly release it, it should come out smoothly. If it has never been rebuilt, it may be ready to start leaking anyway.

Some people advocate replacing the tensioner with a manual tensioner. Unless the automatic tensioner is damaged, I see no reason to do that.

This started after checking valve clearances?

[Tompasio]

Yes after valve adjustment.

[mike_of_bbg]

You know, when I saw your last thread about the rattle I was going to suggest the cam chain tensioner. But then I figured it wouldn't be likely synchronous with the valve clearance adjust. Mine rattles at about 2500 -> 4500 PRM. Same thing, just put a finger on the wheel and it quiets down. Also gets quieter when the bike gets hot. I'm going to order parts soon to rebuild mine. Check this post from Mr. Bwringer as well about sanding the end of the push rod:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=838049&postcount=4

Another thread suggested that loosening and putting an extra turn on the knob might tighten up that tired old spring and quiet her down. If my #1 carb wasn't begging for a new needle valve and seat anyway I'd probably give that a shot.

BTW, if you want to order the parts from someplace that doesn't let your order "blind" by part numbers, the big o-ring and oil seal can be found in the cam chain fiche for a 1984 GS1100. The small o-ring, the pushrod spring, and of course the gasket were already in the fiche for my model anyway.

[Tompasio]

Thanks for all tips GS:friends.

[Tompasio]

Now i have ordered all new o-rings and oilseal to the tensioner.When it comes i will also tried to give the knob-spring a 1/2 turn more,Maybe this will give the tensioner a little bit extra push.Right now the knob goes forward and backward a little bit at idle.Maybe thats is ok?

[Dogma]

Now i have ordered all new o-rings and oilseal to the tensioner.When it comes i will also tried to give the knob-spring a 1/2 turn more,Maybe this will give the tensioner a little bit extra push.Right now the knob goes forward and backward a little bit at idle.Maybe thats is ok?

Not OK. Once the plunger and plunger advance, they shouldn't come back. This could be caused by the spring being too loose. That would make sense, since your noise goes away when you turn the knob.

[Tompasio]

I have also ordered the spring to the tensioner,You mean that the knob should be still when the engine idles?

[mike_of_bbg]

The knob should be still. The idea behind the tensioner is that the springs and mechanism should allow the plunger to push out against the rear cam chain guide as the chain stretches, but not allow the plunger rod to push back in as the chain tension increases when the engine revs up. If I read correctly, that's the reason for sanding the end of the rod smooth. If it has a notch worn in it, that creates some "slack" and the rod may be able to move back in a tiny bit. My bike's tensioner knob jiggles a bit (say 5 degrees or so) starting at 2500 RPM and smooths out at 4500 RPM, and doesn't turn any further with increased engine speed.

[Larry D]

I rebuilt mine as well. It will all become very clear when you get it apart to put in the new seals.