R/R Question--Something's Up

[ryonker]

Here is what I am going to try based on Nessism's suggestion and posplayers electronic genius;

Negative R/R to the -neg battery terminal. Positive R/R to the +pos battery terminal via a fused line.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139115&highlight=Voltage+Foldback

Read the above post for detailed info. After I read it a couple of times it began to make sense.

Thanks guys!

Rick

[ryonker]

Success! It worked

Here is what I am going to try based on Nessism's suggestion and posplayers electronic genius;

Negative R/R to the -neg battery terminal. Positive R/R to the +pos battery terminal via a fused line.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139115&highlight=Voltage+Foldback

Read the above post for detailed info. After I read it a couple of times it began to make sense.

Thanks guys!

Rick

Fired up the bike this morning with the R/R hooked up as described above. After it warmed up, I checked the voltage at the battery. It went up to 14.5 volts exactly! No higher and it didn't drop back!

Thanks Ed for the idea. Duane, thanks for the R/R! And thanks to all of you for your input.


Rick

[pdqford]

The weird thing is, when I check the voltage at the red wire (where it connects with the R/R) with the bike off, I get pretty much the same voltage as when I check the battery itself. Why is this?

I know what you are saying. I had trouble understanding this principle when I took some automotive electronics courses. When you check the voltage in a circuit that is not flowing any current, the meter reads what is known as OCV (Open Circuit Voltage). Since the circuit is not flowing current, it can't drop any voltage and the meter will read the same as the voltage source. The instant current begins to flow, some voltage will be dropped due to resistance and the meter will read the available voltage.

[posplayr]

I suggest bypassing the factory wiring when hooking up the R/R. Use a fuse in line with the positive output wire and run that direct to the battery. Likewise, run the negative straight to the battery, split off an eyelet and run that to ground. If you do it this way you will have minimal resistance in the circuit and the voltage drop will be minimized.

and run that to FRAME ground as close to the R/R as practical. Also make sure it is the Frame and not the side cover plate which is mounted in rubber.

[ryonker]

and run that to FRAME ground as close to the R/R as practical. Also make sure it is the Frame and not the side cover plate which is mounted in rubber.

So, are you saying to split the negative wire coming from the R/R and run one wire to the neg. Battery and one to the frame ground?

Thanks!

Rick

[pdqford]

and run that to FRAME ground as close to the R/R as practical. Also make sure it is the Frame and not the side cover plate which is mounted in rubber.

Help me out here - (at least on my 1980 GS750ET) the "side cover plate" is mounted in rubber. BUT, the mounting bolt for the side cover plate screws into a nut that is welded to the frame. So an eyelet under the mounting bolt head gives a FRAME ground - right?

[posplayr]

So, are you saying to split the negative wire coming from the R/R and run one wire to the neg. Battery and one to the frame ground?

Thanks!

Rick

Yes.

The way I do that is as shown in the "Ground Loops" link. Take the R/R negative (black) ring lug and put a screw through it to one of the R/R mounting bolts. Use the same bolt to run two separate wires (with ring lugs) one to Battery and one to Frame ground. The detail is shown here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140109

Whoops sorry, this was posted way before I figured out the frame ground return stuff. So add a fourth wire to the bolt for the frame ground

On the right hand side is a slightly darker shade of blue, you see a single point ground connection at the right mounting bolt of the R/R.

There are Four (edited was three) connections at the single point.

1.) Wire to the solenoid ground
2.) Wire to the battery
3.) The R/R black wire ground.
4.) Frame Ground to closed spot.

The GS750EX has NOT had any charging issues since and I'm still running the OEM R/R to this date. If anything this is my daily rider, and although after a few days the battery gets weak it always fires nearly instantly.

[ryonker]

Yes.

The way I do that is as shown in the "Ground Loops" link. Take the R/R negative (black) ring lug and put a screw through it to one of the R/R mounting bolts. Use the same bolt to run two separate wires (with ring lugs) one to Battery and one to Frame ground. The detail is shown here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140109

Whoops sorry, this was posted way before I figured out the frame ground return stuff. So add a fourth wire to the bolt for the frame ground

I didn't run my R/R ground wire to the R/R bolt. I ran it right to the neg battery terminal. Can I just split this wire and run the split to the frame, or do I need to route all the grounds off of the R/R from the bolt?

What is the purpose of running a wire to the solenoid?

Thanks!

Rick

[posplayr]

Help me out here - (at least on my 1980 GS750ET) the "side cover plate" is mounted in rubber. BUT, the mounting bolt for the side cover plate screws into a nut that is welded to the frame. So an eyelet under the mounting bolt head gives a FRAME ground - right?

It would be better to not use one of those rubber grommet mounting locations. A direct bolt to the frame without grommet standoff spacers would be best.

Clean and simple and relatively high tension of a bolt torqued to 15 ft-lbs

[srsupertrap]

Pos could you clarify Battery & R/R ground diagram

Jim,

I got a little lost with the links to the links with diagrams dating back to 2007. Could you tell me if the following Battery & R/R wiring configuration is the latest and greatest. Sorry to cut in but others will benefit too

1) Battery ground is connected directly to frame (Airbox bolt)
2) Honda R/R ground connected to the same bolt.
3) Solenoid ground connected to the same bolt.
4) Two wiring harness grounds connected to the same bolt.

TIA
Steve

[posplayr]

I didn't run my R/R ground wire to the R/R bolt. I ran it right to the neg battery terminal. Can I just split this wire and run the split to the frame, or do I need to route all the grounds off of the R/R from the bolt?

What is the purpose of running a wire to the solenoid?

Thanks!

Rick

The reason for running two separate wires ; one from R/R (-) to the battery and the other from R/R (-) to frame ground is to separate the battery charging current (which is relatively small) from all the rest of the frame ground currents that return through the frame ground to the R/R (-). If your ground are clean then it will not matter much. What I'm offering is a configuration that is least susceptible to bad grounds.

The ground to the solenoid is to keep the solenoid grounded. If you lose the ground through the side plate the solenoid will not seem to work. Any ground would be OK , but I'm following a single point ground strategy at the R/R mounting bolt.

[posplayr]

Jim,

I got a little lost with the links to the links with diagrams dating back to 2007. Could you tell me if the following Battery & R/R wiring configuration is the latest and greatest. Sorry to cut in but others will benefit too

1) Battery ground is connected directly to frame (Airbox bolt)
2) Honda R/R ground connected to the same bolt.
3) Solenoid ground connected to the same bolt.
4) Two wiring harness grounds connected to the same bolt.

TIA
Steve

Steve,
That configuration is pretty much an ideal single point ground configuration; if you can do that then great. Generally all the ground ring lugs will not reach to the same point or they are not located there from the factory. But if you are willing to extend them that would work well.
The only caution is to keep the R/R(-) wire as short as possible; generally less than 6-10 inches.
Jim