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    #16
    Originally posted by rapidray View Post
    If yours is an 83 it has 16 valves & the 850 is an 8 valver & WON'T interchange. Ray.
    thanks ray

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      #17
      yea one cylinder is at like 50 psi i think, i changed my mind and am prolly gonna do rings and valve seals when its too cold to ride everyday. I just dont wanna invest alota dough as i'm savin up for a nuther bike. I was gonna do the 1000 swap but decided against that as well. Is boring gonna be necessary or will honing be fine, i'm assuming if there is ovalization i'm gonna have some issues

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        #18
        the cam chain tool is like gonna be 100 bucks after shipping and tax, what the ef

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          #19
          What cam chain tool?

          I never used one, I've torn apart 3 GS motors

          BTW, why are you focusing on rings?

          More likely, no valve adjustment, burned valves
          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
          2007 DRz 400S
          1999 ATK 490ES
          1994 DR 350SES

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            #20
            I did a valve adjustment last winter. The deal is that the bike consumes oil while running. I did the compression test, then put a dab of oil in the cylinder before performing a second one and from what i remember compression rose atleast a bit on all and substantially on two. I was gonna do valve seals along with the pistons. How did you get the head off of the bike without removing the cam chain? this is on a 77 750 by the way. I"m still having trouble finding a place that sells oem rings
            Last edited by Guest; 09-22-2009, 08:04 PM.

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              #21
              Originally posted by jabberjoe87 View Post
              I did a valve adjustment last winter. The deal is that the bike consumes oil while running. I did the compression test, then put a dab of oil in the cylinder before performing a second one and from what i remember compression rose atleast a bit on all and substantially on two. I was gonna do valve seals along with the pistons. How did you get the head off of the bike without removing the cam chain? this is on a 77 750 by the way. I"m still having trouble finding a place that sells oem rings
              As a late follow-up, 95% of the engines I have worked on in the past have all shown a "slight" increase in compression when introducing oil into the cyl. The really bad ones go up a 20-30 psi.

              I'm thinking that you need a valve job. If you are dirt poor, a lapping can get you by...I've done it and I've seen others do it with good results...it's just not optimal. i.e like knurling the guides instead of replacing them.

              A cyl leak down tester would help you to find exactly where the by-passing is coming from.

              Again, on the cheap, simply break the glaze on the cyl walls with the cyls off so you can properly wash it out and install new rings.

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                #22
                Originally posted by jabberjoe87 View Post
                I did a valve adjustment last winter. The deal is that the bike consumes oil while running. I did the compression test, then put a dab of oil in the cylinder before performing a second one and from what i remember compression rose atleast a bit on all and substantially on two. I was gonna do valve seals along with the pistons. How did you get the head off of the bike without removing the cam chain? this is on a 77 750 by the way. I"m still having trouble finding a place that sells oem rings
                Prologue: Based on knowledge of 1000G engine, other models may vary.

                There is a slit in the middle of the head where the cam chain runs. you tie a wire to it before removing the cams, this stops it from falling into the engine after the cams are removed. You loosen the head, raise it slightly, then hook something like a bent coathanger to the cam chain BELOW the now slightly raised head. Now you can unhook whats holding the cam chain above the head and remove it while what you hooked below the head stops the chain from falling into the engine. Repeat the same method for removing the block.

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