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    Header Dent Removal...?

    I've got a stainless 4:1 Supertrapp Superstreet header for my GS1100E.
    Very pretty pipe, and the price was extremely right.
    But has the customary bottoming dents on the 2 lower tubes, just forward of the collector.
    Not severe, but I'd prefer them gone, if possible.

    Does anybody know of any tricks to remove or push out the dents?

    Or know of any talented shop guys who can?

    .

    #2
    Freezing water has been used by some..also a skilled welder, or body shop should be able to pull them out..

    Check out this..(scroll down a bit on the page...)




    Jeff (teet)

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      #3
      i know a perfect way for you to get rid of the dents in the header......give the exhaust to me! lol just kiddin

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by teet View Post
        Freezing water has been used by some..also a skilled welder, or body shop should be able to pull them out..

        Check out this..(scroll down a bit on the page...)




        Jeff (teet)
        Counter point... http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/...removal-34033/

        Quote from link above...

        Default Re: Exhaust Pipe Dent Removal

        man the freeze method just cost me 250.00 bucks i plugged one end and filled it with water froze it and the dents came right out and it ripped a huge gash in the pipe so now no dents and an unusable pipe that was a hard lesson learned so i would not suggest this to anyone freeze method is not the way
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

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          #5
          Never seen it first hand but I've heard of guys removing dented two stoke dirtbike pipes by somehow sealing the pipe and filling with compressed air and heating the desired area. I also think your SS pipe may be a bit heavier guage steel.
          sigpic

          82 GS850
          78 GS1000
          04 HD Fatboy

          ...............................____
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          ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

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            #6
            I just did this on a pipe I got from rover.. Worked perfectly..

            The problem is ...plugging the pipe, even one end!..big no,no...

            I'll post some pics If I can get e good shot under the bike.

            I wouldn't have attempted it on an expensive pipe, but the one I received was hammered on the bottom, so it was worth a shot. The freeze method popped them out probably 90% to the original size. They were close to 1/2 crushed. I watched it very carefully while it froze, and when it had popped out to my liking I pulled it from the freezer. I would do it again in a heartbeat!

            The problem is, not monitoring it, and filling it up with water, and not giving it natural room to expand..the ends will freeze first allowing controlled expansion. You can't just fill it with water, plug it, and leave it for a week..ugh

            I tested this method first on a piece of tailpipe that I banged in with a hammer, and it worked just as good.... not perfect, but good.

            It worked for me...thats all I can say. If you have any doubt..pay someone else to fix it for you.

            Jeff (teet)

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              #7
              Just one problem with that freeze method.. What are ya gonna do with the food while the pipes in the freezer?
              Sounds like a good winter time project for you frozen tundra folk.
              sigpic

              82 GS850
              78 GS1000
              04 HD Fatboy

              ...............................____
              .................________-|___\____
              ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Octain View Post
                Just one problem with that freeze method.. What are ya gonna do with the food while the pipes in the freezer?
                Sounds like a good winter time project for you frozen tundra folk.
                Ahh..yes...If my wife only know that there was a potentially "greasy, grimy, junky, stupid motorcycle part" in close proximity to "her" food, I wouldn't be here typing this message!

                Jeff (teet)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Top loading freezer in the garage. Tell the wife a deer head is in the freezer and she'll stay out for a while.
                  1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
                  1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

                  Comment


                    #10
                    How about pushing a ball bearing of the correct diameter down the pipe?

                    Or, a large dowel if access is available
                    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                    2007 DRz 400S
                    1999 ATK 490ES
                    1994 DR 350SES

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by teet View Post
                      The problem is, not monitoring it, and filling it up with water, and not giving it natural room to expand..the ends will freeze first allowing controlled expansion. You can't just fill it with water, plug it, and leave it for a week..ugh


                      Jeff (teet)
                      So what did you do to make it work; watch it or plug the ends?

                      I tried it once ; just filling with water and allowing to freeze solid. Nothing happened.

                      Did you somehow promote the ends to freeze which cause the rise in internal pressure as it froze inside?

                      I'm not questioning just wondering what it takes to work.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                        So what did you do to make it work; watch it or plug the ends?

                        I tried it once ; just filling with water and allowing to freeze solid. Nothing happened.

                        Did you somehow promote the ends to freeze which cause the rise in internal pressure as it froze inside?

                        I'm not questioning just wondering what it takes to work.
                        I just watched it...The ends would naturally freeze quicker as they are in contact with the cold air, not insulated by the pipe. I think that plugging the ends would allow for slower freezing, but less room for expansion, thus damage to the pipes..just a guess based on other folks misfortunes.

                        I actually used a chest freezer that we have in our basement that I use for venison. It was empty at the time, so I cranked the setting to the max the night before I put the pipe in, and kept a close eye on it. No plugs on either end of the pipe, I had to position it so that the dented area was always filled with water.

                        I think the colder than usual temperature sped up the freezing process. I didn't just decide to do this on a whim. I read several posts on other forums, websites, and blogs, both pro and con about this method. I was very skeptical about the outcome, but with a watchfull eye it worked very well. If I had purchased a $300 pipe that was all shiny and pretty, I probably wouldn't have tried this, but I got my unknown pipe for $30, so figured it was worth a shot.

                        I cant guarantee anyones results as there are so many inconsistencies with freezers, dents, pipes, etc, and maybe I was just lucky...who knows.

                        Jeff (teet)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm wondering if body shop methods would work -- drill a small hole, attach slide hammer, pull most of the dent out, close the hole with a dot of weld.

                          It wouldn't look perfect by any means, but if you could find someone able to weld stainless, it could be done pretty quickly and cheaply.
                          1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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                          Eat more venison.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by teet View Post
                            I just watched it...The ends would naturally freeze quicker as they are in contact with the cold air, not insulated by the pipe. I think that plugging the ends would allow for slower freezing, but less room for expansion, thus damage to the pipes..just a guess based on other folks misfortunes.

                            I actually used a chest freezer that we have in our basement that I use for venison. It was empty at the time, so I cranked the setting to the max the night before I put the pipe in, and kept a close eye on it. No plugs on either end of the pipe, I had to position it so that the dented area was always filled with water.

                            I think the colder than usual temperature sped up the freezing process. I didn't just decide to do this on a whim. I read several posts on other forums, websites, and blogs, both pro and con about this method. I was very skeptical about the outcome, but with a watchfull eye it worked very well. If I had purchased a $300 pipe that was all shiny and pretty, I probably wouldn't have tried this, but I got my unknown pipe for $30, so figured it was worth a shot.

                            I cant guarantee anyones results as there are so many inconsistencies with freezers, dents, pipes, etc, and maybe I was just lucky...who knows.

                            Jeff (teet)
                            I had a completely empty standup freezer. I filled the pipe with tap water and proped it against the side of the freezer with a bag of ice so it was nearly 70% full of water. I did that at night and checked it in the morn. Frozen solid but no effect on the moderate dents.

                            I did not think to crank up down the thermostat.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                              I'm wondering if body shop methods would work -- drill a small hole, attach slide hammer, pull most of the dent out, close the hole with a dot of weld.

                              It wouldn't look perfect by any means, but if you could find someone able to weld stainless, it could be done pretty quickly and cheaply.
                              Anybody reasonably good with a welder can have at it. I have seen pics of pieces literally cut out and replaced to look like nothing ever happened. The freeze technique if I could get it to work would be the easiest for me.

                              There are several different techniques including compressed air and some places do dent repair commercially. Unfortunately the one I found specifically did not do 4 cycles.

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