You mean AC voltage and Left Hand Switch?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostAC voltage and Right Hand switch?????
You mean AC voltage and Left Hand Switch?Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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propflux01
Originally posted by posplayr View PostSo the R/R (+) to Battery (+) path is not fused? I know I have seen an amazing amount of variation year to year and model to model even in the same year, but are you sure the schematic shows it that way?
This one shows a fuse on the battery leg of the "T".
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...982_wiring.jpg
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostThis out and back silliness confuses me, it doesn't seem to serve any purpose other than to add some resistance load due to wire length. Is this good?Originally posted by Nessism View PostWhat good would AC voltage do at the LH/RH or any switch for that matter? At any rate, it's the RH side and as stated, it just loops back and travels back to the R/R. Very strange to my uninformed mind.
Back in the days when the bikes had operating headlight switches, they ran that loop from the stator to the headlight switch, then back down to the r/r. There were two separate circuits connectd to the headlight switch. One of them switched DC power from the fuse to the headlight. The other one switched AC power from the third leg of the stator. This prevented the r/r from working so hard when the headlight was turned off, as the third leg was turned off at the same time.
To keep the wiring harnesses somewhat universal between the various markets, there was a connector along the way. All of the ones I have seen were under the gas tank, posplayr says his were in the headlight bucket. Either way, it was a 9-pin (or so) connector. When there was a headlight switch, the harness that plugged into that connector split to its various locations, one of them directed the stator wire to the left handgrip, then brought the switched wire back to the 9-pin connector. When they discontinued the headlight switch (at least in the US market), they did not change the main harness, as it still worked it other markets, they just changed the harness that went to the front. Instead of wires leading to a non-functional switch in the handgrip, there is just a loop of wire that sends it back to the r/r unswitched.
If you look at this diagram that posplayr showed, you can see the loop. Look at the top, just below the engine stop switch and starter button. There is a long black line that is the connector. Toward the right end of that connector you can see the green/white wire coming from the stator, through the connector, then looping over to the red/white wire and back to the r/r.
If you look at this diagram from a '79 850, you can see how it used to be. The stator is still on the bottom, just right of center. Follow the green/white wire to the left and down to the connector, then to the headlight switch. The red/white wire comes out of the headlight switch, through the connector, then back to the r/r. Easy to see when you have color diagrams.
Do ya feel edumacated now?
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by Steve View PostOK, then, let's inform your mind.
Back in the days when the bikes had operating headlight switches, they ran that loop from the stator to the headlight switch, then back down to the r/r. There were two separate circuits connectd to the headlight switch. One of them switched DC power from the fuse to the headlight. The other one switched AC power from the third leg of the stator. This prevented the r/r from working so hard when the headlight was turned off, as the third leg was turned off at the same time.
To keep the wiring harnesses somewhat universal between the various markets, there was a connector along the way. All of the ones I have seen were under the gas tank, posplayr says his were in the headlight bucket. Either way, it was a 9-pin (or so) connector. When there was a headlight switch, the harness that plugged into that connector split to its various locations, one of them directed the stator wire to the left handgrip, then brought the switched wire back to the 9-pin connector. When they discontinued the headlight switch (at least in the US market), they did not change the main harness, as it still worked it other markets, they just changed the harness that went to the front. Instead of wires leading to a non-functional switch in the handgrip, there is just a loop of wire that sends it back to the r/r unswitched.
If you look at this diagram that posplayr showed, you can see the loop. Look at the top, just below the engine stop switch and starter button. There is a long black line that is the connector. Toward the right end of that connector you can see the green/white wire coming from the stator, through the connector, then looping over to the red/white wire and back to the r/r.
If you look at this diagram from a '79 850, you can see how it used to be. The stator is still on the bottom, just right of center. Follow the green/white wire to the left and down to the connector, then to the headlight switch. The red/white wire comes out of the headlight switch, through the connector, then back to the r/r. Easy to see when you have color diagrams.
Do ya feel edumacated now?
.
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Originally posted by Steve View PostOK, then, let's inform your mind.
Back in the days when the bikes had operating headlight switches, they ran that loop from the stator to the headlight switch, then back down to the r/r. There were two separate circuits connectd to the headlight switch. One of them switched DC power from the fuse to the headlight. The other one switched AC power from the third leg of the stator. This prevented the r/r from working so hard when the headlight was turned off, as the third leg was turned off at the same time.
To keep the wiring harnesses somewhat universal between the various markets, there was a connector along the way. All of the ones I have seen were under the gas tank, posplayr says his were in the headlight bucket. Either way, it was a 9-pin (or so) connector. When there was a headlight switch, the harness that plugged into that connector split to its various locations, one of them directed the stator wire to the left handgrip, then brought the switched wire back to the 9-pin connector. When they discontinued the headlight switch (at least in the US market), they did not change the main harness, as it still worked it other markets, they just changed the harness that went to the front. Instead of wires leading to a non-functional switch in the handgrip, there is just a loop of wire that sends it back to the r/r unswitched.
If you look at this diagram that posplayr showed, you can see the loop. Look at the top, just below the engine stop switch and starter button. There is a long black line that is the connector. Toward the right end of that connector you can see the green/white wire coming from the stator, through the connector, then looping over to the red/white wire and back to the r/r.
If you look at this diagram from a '79 850, you can see how it used to be. The stator is still on the bottom, just right of center. Follow the green/white wire to the left and down to the connector, then to the headlight switch. The red/white wire comes out of the headlight switch, through the connector, then back to the r/r. Easy to see when you have color diagrams.
Do ya feel edumacated now?
.
Sorry to be such a stickler, but as you know I had used the freeed up loop back wires for controlling a coil relay mod. If anybody was following that they would not find it under the tank for E's but rather in the headlamp bucket.
Jim
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35607
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Steve View PostOK, then, let's inform your mind.
Back in the days when the bikes had operating headlight switches.....
Do ya feel edumacated now?
.
As an aside, I had to open the harness...again, so I stripped out those W/G and W/R wires out. Hadn't thought about using those leads for the coil relay mod. Hope I don't regret my decision.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by posplayr View Post... but as you know I had used the freeed up loop back wires for controlling a coil relay mod. If anybody was following that they would not find it under the tank for E's but rather in the headlamp bucket.
Originally posted by Nessism View PostThanks Steve. I've heard about the circuit compensating for the lack of headlamp load before but your explanation sheds some light on that subject.
It's not very often that I shed new light on a subject, but those that know me will admint that I do use a different filter.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Originally posted by Steve View PostBack in the days when the bikes had operating headlight switches, they ran that loop from the stator to the headlight switch, then back down to the r/r. There were two separate circuits connectd to the headlight switch. One of them switched DC power from the fuse to the headlight. The other one switched AC power from the third leg of the stator. This prevented the r/r from working so hard when the headlight was turned off, as the third leg was turned off at the same time.
To keep the wiring harnesses somewhat universal between the various markets, there was a connector along the way....... When there was a headlight switch, the harness that plugged into that connector split to its various locations, one of them directed the stator wire to the left handgrip, then brought the switched wire back to the 9-pin connector. When they discontinued the headlight switch (at least in the US market), they did not change the main harness, as it still worked it other markets, they just changed the harness that went to the front. Instead of wires leading to a non-functional switch in the handgrip, there is just a loop of wire that sends it back to the r/r unswitched.
i have come to the same conclusion after chasing my tail for a while - mainly because i kept getting confusing information on the subject - until i realized that non usa markets had a working headlight switch on all gs/gsx models irrespective of the model year (so, well past the 1980 when the law changed in the usa)GS850GT
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Originally posted by psyguy View Postwonderfully written steve!
One word that has never been used to describe me is "concise".
Fortunately, I have at least been able to use my verbosity to explain things clearly, at times.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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